Semi-unsmooth Elmar (1949)

But this lens is so simple that marks and references points on the lens itself should be good enough if one takes note of them.

Most people don't take the time to make simple marks or take note of them...or they mark it with a grease pencil which then gets rubbed off during cleaning..

I've bought 2 Elmars in the last year that the owner thought he could clean only to find out he couldn't get it re-aligned..

If you know how fine but if you have to ask how then you should consider whether to take it to a trained repairman..
 
Yup, and a repair technician will have the right grease in stock and won't have to buy a 5 gall drum of it specially for one job. Plus he or she will have the screwdrivers that fit the screws.

And, if asked, will say that he/she ground them down by hand on an oilstone and not on an electric drill that would draw its temper... That's a good question to ask, imo.

As the man said, if you have to ask you shouldn't be doing it.

Regards, David

PS And I was taught (60's) that silicone oils and greases are for plastics and not for metals... So when did that change?
 
No lithium in hellicoids for me neither. I use carbon based or wax based following maker's instructions.

Everyone can do whatever they want to, but those last two years (and my overeseas collegues will confirm or not), at least 40% of my business is due to wrong diy attempts. In 90% of those cases the clients got at least twice much to pay than a client that would've sent the same camera with the same original problem.
And at least 1/3rd of those clients just bought the gear paying it more than what it's worth.

So, yes everyone can do what they want, but most people should get their hands in a bike, then a car then toasters, ovens, tv... and then one day start climbing the camera repair ladder begining with the basics (instamatics, boxes...).

For those who got success, great for you, why don't you show us the reasults of your gear on FTM benches and collimators?
 
Well, I repair things for a living, too, as well as teach a summer course in what I do, and there are a couple of things to remember: one is that like police who only see people at their worst, repairmen only get to see the mistakes. Second, most people really aren't idiots, and can learn to do things, but they have to start somewhere.

I've been reading up on grease for helicals, and the only thing that's come out of it is that every person has his favorite grease, and thinks the ones that everyone else uses are dangerous and unworthy, and that their users are incompetent idiots. Most helical grease discussions turn into routs, not just this one.

However, as I said at the beginning, the 50/3.5 Elmar is the simplest lens you are ever going to see, virtually anyone can fix it, and incidentally, the path from the helical to the diaphragm blades in that lens is a long and winding path. It just ain't gonna happen.

If you think that Nikon knows something about what they're doing, here's where you can get what they use: http://www.camerarecycler.com/greases/NPC_FC-4_GE-8_I-40_lens_grease.htm

Argue amongst yourselves. 🙂
 
Well, I repair things for a living, too, as well as teach a summer course in what I do, and there are a couple of things to remember: one is that like police who only see people at their worst, repairmen only get to see the mistakes. Second, most people really aren't idiots, and can learn to do things, but they have to start somewhere.
That's a general fact indeed, I'm probably influenced by all the morron job I can see everyday, but a fact is that a lot of people nowadays try to get their hands where they shouldn't. I feel quite bad to tell people they messed up their gear instead of fixing it, but my job is to make it work at it's best, and a lot of DIY repairs don't.
I'm the first one to stand up for self teaching, but usually people that want to do things by themselves start low to get slowly higher and higher, I've never heard of a wood amateur that started by making a cabinet, usually they start with benches, tables and chairs, and then as their skills and equippement grow they go to bigger projects. This should be the same with cameras IMHO.

I've been reading up on grease for helicals, and the only thing that's come out of it is that every person has his favorite grease, and thinks the ones that everyone else uses are dangerous and unworthy, and that their users are incompetent idiots. Most helical grease discussions turn into routs, not just this one.
Depends on who is talking, a traditional repair shop got at least 6-7 different greases for helicals only used on relation to the materials and their interractions used to make the helical. I've got 12 of them to be able to deal with some weird situations, and quite often I need to use specific charges or blends for a really specific purpose (delrin/iron, Copper/plastic...)

However, as I said at the beginning, the 50/3.5 Elmar is the simplest lens you are ever going to see, virtually anyone can fix it, and incidentally, the path from the helical to the diaphragm blades in that lens is a long and winding path. It just ain't gonna happen.

True/not that true, that's a simple lens, but I saw quite a lot of people messing with it, and more precisely with the inner treatment of the lenses, that was a great trial and error era in terms of treatments and some recieved a Sodium Fluorure+ Baryum fluorure inner coating, and sodium fluorure is quite easily destroyed by some lubes.
Cleaning helical without cleaning the blades and their crown is not a good idea IMHO if you're doing something to it completely.

If you think that Nikon knows something about what they're doing, here's where you can get what they use: http://www.camerarecycler.com/greases/NPC_FC-4_GE-8_I-40_lens_grease.htm

Argue amongst yourselves. 🙂
NPC lubes showed are used by nikon for their modern plastic threaded zooms and fix focus lenses, that's true, they could work but it's a PTFE load (except I40 &GE-7) perfect for petroleum derivatives lube but nor really for brass.
 
In my past experience, lithium grease or automotive wheel bearing grease has worked fine. You want to put the bare minimum on there anyway, so we're talking tiny amounts. Then carefully wipe off all residue after focusing the lens a few times. The wheel bearing grease will definitely stay in one place and not migrate. It's designed to stay in one place in extreme temperatures. If this were a modern AF lens you'd want a thinner lube.

That's a great illustration of the take-apart process mdarnton gave. If you mark the place where the lens unscrews w/ a tiny mark on both pieces you won't have any problem reassembling the lens. Or, simply take a digital photo of the way it looks when the threads end and the lens is free, then restart it in the same place. Very easy. Also, it's very easy to restart the lens in the wrong place if you don't know what's up, but now you know. It's only one part. Look, the worst that could happen is you'll have to fool around w/ the lens a bit if you restart it in the wrong place.
 
Thank you for all the replys. It is really great with some advice. I am sure what I will do to the lens yet...

Does anyone know where it would be a good place to sell such an old lens (and Leica Ic) ? I cant really figure out if Ebay, this forum or some place else might be the best place?
 
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