nightfly
Well-known
Couldn't edit my last post on this so deleted and started over:
My refurb EP-2 just came. Very excited. Actually feels like a real camera (previous experience only digital point and shoots).
I bought it for color street photos and vacation shots and to avoid my usual get back from vacation bring a few rolls of color to the lab, get them back a few days later, start editing/scanning and lose patience/interest.
So I'm looking for a good digital workflow. Right now I have Photoshop CS3 which I use for film scanning (no Aperture or Lightroom but willing to buy if needed) but part of the reason I bought the EP-2 was for good out of camera JPEGS. However, I wouldn't be totally averse to RAW if it offers real advantages.
I'm trying to get a nice, neutral color, film like look. Think Portra 160.
Want to spend more time shooting, less time editing/processing.
So what are your in camera settings for JPGs or RAW workflow like?
My refurb EP-2 just came. Very excited. Actually feels like a real camera (previous experience only digital point and shoots).
I bought it for color street photos and vacation shots and to avoid my usual get back from vacation bring a few rolls of color to the lab, get them back a few days later, start editing/scanning and lose patience/interest.
So I'm looking for a good digital workflow. Right now I have Photoshop CS3 which I use for film scanning (no Aperture or Lightroom but willing to buy if needed) but part of the reason I bought the EP-2 was for good out of camera JPEGS. However, I wouldn't be totally averse to RAW if it offers real advantages.
I'm trying to get a nice, neutral color, film like look. Think Portra 160.
Want to spend more time shooting, less time editing/processing.
So what are your in camera settings for JPGs or RAW workflow like?
gavinlg
Veteran
Raw doesn't offer a huuuge advantage with the EP series over jpegs... What lightroom/aperture does offer is epic storage and library solutions. For that reason, and that it streamlines the storage with the editing in a logical fashion - I always recommend them.
I'd have a play with the picture controls or whatever Olympus calls them and just experiment. I always turn auto graduation stuff off as it raises noise in shadows.
I'm sure you'll love the camera, they're great!
I'd have a play with the picture controls or whatever Olympus calls them and just experiment. I always turn auto graduation stuff off as it raises noise in shadows.
I'm sure you'll love the camera, they're great!
nightfly
Well-known
Thanks. I did find an old post here about settings that was super informative:
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=95294
Only thing it really didn't go into was color settings but I will play with it and see what I get.
Setting the AEL button to focus and then being able to have focused locked and shoot away seems like it will work like my pre-focused M4-P. Brilliant.
I'm thinking when I upgrade my Mac, I'll probably upgrade Photoshop CS3 to CS5 and see if I can get some sort of deal where they throw in Lightroom as well. I always wonder when they say you need the old version to upgrade to the new if you really do. It's probably easy enough for them to check for it but I would assume you are actually getting a completely fresh install.
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=95294
Only thing it really didn't go into was color settings but I will play with it and see what I get.
Setting the AEL button to focus and then being able to have focused locked and shoot away seems like it will work like my pre-focused M4-P. Brilliant.
I'm thinking when I upgrade my Mac, I'll probably upgrade Photoshop CS3 to CS5 and see if I can get some sort of deal where they throw in Lightroom as well. I always wonder when they say you need the old version to upgrade to the new if you really do. It's probably easy enough for them to check for it but I would assume you are actually getting a completely fresh install.