cluso
Newbie
Hi,
I've been trying to calibrate the infinity setting on my Olympus 35 RC and SP cameras. I've been using the method where a second camera (SLR), carefully set to infinity, is used to measure through the lens of the first camera. The method is for example explained on the web page of Michael Feuerbacher:
http://feuerbacher.net/photo/frame.html?repair/InfinityFocus/InfinityFocus.html~Main
The idea is to make a scratch or draw a line with an ink pen on a part of film and then use these lines as a reference. However, I find that there is quite a bit of a difference in the setting you get when using the line or the scratch. The line is on top of the film, the scratch lies withing the emulsion of the film, so one ends up with different settings. When I change the focus, I even find that different parts of the scratch come in focus as I tune the focal point through the film plane. So the method is quite sensitive.
I am wondering if the best method wouldn't be to use a photograph (best with straight lines) from an exposed film as a reference and then calibrate to the straight lines in the motiv. This should be the most exact reference.
Just wondering if this is correct or not...
Thanks,
cluso
I've been trying to calibrate the infinity setting on my Olympus 35 RC and SP cameras. I've been using the method where a second camera (SLR), carefully set to infinity, is used to measure through the lens of the first camera. The method is for example explained on the web page of Michael Feuerbacher:
http://feuerbacher.net/photo/frame.html?repair/InfinityFocus/InfinityFocus.html~Main
The idea is to make a scratch or draw a line with an ink pen on a part of film and then use these lines as a reference. However, I find that there is quite a bit of a difference in the setting you get when using the line or the scratch. The line is on top of the film, the scratch lies withing the emulsion of the film, so one ends up with different settings. When I change the focus, I even find that different parts of the scratch come in focus as I tune the focal point through the film plane. So the method is quite sensitive.
I am wondering if the best method wouldn't be to use a photograph (best with straight lines) from an exposed film as a reference and then calibrate to the straight lines in the motiv. This should be the most exact reference.
Just wondering if this is correct or not...
Thanks,
cluso