Shooting Kodachrome with BESSA R2M

timothyd

TimothyD
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Hey, I am shooting my first roll (of 20 that I bought) of Kodachrome 64 in my Bessa R2M. I have only ever shot 400 speed film, so I was surprised to see that there's no '64' number in the available speed films on my camera.

It goes from 50 to 100 with two dots in between. I set it on the first dot after 50 (second dot from 100). I am not sure if this is correct?

Also, I am having trouble getting used to shooting with such a slow speed film. I am mostly trying street shooting. Using 400 speed, I am used to shooting around sunlight at 125 or 250 at around f8. But I was out today in the middle of the afternoon with daylight and spots of sunshine and my meter was telling me to shoot at 30 and f8. 30 is very slow for me.

What do other people enjoy shooting using Kodachrome 64? Do you do street shooting with such slow speeds? How do you set your Bessa R2M for 64 speed film? Thanks
 
The dot you used was correct. Why stay with f/8? Open up two stops and you'll be at 1/125th. Just be more careful with your focusing and realize the backgrounds will be more out of focus, which is not always a bad thing.
 
i've shot k-64 since the early 1970s straight on -- no 1/3 adjustment. Lately shooting k-200 for the extra speed. Anyhow, calibrate it as close as possible.

FYI: Kodachrome darks go very dark is case you were not aware. Thus for extreme light shooting, try film rather than kodachrome or E-6.
 
I get my Kodachrome developed via Wal-Mart, which provides about a week turnaround time and costs like $5 per roll. Can't beat it.
 
my meter was telling me to shoot at 30 and f8. 30 is very slow for me.
With lenses of 50mm or wider, 1/30 is no problem for a rangefinder camera. But if you don't like 1/30, why not go for 1/60@f/5.6 or 1/125@f/4? All that glass is there to be used - it would be a shame if you only ever used the little bit in the middle 😉

What do other people enjoy shooting using Kodachrome 64?
For a moment there I thought you asked why, not what, so I'll tell you why first. It's the most stunningly beautiful film that's ever been made (the K25 version was even better, but that's long gone), and I partly use it simply because it's there - it won't be around forever, so I want to use it as much as I can while I can (and I can't really complain when when it's gone if I wasn't using it very much). And I won't let the lengthy turnaround from the UK to Dwayne's via Switzerland put me off.

What do I shoot? Mostly outdoor things in Thailand, including street shooting. I also shoot B&W here, but the light and colour here deserve Kodachrome. (Back in the UK though, I'm mostly a 400 ISO B&W man).
 
I'll second that, Kodachrome II asa 25 is the most natural resolving reversal film ever for UK usage. However I always used Agfa CT18 50 asa in the Alps. I found Agfa more suited to altitude resolution. As both are no longer available UK I now use Fuji Velvia 50 asa. A very beautiful film but care is needed with it to avoid too much colour saturation. Like you Alan, I also use B&W FP4 Ilford post paid processing however I am looking to get back into D&P as there seems to be alot of darkrooms going begging out there
 
However I always used Agfa CT18 50 asa in the Alps. I found Agfa more suited to altitude resolution. As both are no longer available UK I now use Fuji Velvia 50 asa. A very beautiful film but care is needed with it to avoid too much colour saturation
Yes, I've used CT18 in the past too, and I liked it a lot (much better than their CT21, I thought). I love Velvia 50 too, but as you say it needs care to avoid oversaturation and excess contrast. I find it's just too much for the colours of Thailand, and the contrast is just too much for the very bright tropical light you can get here. Sensia works well here though.
 
In contrasty light, K64 is next to impossible to scan. As said above, darks go really really dark.
here's one i made at 3000m altitude (sun was still up); cropped vertically a bit.
 

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K64 Grain

K64 Grain

The last time I used K64 was in the mid 1980's. Has the formulation of the film changed at all since then? What I mean is has the grain come down at all. I believe the old K64 had a grain RMS of 12. Considering all the newer E6 100 speed films are in around 7 and 8, I'm curious if Kodak has changed K64 since then.

Thanks!
 
The last time I used K64 was in the mid 1980's. Has the formulation of the film changed at all since then? What I mean is has the grain come down at all. I believe the old K64 had a grain RMS of 12. Considering all the newer E6 100 speed films are in around 7 and 8, I'm curious if Kodak has changed K64 since then.

Kodachrome 64 does show grain, but you really have to blow it up to be significant. The various Fuji slide films do show tighter grain than K64. I daresay that Sensia 200 has less apparent grain than does K64. They are both very fine grain compared to the various Ektachromes of years gone by.

I might disagree with the statement that Kodachrome is difficult to scan. I've never had trouble getting a good scan out of a properly-exposed slide, Kodachrome or whatever. Scanned K64 can make a stunning 13x19!
 
Has anyone tried shooting Kodachrome at a faster speed and then push the film? What did you do, and what were the results? Thanks.

I do not shoot K64 as much as I used to preferring the faster K200. Recently I pushed K200 to 400 ISO. It came out excellent but cost an additional $10 (US) per roll to process the push.


K64 is one of the best films ever, but needs to be used with fast lenses (preferrably) or adequate light.
 
The first dot after 50 is 64 but a lot of people shoot Kodachrome at 80. Steve McCurry I believe shoots or shot this way. Shoot at 1/30 or 1/15 thats what rangefinders are for. I do mostly street and doc work and shoot 90% of the time with Kodachrome and I'm usually around 1/60 or 1/30. I was recently in India where I shot with my R3M w/40mm on Kodachrome at slower shutter speeds. http://www.flickr.com/photos/mr_robot/

Kodachrome takes some getting used to but keep at it and you will be grateful you did.
 
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