cosmonot
uʍop ǝpısdn sı ǝʞ
I recently acquired a Jobo CPP-2, and would like to get it up and running in the next week or so...
At the moment I only plan on developing B&W negative stock.
Been reading through the documentation I have (mostly for the different drums it came with) as well as the instructions on the Jobo website. Right now I think I will be making a temporary shelf to hold it above the tub in an unused bathroom. That seems like the most sensible place to put it at the moment.
So, anyone out there running a Jobo? Any tips/hints/horror stories that I should be aware of?
At the moment I only plan on developing B&W negative stock.
Been reading through the documentation I have (mostly for the different drums it came with) as well as the instructions on the Jobo website. Right now I think I will be making a temporary shelf to hold it above the tub in an unused bathroom. That seems like the most sensible place to put it at the moment.
So, anyone out there running a Jobo? Any tips/hints/horror stories that I should be aware of?
denishr
アナログ侘・&#
Hi,
Do you have the one with the lift?
If you do, one word of advice: go easy on the drums - don't exceed the load/weight (liquid volume) the CPP-2 is designed to handle.
While we're on the subject of handles, a piece of string tied to the "sled" on which the drum rests will prevent the lift handle breaking, even if you do exceed the max. recommended load... I.e. when you're lifting the lift handle to drain the drum, also pull on the string to reduce the load on the handle. If you break the handle, the lift is as good as dead.
Lots of info on JOBO processors can be found on apug.
Denis
Do you have the one with the lift?
If you do, one word of advice: go easy on the drums - don't exceed the load/weight (liquid volume) the CPP-2 is designed to handle.
While we're on the subject of handles, a piece of string tied to the "sled" on which the drum rests will prevent the lift handle breaking, even if you do exceed the max. recommended load... I.e. when you're lifting the lift handle to drain the drum, also pull on the string to reduce the load on the handle. If you break the handle, the lift is as good as dead.
Lots of info on JOBO processors can be found on apug.
Denis
Monz
Monz
Hi cosmonot,
I have a Jobo CPE2 system (magnetic attachment of drums, no lift). I use it mainly for developing b+w film (35mm and 120). I use a dark bag to load the films into the drum. I keep the Jobo kit in my office which is next to the bathroom and just move back and forth between the two rooms as necessary. After developing, I just scan the negatives. I don't have a darkroom and so can't do any wet printing.
--
Monz
I have a Jobo CPE2 system (magnetic attachment of drums, no lift). I use it mainly for developing b+w film (35mm and 120). I use a dark bag to load the films into the drum. I keep the Jobo kit in my office which is next to the bathroom and just move back and forth between the two rooms as necessary. After developing, I just scan the negatives. I don't have a darkroom and so can't do any wet printing.
--
Monz
nickdando
Established
There is a dearth of instructions with the processor so with the help of http://www.largeformatphotography.info/ I downloaded some more details and edited them into MS Word documents.
PM me if you would like to see them.
Nick
PM me if you would like to see them.
Nick
cosmonot
uʍop ǝpısdn sı ǝʞ
Yes, it does have the lift kit. Doesn't seem all that sturdy, but looks pretty useful... So I'll be careful with that.
I'll check out the apug & largeformat sites that were mentioned. I imagine it's a pretty popular option for the sheet film crowd.
Even if I only use it as a tempered water bath initially, it seems like a pretty useful piece of equipment.
I'll check out the apug & largeformat sites that were mentioned. I imagine it's a pretty popular option for the sheet film crowd.
Even if I only use it as a tempered water bath initially, it seems like a pretty useful piece of equipment.
rogue_designer
Reciprocity Failure
When using the lift - I always use the lever with my left hand, and my right hand under the sled to help the lift up - once it's up, I can let go and use my right to grab the chemistry change.
crawdiddy
qu'est-ce que c'est?
I've always used plain old tanks and reels for B&W. Is the Jobo a significant improvement over the other method?
MartinP
Veteran
I am puzzled as to any advantage for black-and-white. The required temperature is already at room level, so there is not much temperature control required, and with constant agitation in the Jobo you lose one of the useful variables in controlling the results you get.
I am curious as to the actual benefit(s) of a Jobo for silver-based black-and-white developing ???? (and yes I do have one, a CPE-2 that came along with a De Vere 203, in the local second-hand market).
I am curious as to the actual benefit(s) of a Jobo for silver-based black-and-white developing ???? (and yes I do have one, a CPE-2 that came along with a De Vere 203, in the local second-hand market).
cosmonot
uʍop ǝpısdn sı ǝʞ
MartinP said:
There is likely no *significant* advantage to using the Jobo for the film I mostly shoot. It is a new tool though, and I want to learn how to use it.
It did come with several chemical kits for C41 and E6. While I don't shoot either of those regularly (and have never shot a roll of E6 in my entire life) I now have the option for some cheap processing. I'm sure that knowing how to do B&W consistently would be an asset before attempting a more complicated color process.
I've been using my stainless tanks for so long that's like second nature right now. Other than the fact that "room temperature" in the areas which I develop film is often considerably different than the ideal 20 deg C, it's hard to beat the results I already get for the time and effort invested.
shadowfox
Darkroom printing lives
What is the main benefit of using a Jobo vs Tank and reels?
Which way consumes more chemicals?
Which way consumes more chemicals?
kaiyen
local man of mystery
Benefit? Well, it does use less chemicals. Usually, you put in enough to cover the film at the bottom, rather than filling the entire tank. At least, that's how I do it with my jobo-equivalent rolling systems for LF.
