Selling my RF's for a OM?

[PlantedTao]

Jason, I think it is time to seek clarity via the Big Time! 😀

now that is the one response I can 100% agree with!
I think before I do anything, we should sit down and discuss gear over a pint or two 😀
I maybe able to meet on March 20 or 21... I'll let you know.

 

[Doug]

... That Zuiko 1.8 definitely wins the distortion contest for me though!

Incidentally ... how do photographers deal with barrel distortion if wet printing when due to the geometry of the subject material it's going to be obvious in the end result?

Computers and post processing software make it all so easy!

Keith I think you need an easel that grips the paper at the center of each side and stretches it... expose the image and the released paper then returns to rectangular and the barrel distortion is gone. 😀

And my 50mm f/1.8 Zuiko ("Japan" not "Made in Japan") does show noticeable barrel distortion, yet it's otherwise admirable...

 

[pixelatedscraps]

By and large the OM-2 and OM-2n are very, very reliable. Not sure what "a whole bunch of new electrical issues" means ... seems like quite an exaggeration to me. Your experience with two bodies hardly comprises a statistically significant sample.

I suppose I should have made it a bit clearer - the OM-1 is a mechanical camera with a mechanical shutter - the battery is really only required for the light meter to function and has no effect on the shutter at all. It is also a purely manual camera - no AE, no aperture-priority modes, none.

The OM-2 / OM-2n / OM-2sp have a varying amount of automation in them, AE, aperture-priority modes, and use an electronic shutter - and not to mention a rather sophisticated metering system. At the time of its release, it was considered a huge electrical advance on the OM-1 - which apart from borrowing the same baseplate and chassis, was almost completely different internally.

I could go on and on, and of course you can use the OM-2(xx) in purely manual mode as well - but if the battery fails, or one part of the electrics fail - you're pretty much left with a dud camera.

Back to the point (and at the risk of sounding pedantic), I don't think its too far-fetched to say that the OM-2, while being a much more advanced creature than the OM-1, is also a more delicate camera - and one that has to be handled with a bit more care than an OM-1. It still is solidly built, and has that wonderful OM feeling that only started mutating with the OM-10, and if I had the spare cash, I'd definitely get one (I sold my first OM-2 and then lost my second OM-2n) - though that has been pushed back by the desire for an OM-3!

MIR has much more on this in case anyone wants to continue reading.

 

[Dean Cho]

Between the OM-1n and OM-2n, I generally use the OM-2n as it can do everything the OM-1n can plus automatic exposure and TTL flash metering. However, the OM-1n comes into its own in sub freezing weather when batteries tend to fail and cause my OM-2n to lock up until I warm it up a bit. In contrast, the OM-1n works perfectly in really cold temperatures. The OM-1n also is my camera of choice in stormy weather (using my old silvernose lenses that I don't mind getting drenched). Given the relatively inexpensive prices, it makes sense to have one of each body.

 

[John Hermanson]

There was never any fix for the 2S battery drain issue (aside from a lowering of it when used with T flashes, and that required installation of a tiny sub-circuit). Just as the 2S was being accepted by dealers and the public, it was discontinued. Olympus never upgraded the board. :bang: For longest battery life, use silver oxide batteries only (357, SR44W, G13, MS76, KS76) and make sure bottom cover screws are tight. There were 5 different 50mm 1.8s made. The best performer seems to be the last multicoated version which has "made in Japan" on the name ring (not just "Japan"). Of the 50mm f1.4, look for multicoated version above 1,100,000 serial number. John

 

[PlantedTao]

There was never any fix for the 2S battery drain issue (aside from a lowering of it when used with T flashes, and that required installation of a tiny sub-circuit). Just as the 2S was being accepted by dealers and the public, it was discontinued. Olympus never upgraded the board. :bang: For longest battery life, use silver oxide batteries only (357, SR44W, G13, MS76, KS76) and make sure bottom cover screws are tight. There were 5 different 50mm 1.8s made. The best performer seems to be the last multicoated version which has "made in Japan" on the name ring (not just "Japan"). Of the 50mm f1.4, look for multicoated version above 1,100,000 serial number. John

