Sharp

[Bill Pierce]

I see a lot of comments on various web sites that link megapixels in an image to “sharpness.” There’s a general malaise among shooters who feel they just don’t have enough megapixels in their current cameras.

While the pixels in sensors come in a variety of sizes and quantities, in general the more pixels, the larger you can make a print before having to resize with the possibility of losing sharpness. That’s it.

For most folks using modern digital cameras and making relatively normal sized prints, there are other factors that are far more important than pixel count when it comes to making a “sharp” print. Some have to do with what digital processing program you use and how you use it. And, now rarely discussed, the same old shooting techniques that effected sharpness when we were shooting film.

I thought we might make a list of things that cost less than a new camera that improve sharpness. I’ll start with using a high shutter speed. Now that we can all check images at 100%, most everybody realizes that we’re not quite as steady handed as we thought. High on my priority list for sharp pictures is a high shutter speed. What’s on your list?

 

[lynnb]

I'll state the obvious, a tripod. Or anything else that braces the camera.

Edit: but sharpness is much overrated..

 

[______]

The other obvious items: higher shutter speed and developer.

 

[nikon_sam]

How about a focusing screen that works best for your type of shooting or eye-sight...I prefer a micro prism type over a split screen...
I have super sharp lenses and some that are very good but not Razor sharp...as long as both types are in focus when shooting the results should be sharp...

 

[daveleo]

I typically shoot at f4 or slower (EDIT) to get reasonable dof and because most lenses are at their best in that range.

but as stated above, sharpness is highly overrated.

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[Brian Legge]

I think one of the forces driving the 'higher resolution' push is the heavy amount of cropping/digital manipulation and people viewing photos on larger, higher resolution monitors instead of looking at prints. When people do talk about prints, they seem to be talking about much larger than 8x10s.

Don't get me wrong here, I'm not saying that all of this is rational or needed by most. I do think there is some rationale behind the desire for higher resolution over all though.

 

[Phil_F_NM]

Just knowing one's gear and where the "sweet spot of sharpness is. None of us own diffraction limited lenses, at least not for everyday photography and probably not handheld at that. We can't shoot a lens wide open and expect superb sharpness, regardless of lens make. There are some amazing optics out there but they still usually are sharpest a few stops from wide open. In 35mm this tends to be f/4 or f/5.6 with a few exceptions. In larger formats it's f/8-f/16 and still smaller apertures in 8x10 or larger.

Another thing to add sharpness is to use a lens hood. If using filters, use multicoated ones. Flare can decrease sharpness quite a bit.

Having one's camera properly adjusted to ensure accurate lens registration and film flatness is a big deal.

Then there's breathing. A technique we can all improve upon. Exercise, diet and overall health. We can strengthen our bodies, increase flexibility, improve circulation and shake less or learn to shoot with the shakes and maximize our potential at our personal slowest speed and above that.

Phil Forrest

 

[MCTuomey]

Stop shooting in clubs where I'm trying to capture active musicians at 1/30-45, f/1.4, and at least iso 3200.

Except I like shooting there. Sharpness isn't overrated. It's not always practical to achieve.

 

[Pioneer]

Shoot at shutter speeds that actually reflect my own abilities, don't confuse what I can do with what someone else says they can work with.

Stabilize my camera somehow if I have to shoot below those shutter speeds.

Recognize when sharp enough is truly sharp enough. Sharpness is important, but certainly not the only thing. Remember, most of the most memorable pictures were made with lenses and films that are decades away from what is available today.

 

[Moto-Uno]

I like my cable releases . Peter

 

[Livesteamer]

Long ago in my younger days, I could hand hold my Nikon F at 1/30 and get sharp results most of the time. Now after years of using Leica M I try to stay at 250 or faster. I am not as steady as I used to be, or maybe more critical. Oddly, the last roll out of my IIIc had a lovely shot I did at 1/30 . Some cameras seem easier to hold steady. Don't know why. Joe

 

[Duane Pandorf]

When I recently upgraded my over 6 year old MacBook Pro to the latest version with the Retina display all my images look way sharper now. 😀

Having said that, I agree that "sharpness" is overrated. But to ensure what you want to be in focus and "sharp" one practice proper posture and breathing when actuating the shutter no matter what shutter speed. (Especially important to those shooting the latest big megapixel FF cameras)

 

[Livesteamer]

Trust your rangefinder. I do a lot of my shooting in low light and I have found I will do better if I keep the lens wide open to allow the highest possible shutter speed and trust my rangefinder to get the focus where I want it. I used to do a lot of pictures of babies, up close, .7 meters and wide open, f1.4 . Get the eyes in focus and odds are you will get a great shot. Joe

 

[rpsawin]

Very simple but take a deep breath and trip the shutter as you slowly exhale.

 

[raid]

Sharpness is over rated. At least, for me, it is. Photography is a hobby to me, so I decide what I find pleasing and what is not.

Many years ago, when I was using SLR cameras, I used a heavy tripod, a cable release; I would hang something heavy on th tripod; I would do anything possible to increase sharpness in my slides.

 

[Ko.Fe.]

First, check at which aperture the particular lens you are going to use is sharp.
In following by OP scenario to use fast shutter speed you might have to use too wide aperture and higher ISO. At this case it is going to be less sharp, comparing to lens set to optimum, smaller, aperture for sharp pictures, on tripod and slow shutter speed and ISO.
This is what I do for portraits on MF indoors often. Tripod, cable release, slow speed, F8.

With old film glass, adding enough light will make huge difference sometimes. It will looks contrast and sharp.

 

[redisburning]

learn how to really use both unsharp mask and deconvolution sharpening.

and forget sharpening last, ditch that **** and use a multi-step resizing script.

oh and light has a HUGE impact on how we perceive the sharpness of textures. use an off camera, diffuse light aimed properly and be amazed at how much sharper your image appears.

contrast at a given level is fine. but that given level needs to be relevant. 40 lp/mm sharpness doesn't mean anything in a 5x7, but it's very relevant in an 11x14.

 

[Asim]

Sharp

1. Try to shoot with the sun to the left or right of your subject. This will increase the texture (with shadows) of the subject making your image look sharper.

2. Use a warming filter. This will bring more clarity to bright spots or highlights without darkening the dull areas. This warmth will give the overall image an appearance of more sharpness.

3. Shoot in the morning or later afternoon. The warm light will give a 3D look to your image... making your image look very sharp.

4. Use a shallow depth of field to throw background out of focus. The in focus subject will pop out from the blurry background making it look much sharper than if the whole image were in focus.

5. In portraits, bring the eyes of a subject into critical focus. Since the eyes are what attract us to a photo, if they are in sharp focus, it will give the viewer's mind an impression that the whole image is sharp.

Do all of the above in one photos and you'll have an extremely sharp looking image even if your equipment is not the best.

Asim

 

[35mmdelux]

I'll shoot Master Technica or Hasselblad for sharp. Since my stuff not going to hang in the Carmel photo galleries I shoot for myself. Try to keep it at 1/60 or 1/125 staying true to my photography roots. In low light down to 1/15 or 1/8. I'm good.

 

[thegman]

Tripod. Makew slow speeds, shaky hands, all the rest of it irrelevant.