However, one thing that is almost required in 35mm is the increased sharpness one gets from intermittent agitation. With LF it doesn't matter - even an 8x10 enlargement from a 4x5 is only a 2x enlargement. Sharpness of just the film itself is sufficient. 3x gets you to 12x15. Huge. With 35mm, you're talking 8x enlargement or so just to 8x10.
To me, intermittent is the best. For maximum sharpness, reduced agitation (not nec. stand, though that is an option) with higher dilutions is even better.
allan
However, one thing that is almost required in 35mm is the increased sharpness one gets from intermittent agitation. With LF it doesn't matter - even an 8x10 enlargement from a 4x5 is only a 2x enlargement. Sharpness of just the film itself is sufficient. 3x gets you to 12x15. Huge. With 35mm, you're talking 8x enlargement or so just to 8x10.
To me, intermittent is the best. For maximum sharpness, reduced agitation (not nec. stand, though that is an option) with higher dilutions is even better.
allan
venchka
Veteran
With the correct lid & stopper you can use a Jobo tank for any agitation plan you like. It just takes more liquid. Temperature control is probably the main advantage. Altough you can do the same with a plastic basin and some ice cubes. Here in Texas tap water hits about 85F in the summer. For sheet film I really really like my Jobo Expert 3010 tank. Super simple to load. Super consistent development. I use my Jobo tanks on a $20 Unicolor Uniroller. The ultra low cost solution to rotary processing.
denishr
アナログ侘・&#
I tend to agre with Allan.
Jobo *does* use significantly less chemistry than the usual (manual) tank development.
For 35mm development, you need to find the development combo which suits you best (obviously, if you're used to semi-stand development, you won't be happy with Jobo - although there are ways to counter the constant agitation problems - by changing the developer used, pre-wash, etc...).
The main reason why I use it is that it's cleaner, much more practical, and much more consistent than "manual" (tank) processing. If you only do 35mm processing, and if you tend to use either stand or semi-stand development, there will be no (immediate) bonus for using Jobo.
However, if you're a multi-format shooter (particularly if you use large format), Jobo is probably the best option there is....
Denis
Jobo *does* use significantly less chemistry than the usual (manual) tank development.
For 35mm development, you need to find the development combo which suits you best (obviously, if you're used to semi-stand development, you won't be happy with Jobo - although there are ways to counter the constant agitation problems - by changing the developer used, pre-wash, etc...).
The main reason why I use it is that it's cleaner, much more practical, and much more consistent than "manual" (tank) processing. If you only do 35mm processing, and if you tend to use either stand or semi-stand development, there will be no (immediate) bonus for using Jobo.
However, if you're a multi-format shooter (particularly if you use large format), Jobo is probably the best option there is....
Denis
kaiyen
local man of mystery
Another option if you decide to go LF that is a lot cheaper is to use regular paterson plastic tanks for 135 and 120, then use color paper development tanks, with rollers, for LF. I have ones for 8x10 and 11x14 _paper_. Uses almost no chemistry, and the roller agitators brought the whole thing to like...$20?
I want to say that the 11x14 one uses like 250ml of chemicals. I use 550ml for just 2 135 rolls. And I can fit 4 5x7 sheets in that LF tank...
I want to say that the 11x14 one uses like 250ml of chemicals. I use 550ml for just 2 135 rolls. And I can fit 4 5x7 sheets in that LF tank...
Monz
Monz
shadowfox said:
Hi,
The Jobo rotation method uses less chemicals. For example, with a standard Jobo UniTank 1520 which holds 2 rolls of 35mm films or 2 rolls of 120, you need 240ml of chemicals for the rotation method using the Jobo motor and 485ml for hand inversion. Also, it is a lot easier to let the motor do the work rather than manually jiggling a tank for 8 minutes or whatever the dev time is. Dev times are 10-15% shorter with rotation.
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Monz
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venchka
Veteran
Back to using the Jobo machine:
If your water supply is too warm, freeze some small bottles half full of water. These can be used to lower the water bath temp.
If your water supply is too warm, freeze some small bottles half full of water. These can be used to lower the water bath temp.
Tom A
RFF Sponsor
I did have a Jobo kit some years ago. Cant remember the designation, but it did have the lift system. I found it less than practical with bl/w processing as you had to ensure that you had the minimum required amount of active chemsitry to get even development. It you fill the tanks, the lift cant handle it and if you use too dilute developer it doesn't work very well either.
For color stuff it is very good and with great consistency - but for bl/w I prefer my 5 reel tanks and "shake, rattle and roll" processing. I do use an old Unicolor roller system for fixing film and that seems to work well.
For color stuff it is very good and with great consistency - but for bl/w I prefer my 5 reel tanks and "shake, rattle and roll" processing. I do use an old Unicolor roller system for fixing film and that seems to work well.
eric
[was]: emaquiling
cosmonot said:
I use to run one in a lab. Worked great. We used the manual version and then upgraded to the automagic lift one. You can reuse the stop and fixer but depending on developer and how well you take notes, you can replenish developer. Horror stories? Don't remember. I think I remember we stripped the cogs once but we were able to run down to B&H and get a new one in 5 minutes.
Oh, put a little rubbing alchohol in the holding tank (or beer or vodka or tequilla). It'll keep critters from growing in them. I do this in my gallon container of photo-flo.
Oh, Jobos like to be fed large 4x5 and 8x10 sheet film. 35mm and 120's are just appetizer for those things. If you are going to do 35mm film, shake and bake in a SS tank is much faster and rewarding.