Second thoughts on selling Super Ikomat

gshybrid

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I was just putting my Super Ikomat up for sale in the classifieds when I realized there was still some film in it. So I walked outside and shot a couple of shots(sunny 16) of the road crew in front of our house. I just got the film back and now now I'm having second thoughts.
I love this camera but it's painfully slow for candid photos. Maybe I just need to forgo the light meter. Do most of you meter your shots or do you just calculate the settings?

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Personally, I try to meter with a meter, whether I am using a camera with a built in meter, or one without, which then requires a hand held meter. I can guess at expsures if I have to, but prefer metering.
 
I use a light meter unless I get really lazy. Some people claim to be more accurate than a light meter, but that's simply not true.

With much practice, you can guess correctly or within a reasonable range most of the time, but if you decide to shoot transparency film, a meeter is the way to go.
 
I guess the super ikomat is what it is.... And that's not a point and shoot. I love the form factor but did Zeiss make a compact folder with say, a coupled viewfinder that can also be used to frame the shot or with a built in meter. Did anyone? I bought this camera to have a portable medium format camera always on the ready but often by the time I get it out of bag and ready to shoot I've missed the shot.
 
did Zeiss make a compact folder with say, a coupled viewfinder that can also be used to frame the shot or with a built in meter. Did anyone?
Fuji did GS645 I owned one for a while, possibly the most unreliable camera I've ever had, good lens nicely compact. I just didn't like defaulted in portrait mode, so I sold it. I often think I should of stuck at it.
 
but did Zeiss make a compact folder with say, a coupled viewfinder that can also be used to frame the shot or with a built in meter. Did anyone?

Well, the Super Ikonta BX has the coupled rangefinder, framing window and a built in meter - the latter uncoupled though.

I bought this camera to have a portable medium format camera always on the ready but often by the time I get it out of bag and ready to shoot I've missed the shot.

Get a Fuji GA645, and get rid of the bag. Not even a tensioned and all-unlocked Nikon F2 on hyperfocal setting will get the shot if you first have to unpack it...
 
Well, the Super Ikonta BX has the coupled rangefinder, framing window and a built in meter - the latter uncoupled though.



Get a Fuji GA645, and get rid of the bag. Not even a tensioned and all-unlocked Nikon F2 on hyperfocal setting will get the shot if you first have to unpack it...

Wow, the BX opens up to 2.8 as well... I'm going to look for one of these. I have a couple of Fuji cameras and I like the lenses and build quality... the GA645 doesn't seem that small though. The "Bag" does slow me down a bit but the Super Ikomat doesn't have strap lugs and most of my time is spent unfolding the parts and checking all the settings. There is a charm to it but I'd like to find a something similar with a few more modern features. The BX might be it.
 
Keep an eye out for an Ikonta IV. It uses the combined rangefinder / viewfinder set up and has the built in lightmeter and the film advance uses auto stop i.e. No red window to watch.

Though I'll agree with Mike that I'm not more accurate than a light meter no one has yet caught me being less accurate :). That said, when shooting outside my normal lighting conditions (early morning early evening) I use a meter.

Lastly, you mention fiddling with the camera to open it check it etc. Get used to closing it up with the focus set at the hyperfocal distance and the shutter (for asa 100) at a 60th and f5.6. With those settings you will usually get a useable negative even if you don't have time for adjustments.

I use both the Mess Ikonta and the III and am quite happy with both of them.
 
I use a light meter unless I get really lazy. Some people claim to be more accurate than a light meter, but that's simply not true.

With much practice, you can guess correctly or within a reasonable range most of the time, but if you decide to shoot transparency film, a meeter is the way to go.

Depends on your definitions. More accurate than blindly following a light meter at all times, yes. More accurate than using a light meter and interpreting the reading, no.

Cheers,

R.
 
You should buy the Voightlander LED meter you can mount it and is quicker than a hand held.

There's nowhere to mount the meter on the Super Ikomat... at least there's no flash shoe. I've been carrying a Sekonic L-208. It came with a shoe mount accessory but I haven't tried it.

Rich, that's good advice about the settings, winding it to a fresh frame also helps, and maybe cocking the shutter....

I think I'm going to look for a later Zeiss folder. For the time being I just renewed the ad for the Super Ikomat in the classifieds. I'll probably keep it if it doesn't sell this round.
 
In a different thread someone mentioned that after an exposure they give the advance knob a turn, just enough to get the number out of the window. The idea works well, never have to wonder whether the frame showing has been exposed or not.
 
yours is a pretty old model by the looks, after 1935 though, out of curiosity what is the serial number? with no shutter button would also make the old girl a bit slower to handle

The serial number on the lens is 1672677

Advancing the film a bit is one of those brilliantly simple solutions that never occurred to me.

I looked at a few BX's on ebay and they all seemed to have issues with the meter. Last week I took a look at a Fuji gf670... beautiful camera but huge by comparison. There's a shop in seattle with quite a few old folders including a couple of super ikontas. I think I'll head up there tomorrow and try and get a feel for the different models.
 
I've been shooting a 1937 Bessa and love it. During regular daylight I can guess exposure pretty close, but otherwise I use a light meter. I shoot at night quite a bit. I only shoot B&W film, which is pretty forgiving. I just love that Bessa. The pre-war uncoated lens gives a look none of my other photo gear can touch. You won't get all THAT much for the camera. Unless you never use it and need money for something else, I'd keep it and rediscover it.


Kent in SD
 
I've been shooting a 1937 Bessa and love it. During regular daylight I can guess exposure pretty close, but otherwise I use a light meter. I shoot at night quite a bit. I only shoot B&W film, which is pretty forgiving. I just love that Bessa. The pre-war uncoated lens gives a look none of my other photo gear can touch. You won't get all THAT much for the camera. Unless you never use it and need money for something else, I'd keep it and rediscover it.


Kent in SD

Of course you're right... I just hate having cameras that I don't use. If it doesn't sell I'll keep it for those days I feel a need to reconnect with the process of shooting... when I'm not in a hurry it is quite satisfying to use.
 
If you're around the U district check out Jim's Cameras, you'll love it. Note of caution. I have no idea who sets the prices or how. While much of their stock is reasonably priced, some things are ridiculously high priced for no discernible reason. I't isn't flim flaming, just weird pricing at times.

Wherever you end up have fun.

P.S. If Glazer' s Camera is still around check them out as well.
 
If you're around the U district check out Jim's Cameras, you'll love it. Note of caution. I have no idea who sets the prices or how. While much of their stock is reasonably priced, some things are ridiculously high priced for no discernible reason. I't isn't flim flaming, just weird pricing at times.

Wherever you end up have fun.

P.S. If Glazer' s Camera is still around check them out as well.

I was planning on going up to Jim's and yes the pricing there is weird... most of the tags are so faded that they must have been set a decade ago.
They know me and my credit cards at Glazer's.
 
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