John-
Thanks for the info. I will definitely be purchasing a 50mm 1.4
As far as another OM body goes, I have no idea what I want (big fan of a camera with AE).
I have a desire to have a mechanical OM, as I have a belief that this is a more reliable camera... as some have stated in their posts... is this an unjustified belief?
I am looking for a OM, that once overhauled, would provide many years of service, what OM would you recommend? Should I be concerned with the reliability and lifespan of the OM-2N electronics? or is the OM-4T better?

 

[pixelatedscraps]

If you can find an OM-4 for roughly the same price as an OM-2n / sp I would go for it. It is an upgraded chassis with better weather sealing and a few other tweaks - the electronics in it are virtually the same though. As for a mechanical body - just pick up an OM-1 or OM-1n - they go for as little as $70. Make sure to check the viewfinder carefully for leakage from the foam light seals, and the light meter - as they are two points of weakness.

 

[Keith]

Keith I think you need an easel that grips the paper at the center of each side and stretches it... expose the image and the released paper then returns to rectangular and the barrel distortion is gone. 😀

And my 50mm f/1.8 Zuiko ("Japan" not "Made in Japan") does show noticeable barrel distortion, yet it's otherwise admirable...

This is one of those pics that really needs a caption ... how about:

"I washed my hands several times thoroughly after touching that Nikon but something seems to be lingering ... what do you think?"

 

[plummerl]

now that is the one response I can 100% agree with!
I think before I do anything, we should sit down and discuss gear over a pint or two 😀
I maybe able to meet on March 20 or 21... I'll let you know.

Hi Jason! The Big Time and I will be waiting. In the meantime, you can check out: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...01154&_sacat=See-All-Categories&_fvi=1&_rdc=1

The main fault with this one, is that the F1.4 is less than the fabled 1.1 million! 😀 Hey, at least it comes with the GRIP 1!

 

[PlantedTao]

Thanks Larry, but that would deplete my beer funds 🙂
I think I will go with a more modest priced OM and spend the rest on growlers and film (two essentials for good photos).

 

[PlantedTao]

Well, after reading everyone's advice and doing a bunch of research, and really thinking about what I want, I'm going to go for a OM-1n. I want a mechanical camera to replace my Bessa R2 and I want a camera with simply function and feel, the OM-1n seems to be the one (and fits into my budget!). Plus, I want to have a camera that forces me to focus on exposure, think about Sunny 16 and gets me away from a reliance of AE.
I will also get a 50 1.4 to go with it.

How can you tell if you are getting a late model OM-1n (1987) verse one of the earlier ones??? Does it matter???

Thanks!
Jason

 

[k.a]

Well, after reading everyone's advice and doing a bunch of research, and really thinking about what I want, I'm going to go for a OM-1n. I want a mechanical camera to replace my Bessa R2 and I want a camera with simply function and feel, the OM-1n seems to be the one (and fits into my budget!). Plus, I want to have a camera that forces me to focus on exposure, think about Sunny 16 and gets me away from a reliance of AE.
I will also get a 50 1.4 to go with it.

How can you tell if you are getting a late model OM-1n (1987) verse one of the earlier ones??? Does it matter???

Thanks!
Jason

Hi

i have now idea how to see if it is a late model or not, but i do have two old om1 that i'm very satisfied with. i think that as long as you get one in good condition (both mechanical and with working lightmeter) you will be pleased.

the om1 is my favorite, much nicer then the om2-3-4, because it's simplicity. truly a great camera.

for lenses i recomend the 24mm f2.8, it's my favorite one and it is one of the best i've ever tried

 

[k.a]

ohh, and if you do how ever find some money just laying around, be shure to get a 85/2, also a super lens!