Shooting Hand Held as We Age

D

Davidschumaker

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I am 71 and have a slight tremor. I thought that I was through with my hand held M9. I love street photography and began to carry a monopod or tripod. It is difficult to look inconspicuous with this. So I changed the way I work and have been getting outstanding results, even after dark.

I set the camera on continuous. I use an ISO of 400 or better and the fastest shutter speed I can. Shoot manual only and start with a couple of test shots. I carry the camera strapped tightly to my wrist by winding the neck strap three times around my wrist. (a trick I learned from Justin Stanley of Leica) I use a Thumbs Up. I see the subject, pull the camera up (somewhat pre-focused at about 12 feet) and fire a burst of at least 4 shots holding the trigger down while,sometimes, continuing to focus. Using this method I get at least one or two sharp images.

Any other tricks out there?
 
I believe that's called the "spray 'n' pray" method...

Is there a medical way to lessen the tremor? These things are complicated, like anything medical, probably a hundred possibilities but maybe worth talking to your doctor about.
 
JSU said:
The Leica table top tripod with large ball & socket head can be used as a brace rested on one's chest. When holding one's breath this can often add a few stops lower shutter speeds. With the ball head at a 90 degree angle, the tripod can also be braced against a wall for additional support. Why it can even be used on a table top....

The Leica table top tripod with any of the Leica ball heads will easily support several times the weight of a M body and the heaviest M mount lens.

Another useful item is a small bean bag which used with a hard sided camera bag can elevate and support a camera.

Mentioned elsewhere in this forum is the use of a dog leash. Loop the hand end over your wrist and the snap end under your foot and pull upwards, this will reduce some camera shake.
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Dog leash ....:) or an elastic string.
And with all respect for your age any kind of work out which strengthens the (upper) body helps (and not only photography)
 
Actually, a lot of good thoughts above.

When you are shooting, holding your left arm down against your chest and using the strap wrapped around your wrist forms a stable triangular formation that will help. Pre-focus and getting that first shot composed and done the first time should be the initial goal. As that gets to be natural, then, pre-focus the approximate range and practice, practice, practice, the final focus as soon as the VF is at eyelevel.

Hopefully the tremor is not terribly bad and you can outgun it with the initial frame. But, multiple frames may be the way to go along with faster lenses, higher ISO, etc.

Good luck on getting the tremor under control...best wishes.:angel:
 
I have a tremor in my hands and I'm only 38. I just try to shoot at 1/250th of a second at all times possible. That said, this is why I am a fan of high ISO cameras getting better and better.
 
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I am 55 and not as steady as I used to be. I take a lot of little kid pictures, up close and in available light. I try to keep my shutter at 250 or faster and trust my rangefinder to achieve proper focus in spite of thin depth of field. It works for me. If I have spent an hour with the chain saw, just forget about photography that day. Joe
 
Beta blocker medication and/or alcoholic drink (for which no prescription is needed!) both have a very steadying effect.

Seriously.

Regards,
D.
 
I have a similar problem and have been using the camera strap bandolier style. When I pull the camera up, the strap is tight enough to make it easy to brace against my forehead - I shoot Ms left eye. The strap goes around my right wrist and comes under my left wrist - left hand under the lens. It works for me, when I remember to do it.
 
Ask your doctor about a prescription for the beta blocker Inderal (propranolol). It has helped reduce my tremor a great deal.
 
I find that a heavy camera is a steadier camera. I am known to carry 2 Nikon F3's rigged with motordrives BTW, but even on my Leicas I added TA Rapidwinders and TA Rapidgrips so that my M-bodies are weighted down. My cameras are rigged so that if I had to I could easily shoot with one hand. Having a real grip helps in this regard.

Generally I tend to shoot and carry two cameras, unless I'm just going to work, but I also run and lift weights. Physical conditioning I believe helps.

On my Nikons I figured out how to use my neck strap as a taunt strut against my elbow. I position the strap behind my bicep near my elbow, and I tighten the strap by striaghtening my wrist.. Of course the length of the strap is already set up and optumized for this. I developed this technic because I was trying to get a shot where I had to steady the camera and shoot one handedly because I was using my left arm and hand to hold myself up. I was hanging off a fence or something, or perhaps securing myself from falling from some height.

Cal
 
Consider hiring a photographer to do the picture taking for you and to your specifications, and recast your image into a "imagery director".
 
TXForester said:
I wonder if a weight specifically for that purpose could be designed. Much like the stabilizer bars used in archery.
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All I know is that sniper rifles are heavy.

From what I know the stabilizers used in archery is to dampen the recoil of release.

Cal
 
There's an old saying in fencing: Old age and treachery will always beat youth and enthusiasm. Exhale while shooting (it's hard to be keyed up when exhaling) and learn to slouch against walls, in door-frames, and the like.

Cheers,

R.
 
I am 73 and no longer as steady as I once was. I used to be able to shoot at 1/30 or maybe a 1/15, but 1/30 is a little iffy for me now. I am still fine with 1/60. I have noticed that if I really concentrate on holding still and momentarily hold my breath I can hold pretty still. I haven't tried Rogers method of exhaling but that sounds like a good solution as well. I brace against something when I can but I don't often have that option. Just try a few of these suggestions to see which works better for you. Jim
 
Calzone said:
From what I know the stabilizers used in archery is to dampen the recoil of release.

Cal
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The modern ones have dampening as a part of their function. The original function is just what their name implies.

I don't think it would work the same on a camera, so all you really need is a compact weight, not a long weight hanging down. Although, I've thought about weighting the end of a monopod to experiment. I don't remember pendulums from physics class. I'm guessing it would take more work to start the monopod/pendulum to swing side to side or forwards and back (both relative to the photographer), than to move the camera body alone.

The elastic string is a good idea. Tie a small weight (like a washer) on one end and on the other attach it to 1/4"X20 bolt that screws into the camera. Let the weight drop to the ground and step on it, then stretch the string when bringing the camera to the eye. It really works and it will fit in a shirt pocket.
 
Another technique that can help (in addition to other suggestions) is to RELEASE all the air from your lungs just before you shoot. This will relax you; HOLDING your breath only causes tension in your body - good for shooting photos, foul shots, putting and anything that calls for a steady hand!
 
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