Henk
Established
Hi,
Yesterday I bought an SF20 (my first flash ever) to use with my M6 "classic".
I have absolutely no experience whatsoever with using a flash.
I understand how to use it in low light conditions, but I wonder which settings
to make for using it as a "subtle" fill flash.
Which settings do you SF20 users make for fill flash ?
Thanx!
Yesterday I bought an SF20 (my first flash ever) to use with my M6 "classic".
I have absolutely no experience whatsoever with using a flash.
I understand how to use it in low light conditions, but I wonder which settings
to make for using it as a "subtle" fill flash.
Which settings do you SF20 users make for fill flash ?
Thanx!
RichardB
Well-known
Leicas have a maximum flash synch setting of about 1/50 second and as such are not very suitable for fill flash and the SF series has no settings for fill flash as modern day digital cameras do.
Fill flash must balance the normal exposure using 1/50 max with whatever the correct f stop is for that incident/reflected reading, then you must use the SF in Manual calculating how to get a half stop less exposure from the flash.
I have an SF24, M6 Classic and M7's and have never attempted it.
There is no mention in the SF24 manual of fill flash.-Dick
Fill flash must balance the normal exposure using 1/50 max with whatever the correct f stop is for that incident/reflected reading, then you must use the SF in Manual calculating how to get a half stop less exposure from the flash.
I have an SF24, M6 Classic and M7's and have never attempted it.
There is no mention in the SF24 manual of fill flash.-Dick
George S.
How many is enough?
One of the advantages of using the Leica system, and many other RF cameras, is the ability to use very fast lenses and not having to rely on a flash to get a 'usable' photo. Slow SLR and a lot of digital lenses may be as slow as F 4.5, 6 or even 8. Not so with RF lenses. I'd get used to shooting with fast lenses a little before even taking that flash out of its box.
And I also have an M6 classic and an SF20, and I have never used the flash.
And I also have an M6 classic and an SF20, and I have never used the flash.
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35mmdelux
Veni, vidi, vici
I have a SF20 I take along occasionally for last ditch situations. Other than this, I have learned to shoot without flash.
Do yourself a favor and take a look at the New York Times or Nat Geographic magazine and look at the fabulous fotos taken without flash.
Do yourself a favor and take a look at the New York Times or Nat Geographic magazine and look at the fabulous fotos taken without flash.
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marke
Well-known
I got myself an SF20, "just in case". But I've only used it a couple times. Like the other guys said, you get into a Leica system so you can shoot without a flash. That's one of the reasons I picked up a Summilux 50 last year. I struggle with keeping the flash or just selling it. My problem is that I can't stand the thought of selling ANY of my Leica gear!
DwF
Well-known
SF 20 off camera
SF 20 off camera
I am using SF 20 flash with my M8. It should work similarly in M mode on the M6. I find that powering down the flash at closer distances works well especially for fill flash. And for more effective use of flash, the Nikon SC 17 cord allows you to take the flash off-camera. Here is a recent picture using the
SF 20 off-camera.
I would agree with George S. that you'll want to take advantage of your camera in working with the available light.
Best,
david
SF 20 off camera
I am using SF 20 flash with my M8. It should work similarly in M mode on the M6. I find that powering down the flash at closer distances works well especially for fill flash. And for more effective use of flash, the Nikon SC 17 cord allows you to take the flash off-camera. Here is a recent picture using the
SF 20 off-camera.
I would agree with George S. that you'll want to take advantage of your camera in working with the available light.
Best,
david
Attachments
elshaneo
Panographer
My best tip for using the Leica SF 20, is to set it to A mode, with aperture 2.8 or 5.6 and Exposure Value at -1. Most of the times it works fine for me !!!
MCTuomey
Veteran
fill flash w/ SF-20 = flash compensation -1 to -2 stops. or what shane says.
david, that's a very nice example of off-camera flash, well-balanced against ambient. gorgeous!
+1 using the flash off-camera, or with lutz's sfill
david, that's a very nice example of off-camera flash, well-balanced against ambient. gorgeous!
+1 using the flash off-camera, or with lutz's sfill
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DwF
Well-known
Thanks Mike
Thanks Mike
I have used the cord and off-camera since and sometimes the result is better than other times, but here I had a patient subject
david
Thanks Mike
I have used the cord and off-camera since and sometimes the result is better than other times, but here I had a patient subject
david
DwF
Well-known
Another off-camera SF 20
Another off-camera SF 20
Here is one that is current. I used the SF 20 and under the pressure of two kids more interested in desert....and a race against burning candles. Lens is the Tele-Elmarit (thin) 90 at f4. Flash is powered to 7.2 feet and bounced.
