Sell the M7 - but keep the CV lenses??

[rayfoxlee]

I’m thinking of selling my near mint condition 0.72 M7 for a Fuji X100T or possibly an X Pro -1 – basically, the scanning process is driving me crazy (no, don’t ask – I’ve used Nikon software on my Coolscan V ED and Vuescan and scanned in just about every which way that is available. RAW, TIFFs and at all the usual settings. RAW gives me the best scans, but it is all just so time consuming).

The bit I’m not sure about is whether to sell the CV lenses – 15, 25, 35 Ultron. 75 f2.5 Color Heliar and 90mm Apo Lanthar. I’m hesitating as they might just be useful with an adapter on some digital creation at a later date (or even an XPro-1), but I see quite a lot of varying views about the usefulness of CV MF lenses on digital bodies. I’m never going to be in the position to buy a new digital Leica and even if I were, I’m not convinced that they would do justice to such a camera, nor am I very likely to buy second hand digital.

Any thoughts from the RFF would be welcome!

Thanks

Ray

 

[lawrence]

There's one other option that you might like to consider, which is rather than giving up on film scanning get an Epson V750 or similar that allows you to scan your negatives more quickly since you can scan four times as many negs per load as you can with the Nikon, then use the Nikon to re-scan only the very best ones. This is what I do. I see the Epson as a being bit like a 35mm contact printing frame from my darkroom days and the film scanner as my enlarger. But even then it is still quite time consuming, I have to admit.

 

[f16sunshine]

I like the advice from Lawerence and do similar myself.
Pre-viewing full rolls with a cheap Pakon scanner and then.. picking the best to run through a Coolscan V ed for hi-res scanning.

In any event I would recomend you keep your lenses for now.
The x100 models are all great tools but have thier limits.
You've collected a pretty nice and varied set of focal lengths for a reason.
You may find a reminder of that reason once you begin to use the fixed Focal Length x100T.

Also, Many folks have great luck using ltm and M mount lenses on mirrorless digital models.
You may want to check out a Sony a7 model or Fuji Xt1 or XE2 before jumping to the x100T.
They are in the same price category or a bit less (XE2 is sub $1000) than the X100T and will take all your lenses via an inexpensive adapter.
Cheers!

 

[rayfoxlee]

Thanks, Lawrence, for your suggestion. I was looking at the V750, but more for scanning my 6x6 negas, but I have really managed to get very good results from my old flatbed by going RAW in Vuescan, so have shelved that idea. I just find the thought of stuggling with scanning a 36 exp film now just too tedious!

Ray

 

[rayfoxlee]

I like the advice from Lawerence and do similar myself.
Pre-viewing full rolls with a cheap Pakon scanner and then.. picking the best to run through a Coolscan V ed for hi-res scanning.

In any event I would recomend you keep your lenses for now.
The x100 models are all great tools but have thier limits.
You've collected a pretty nice and varied set of focal lengths for a reason.
You may find a reminder of that reason once you begin to use the fixed Focal Length x100T.

Also, Many folks have great luck using ltm and M mount lenses on mirrorless digital models.
You may want to check out a Sony a7 model or Fuji Xt1 or XE2 before jumping to the x100T.
They are in the same price category or a bit less (XE2 is sub $1000) than the X100T and will take all your lenses via an inexpensive adapter.
Cheers!

Thanks Andy - all sound advice. I also have a Pentax K5 outfit and rather wanted to keep it simple with the Fuji, rather than get myself into another kit - with the inevitable eyeing up of all those lovely Fuji lenses. Yes, I could use the CV lenses on one of the Fuji CSCs, but I'm just not sure about manual focussing on them.

Ray

 

[thegman]

The Pakon scanner is 3000x2000 pixels I think, enough for me, but may not be for you. If it is, then I think it's worth a look before selling the M7.

I've used a couple of adapted lenses, but never the combo you're talking about. I found it a pretty unpleasant experience, your experience might be different though.

