Shooting Kodachrome?

[varjag]

I'd like the folks who have some experience with it to chime in here.

Am planning my first serious photo story in last 2 years this September. Not being much of a color shooter (less than 15 color rolls/year), still decided to go with color as the subject lends itself to it.

I've got a couple of K64 rolls so far. The initial plan is to figure out color rendition of my lenses and work out logistics with Dwayne's. KM shooters, what was rendition with old single-coated lenses vs. modern MC lenses in your experience? Would love to see some samples too.

Are there any correction filters commonly used with Kodachrome? I noticed there's a fair amount of blue cast in bright daylight, and that would be common lighting condition.

The plan is to stock with a few bricks of fresh K64.. would love to try the 25 one, but it is priced to the sky now. Was also thinking about some Kodachrome 200 for low-light situations. Question, is 200 ISO version worth it at all? It's OK if it's just bigger grain, but I strive for same gamut as slower versions.

Also, if anyone have recently sent Kodachrome for processing from Europe, I'd like to know your experiences and turn-around times.

 

[Mike Richards]

Try ISO 80

Try ISO 80

I shot a lot of K64 some years ago, so can't comment on current status. I did get the best projection results by shooting at ISO 80 -- about a quarter stop underexposed. Years later, I've scanned a lot of the old slides, and I'm still convinced ISO 80 is the best overall rating. Highlights are preserved, loss of shadow detail is minimal, and the color saturation is excellent, even without adjustments.

I've tried K25, and it's virtually grainless for practical purposes. But unless you are planning on mural sized prints, any grain differences are moot. Since you are doing a story, I assume you will have smaller prints for magazine reproduction or average sized (e.g. A4 or 8 x 10) prints. K64 should do you just fine.

 

[varjag]

Thanks Mike!

I intend the chromes for scanning, not projection, but I understand the advice about underexposing a bit still holds.

I noticed Dwayne lists push processing for Kodachrome, I guess it makes sense only with 200 version?

 

[angeloks]

I'm not so sure about the processing in Europe, I think you had to send it in Switzerland. Here in Canada, it takes about 2 weeks and costs around 15$. For what I know, my minilab sends it to Kodak in Toronto.

Here's a few shots I took with some Kodachrome 64 :

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/167/476442521_f2eaae7f8b_o.jpg
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/184/476431302_fe9dacc59f_o.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2018/1888923310_1c15b858d7_o.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2340/1888927822_27620e96ee_o.jpg

 

[varjag]

Julien, thanks for the samples.

I think the Swiss lab has been closed down now, and they just forward the stuff to Kodak/Dwayne's.

 

[mackigator]

I have some K25 in the freezer that I hope to shoot this Spring. I read somewhere that you can drop it off at Walmart (they send it off) in the US. Still true?

 

[thafred]

Hi, I shot two rolls of Kodachrome 200 last summer and the turnaround time her in austria is about 3-5weeks. they are send to Texas for processing I was told.

K200 this is the sweetest, best looking color film I ever handled, very unique looking. I will keep the few rolls I aquired for really important stuff (and looking forward to try the K64 i have 🙂

have fun shooting yours!

 

[dmr]

I'd like the folks who have some experience with it to chime in here.

Well, I shot a lot of the old K25, and lately over the past few years a number of rolls of K64, so I'll give you my not so humble opinions. 🙂

KM shooters, what was rendition with old single-coated lenses vs. modern MC lenses in your experience? Would love to see some samples too.

I'm assuming that the Mamiya and the GIII that I have are single-coated. I know the normal lens on the Pentax is SMC, but I seldom use it. All of my recent Kodachromes are with one or the other of the rangefinders.

As for samples, this blog page has some recent (last fall) on it, all with the GIII (single coated, I assume) and all in more or less normal daylight.

http://omababe.blogspot.com/2007/12/chicago-in-kodachrome.html

Are there any correction filters commonly used with Kodachrome? I noticed there's a fair amount of blue cast in bright daylight, and that would be common lighting condition.

I've never used a filter for Kodachrome. It's balanced for daylight and always looks normal to me in all daylight situations. Kodachrome does have its own look, and some threads over on APUG were saying that Kodachrome has some distinctly different response characteristics compared to the familiar C41 and E6 films.

If you're used to shooting B&W negative film, the one thing is that Kodachrome can't take a joke as far as exposure is concerned. It has to be accurate. It's very easy to blow out highlights or drop shadows into the mud!

 

[varjag]

thafred, where do you mail it for processing, Switzerland? Or you have pre-paid mailers?

dmr, thanks for the samples. And yeah I know how to expose chromes in general, most of the color I shot was transparency. Just never tried this K-thing before.

 

[MartinP]

The pre-paid mailers which I have had in the last few years (here in the Netherlands) have all gone to the old Swiss address, from there they are bulk shipped to Dwaynes, which is the only public Kodachrome lab in the world according to Kodak. It would also be possible to send directly to Dwaynes if you don't have mailers of course - the charges etc are on their website.

I haven't used much Kodachrome, but I think I recalled that K64 was slightly darker in the shadows than K25, all other things being equal. For exposures over five seconds, on K64, I also used a slightly warm CC filter, but I can't remember exactly what. Those details are on the Kodak site I expect.