And the old lesson re-learned.... when using flash keep subject distance from bakground at a comfortable distance to avoid shadows. I knew this during the shoot but had my hands full!
Happy Holidays
david
Another off-camera SF 20
Here is one that is current. I used the SF 20 and under the pressure of two kids more interested in desert....and a race against burning candles. Lens is the Tele-Elmarit (thin) 90 at f4. Flash is powered to 7.2 feet and bounced.
And the old lesson re-learned.... when using flash keep subject distance from bakground at a comfortable distance to avoid shadows. I knew this during the shoot but had my hands full!
Happy Holidays
david
Attachments
Rik
Established
have a look at the Leicagoodies Sfill...
but i'm biased
but i'm biased
35mmdelux
Veni, vidi, vici
With my Nikon F6 TTL or MF cameras I go for balanced lighting as best I can eek out of my little talent. With my Leicas and its slow flash sync speed I have virtually given up on balanced lighting (cost benefit analysis) and accepted more of a Bruce Gilden effect. In other words, I realize my subject is going to get some hard lighting and I use it to suit the situation.
I also use the SF20 with my F6 when I want to travel lightly. Good luck. P.
I also use the SF20 with my F6 when I want to travel lightly. Good luck. P.
benno
Hack.
I don't know how you guys shoot available light exclusively. I regularly get into the 1/30th @f1.5, iso 3200 territory. And when it gets darker I take my Oly 35RC and it's flash.
sirius
Well-known
It think it is rather strange to answer someone's question about how to use flash with Leica by saying buy faster lenses and don't use flash at all?! There seems to be a prejudice against flash around here, but it's more the improper/unskilled use of flash people rebel against, I think. A well skilled use of flash can make beautiful images while still taking advantage of what a rangefinder cameras offer. Many of the masters of Leica cameras could wield a deft flash, Winogrand, Gilden and Mark Cohen come to mind.
Many National Geographic photographers using a Leica M-system, like David Alan Harvey and William Albert Allard, used flash quite a bit and with a beautiful and natural effect. The slow slide films they used demanded augmented light even with the fastest lenses. Of course, they didn't use the Leica flash. It is not a very useful flash. There are many better ones (I like Metz). I suggest you do some more research about flashes and how you want to use it.
Many National Geographic photographers using a Leica M-system, like David Alan Harvey and William Albert Allard, used flash quite a bit and with a beautiful and natural effect. The slow slide films they used demanded augmented light even with the fastest lenses. Of course, they didn't use the Leica flash. It is not a very useful flash. There are many better ones (I like Metz). I suggest you do some more research about flashes and how you want to use it.
drsimonwong
Member
SF20 works great for fill, but you are limited to 1/50 or slower shutter speeds. This means very small aperatures for daylight fill shots and a very limited range for the flash. Set your camera to correct exposure for 1/50th. Try using A mode and gauge if you are within the power range of the flash for the distance of your subject. If you are then you need to drop the power of the flash to -1 to -2. You will need to do some mental arithmetic to up the power if you are out of range to suit the -2 setting.
For indoor shots, do the same but add a warming gel filter over your flashhead to colour match to indoor tungesten light. Set your correct camera exposure for 1/50th and do a -2 for your flash. You'll get correct exposure with a fill for your subject.
Good luck.
Simon
For indoor shots, do the same but add a warming gel filter over your flashhead to colour match to indoor tungesten light. Set your correct camera exposure for 1/50th and do a -2 for your flash. You'll get correct exposure with a fill for your subject.
Good luck.
Simon
Henk
Established
Ok
Ok
Thanx for the replies.
Simon, your explanation is very clear. Thank you !
Ok
Thanx for the replies.
Simon, your explanation is very clear. Thank you !
robert blu
quiet photographer
@david: excellent the picture of the little girl with violin !
rob
rob
Harry Lime
Practitioner
Fill flash is a lot easier to do with the M6ttl or M7. Both have TTL metering for the flash. You simply set the exposure compensation on the SF20 to 1 3/4 or 2 stops below the aperture, shutter speed to 1/50th and you're off. The biggest problem after that is how to soften the light coming from the SF20, since you can't tilt the head to bounche. Some people use a diffuser or card to bounce the light off a surface. Others use a cord (SC-17?) to take the flash off the camera, but you need three arms to do this successfully.
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