 

[gbealnz]

I like the idea of a dual scan system, great advice. (having said that I am YET to buy a scanner, but soon, soon as I can find one suitable).

I'd be selling the CV's before the M7 to be honest, but that's just me. Or try the likes of the used M8 listed today on the Classifieds. Darn good camera, really.

If you go to the X-Pro1, forget the CV's, buy the Fuji primes, hard to beat, and I mean real hard to beat.
Gary

 

[YYV_146]

The 15 and 25 will not be very useful on digital, the 25 might be usable on an X-pro1 or similar APS-C camera, but I won't bet money on it.

The 35, 75 and 90 will work perfectly fine on digital. Get a full frame mirrorless if you want to keep the field of view of these lenses. IMO they are as good a kit for digital as any.

 

[Huss]

Keep the M7 and the 35mm lens, just for that special occasion. Sell the other lenses to fund the digital camera.
You may be frustrated at the moment, but one day you'll kick yourself if you sell the Leica.

 

[tempest68]

Thanks Andy - all sound advice. I also have a Pentax K5 outfit and rather wanted to keep it simple with the Fuji, rather than get myself into another kit - with the inevitable eyeing up of all those lovely Fuji lenses. Yes, I could use the CV lenses on one of the Fuji CSCs, but I'm just not sure about manual focussing on them.

Ray

Consider the X-T1. Watch the Digital Rev video on it: http://youtu.be/8N1-obUC7Ms. If you don't want to watch the entire thing, skip ahead to around 4:40 where Kai starts talking about the EVF. It has enough room for a second little window inside the EVF to make manual focusing a breeze.

For me, I'm torn between the X-T1 that is weather sealed and a dedicated ISO dial vs. the X-E2 that has the EVF on the side just like a rangefinder camera. I'm selling my Leica M-8, and I'm still not sure between some of the extra features of the X-T1 vs. really liking my viewfinder to be on the side instead of the middle.

 

[MCTuomey]

I don't think of an X100T, being fixed lens, as a replacement for an M7 at all. If you want the ease of digital, an X100 is fairly cheap and so may allow you to have both bodies.

If you want to go digital, think about an X-E1 (interchangeable lens and quite inexpensive now) with an adapter to use your nice CV lenses. Since it's APS-C, the VC 15 becomes a handy ~21mm. That way you don'r risk prematurely selling the M7.

 

[MCTuomey]

For me, I'm torn between the X-T1 that is weather sealed and a dedicated ISO dial vs. the X-E2 that has the EVF on the side just like a rangefinder camera. I'm selling my Leica M-8, and I'm still not sure between some of the extra features of the X-T1 vs. really liking my viewfinder to be on the side instead of the middle.

It's an easy decision. With the X-T1 you can freely smear nose oil all over its rear LCD. With the X-E2, not. 😉

 

[dogberryjr]

If you're going to sell the M7, then sell the lenses too. Sure, you can adapt them, but Fuji's own lenses for the X line are nothing to sneeze at. Your CV lineup wouldn't be too difficult to rebuild if for some reason you changed your mind later on.

 

[Godfrey]

Scanning is always a slow process. That's one of the reasons I use my 35mm cameras relatively infrequently, and my 6x6 or Polaroid cameras a little more often.

But that didn't seem to be the crux of the question; the question seemed to me to be more, "If I sell off my M7, should I keep the lenses for some unknown future use?"

I have several digital bodies that I can use my M-mount lenses on: Ricoh GXR, Leica M9, Olympus E-PL1/E-M1, and Sony A7. The Olympus bodies do best with their own lens line, the Sony does best with SLR lenses, and the M9 is a bit fussy with shorter focal lengths. Of them, the MOST compatible body for your shorter focal lengths would be the Ricoh, particularly the 15 and 25. The Fuji X series cameras are likely a notch between the M9 and GXR in terms of those lenses, and when there are such nice native lenses available, um, I'd generally go with the native mount.