I have never used the 200 speed version unfortunately.

 

[ChadHahn]

I have some K25 in the freezer that I hope to shoot this Spring. I read somewhere that you can drop it off at Walmart (they send it off) in the US. Still true?

I sent off a roll through Wal*Mart last week. They still do it and it is still very cheap.

 

[Trius]

My experience with both K25 & K64 is that 1/3 stop underexposure is the "normal" EI for these films (i.e., EI 32 & EI 80), as Mike states. That said, your meter adjustment, brightness range of scene, reflectance of the major subject(s) may affect how you meter/expose. I have noticed that on my Olympus 35SP, box rating is actually better for K64 in most situations.

This photo is K25 and was taken ca. 1976, so I am pretty sure it was with a single-coated OM/Zuiko, almost certainly EI32.

Large size is here.

 

[gdi]

Nice shot Trius!

And as long as we are showing Kodachromes 🙂

From the 80's...

 

[varjag]

So 1/3 stop underexposure seems common then. Thanks for samples folks, keep 'em coming 🙂

 

[IGMeanwell]

I'll add to the mix

BTW I think at this point all labs just have the mailers forwarded to Dwayne's, even the Swiss labs

I also agree about the 1/3 to 1/2 a stop on these....

So here is a shot with a multicoated lens, Yashica T4 KR 64

Bigger version here: http://flickr.com/photos/pnettlet/2216454601/sizes/l/in/set-72157600841096954/

 

[thafred]

thafred, where do you mail it for processing, Switzerland? Or you have pre-paid mailers?

I use the prepaid Mailers but put them into the Kodak Envelope of our local Drug store (DM Drogerie markt) they are send to Kodak Austria and they forward it to Dwayne´s. takes about 3 weeks that way (I have to pick them up at the Drug store again)

once I gave the Prepaid mailer to a local photo store and the slides were deliverd to my home after 4 weeks.

examples: all Kodachrome 200, shot with Leica Summicron-C 40mm

the detail in the original scans is fantastic. also the dirty textures from Kodachrome got me hooked!

 

[whitecat]

I always shot my 64@80. When the 200 came out, I stopped using the film....too grainy. Last time I used Dwayne's there was alot of dust on the transparencies. When I grew up in Chicago, I remember there was a Kodak facility 2 blocks from my apt. I used to drop them off and pick them up the same day. They were in white plastic mounts with a giant Kodachrome marked on them. About 2 bucks.This was 45 yrs ago!

 

[kino eye]

I only shoot with K64. K25 and K200 have now been discontinued but I believe Dwayne's still has some 200 for sale. They will develop all 3 still. No matter where you are in the world I would send your film straight to them. They are the only one left in the world who still develops it so no mater what it will end up there. You will take more risks sending it through a 3rd party. I’ve found Dwayne’s to be very quick and great service. Tell them about your project and I’m sure they will be more than happy to help you out. They may be able to help you buy all your rolls from the same batch.

I've heard a 3rd of a stop under is/was a pretty common shooting style. I understand that this is how Steve McCurry (National Geographic Afghan Girl) always shot. His site and pretty much any National Geographic pre 2002 is a great example for Kodachrome. Before most pros moved to digital Kodachrome was the only excepted film by the editors (so I'm told). I've always shot rated at 64 and tend to under expose by half a stop. It is a notoriously tricky film to get the exposure right on so make sure your meter is accurate and/or use a good hand held meter. I will try to post some samples of stuff I’ve shot. I’m heading to India in a few weeks and only shooting Kodachrome so I will have more to post later.

I shoot on a Bessa R3M with a 40mm Nokton F1.4. It’s a multi-coated lens but I also use a B&W Haze filter. I used to shoot on older Canon FD lens' from the 70’s and have found the Nokton much better. I would go with an MC lens and a good hood. From what I have seen there is not much difference between the SC and MC Nokotn 40mm other than less lens flare on the MC. Plus you can always tweak the look in post to get where you want.

Scanning tends to be a little a tricky with Kodachome. Many people recommend the Nikon scanners as they have a Kodachrome setting, but from what I’ve found on the web the better way to go is to calibrate your scanner with a Kodachrome target that you can get from B&H photo for around $50 and scanning software like Sliverfast. I’ve yet to do this and just scan on my Epson 4990 which seems to do a decent job. I just colour correct in Photoshop to get rid of the blue/purple cast and add an unsharp mask. If you can I would get them drum scanned and if you aren’t super experienced with Photoshop find a good retoucher who can get the colours right.

If you haven’t already google Kodachrome and you can find more info. You may to dig a little though. Flickr has a Kodachrome group if you’re looking for examples. Kodak also has technical info on their site that you can download as a PDF.

Have fun with it, as sadly it doesn’t look like it will be around too much longer.

 

[Trius]

So 1/3 stop underexposure seems common then. Thanks for samples folks, keep 'em coming 🙂

K25, OM, Zuiko 100/2.8 single coated
Teen Ranch, Orangeville, Ontario, Great White North.

 

[Morca007]

All this recent talk about kodachrome, and it's impending demise has me itching to shoot some. I may have to blow some of my film money on it. I'll just have to be extra careful exposing each frame because of the cost. 😀