So you have to decide what it is that suits what you want to do best. I'd suggest going the conservative route: buy what you'd like, sell the M7 if that's what you want to do, and hold off on the lenses until you know better where your photography is going. Remember that all of this stuff, however good or bad, is nearly always available to reacquire and likely at prices not too different from what you can sell it for.

G

 

[VertovSvilova]

If you re-think your film workflow as others have suggested, you might think more about keeping the M7. If you can squeeze in the funds then pick up a used Fuji or other APS-C camera to use alongside the film camera and lenses (like the X-E1/E2 that was suggested and which can use your CV lenses.) And pretty much all the current APS-C cameras are very good despite the brand (most all use the same Sony sensor.) But a downside is that they will be quickly surpassed by the next generation of digital mirrorless and forcing you to consider upgrading, while your M7 will always still be the same great Leica film camera.

Anyway, if you like the output of film, then why not keep on using it. Have we all really gotten that lazy these days? We were doing fine before digital came along. We were all making great images with film and the film workflow. How about thinking in the same mindset that you had before digital and scanning even existed. Did you print every frame on a 36 exposure roll? No, you made a contact sheet. And then you selected out the best frame(s) to print. As others suggested, why not do the same but with a flatbed. You don't need to get the most expensive one, either. What you need is something to proof your film (i.e., a 'contact sheet.') Then either make desired final files (i.e., 'prints') with the Coolscan or send out for drum scans (or Imacon), etc.. This is a 'normal' workflow and it's what I do, too. Nobody printed every frame in the pre-digital era and nobody needs to make large final file scans of every frame today, either.

btw, if one wants to quick proof their film frames then here's a fast way of doing it: http://figitalrevolution.com/2014/10/08/editing-on-the-fly/

 

[xyz3450]

Ray, you say you are 'thinking of selling my near mint condition 0.72 M7 for a Fuji X100T or possibly an X Pro -1'. One potential issue is that the value of digital bodies (no matter how good they are today) falls quite dramatically a few years out. The Leica (film) M bodies, less so. And you say your M7 is near mint.... Because of this are there other options?

 

[Chrisrw]

I am considering a similar issue. I just sold my M5 to another RFF member, missed my Bessa R2, so bought a new one from Stephen (should be here soon). My hope was to be able to still use my CV lenses; 35/2.5 skopar, 50/3.5 Heliar and 75/2.5 on both a film and digital camera. But I've been second guessing putting more money into film gear. The new Sony's and the OMD's have been calling to me. I can get a Sony A6000 body for same as the Bessa R2. I've been frustrated with my work flow and I've been really liking the B&W output of many of these new digitals (Love my Sigma DP2M for that 🙂 )
Thinking of selling all film gear except my OM-1n and going digital for the rest.

 

[j.scooter]

I I've been really liking the B&W output of many of these new digitals (Love my Sigma DP2M for that 🙂 ).

Not all new digitalis are created equally, the black and white output of the Sigma Merrills is rivalled only by the Leica Monochrom. IMO You won't get those kind of results elsewhere, at least not yet.

 

[jsrockit]

I’m thinking of selling my near mint condition 0.72 M7 for a Fuji X100T or possibly an X Pro -1 – basically, the scanning process is driving me crazy (no, don’t ask – I’ve used Nikon software on my Coolscan V ED and Vuescan and scanned in just about every which way that is available. RAW, TIFFs and at all the usual settings. RAW gives me the best scans, but it is all just so time consuming).

The bit I’m not sure about is whether to sell the CV lenses – 15, 25, 35 Ultron. 75 f2.5 Color Heliar and 90mm Apo Lanthar.

Why not sell the M7, buy a M4 / M4-2 / M4-P and a X100s used?

 

[Aaron04]

For what it's worth, an M7 is already close to maximum deprecation, whereas the xpro1 is going to be almost worthless in a couple years.

Save up the scratch to buy a digital if you want it, but you will lose money if you sell the M7 now.

I have an xpro and an M7.