Shooting like Shorpy

Great suggestions, they really give me a lot to work with. My current MF rig is a Bronica SQ-A which unfortunately doesn't support classic lenses (of course this seems like great reasoning to experiment with an older MF rig, or more realistically use my Yashicamat EM). I think I have some Cyan/Blue filter tests and some exposure/dev tests coming up.

Thanks again!
 
To those that keep giving digital and post processing solutions, I thought this thread on how to get the LF film look on smaller film? There are so many people "playing with trying to get the look of [wetplate, petzval lenses, kodachrome, early B&W film...etc]" I guess it's the gaming generation, who would rather simulate driving a race car, going to war, than to actually, physically, DO something. Instagram gives a laughable "old timey" look too. You can simulate the look poorly, or actually get the look with the same techniques used in the 1930s.

Let's stick with what the OP asked, optimizing and adjusting film.
 
lynnb said:
Just out of curiosity I played around with a digital file that has similar light and subject to see if I could get close to the film look. The first pair of pictures are the 5D digital original and an adjusted colour temperature version; then a "straight" bw conversion of the original followed by the adjusted version in bw.

This is the service station at a small rural town, Emmaville, in NSW.
Click to expand...

yep, it's only colour balance and contrast after all ... it's easy enough to replicate in photoshop
 
Hi Garrett, the aim of the digital examples was to figure out which filters to use with modern film, to emulate the characteristics of old emulsions. I could do the same with bw film and filter sets, but that would take several weeks to post the results here, and it's easier to experiment and demonstrate the principles using digital.

Cheers,
Lynn
 
goamules said:
To those that keep giving digital and post processing solutions, I thought this thread on how to get the LF film look on smaller film? There are so many people "playing with trying to get the look of [wetplate, petzval lenses, kodachrome, early B&W film...etc]" I guess it's the gaming generation, who would rather simulate driving a race car, going to war, than to actually, physically, DO something. Instagram gives a laughable "old timey" look too. You can simulate the look poorly, or actually get the look with the same techniques used in the 1930s.

Let's stick with what the OP asked, optimizing and adjusting film.
Click to expand...


you are a seriously obnoxious person..... "the gaming generation??" . . . I'm 70 !!
 
You can get the results of the second Image from your Bronica without too much difficulty use T-max 100 yes a very modern film expose it at E.I. 50 and use a yellow filter maybe you can find an uncoated one. You should then develop it in a pyro developer (Moersch Tanol, Sandy King's Pyrocat, Jay De Fehr's Hypercat,etc..) controlling the highlights is really were pyro shines imo. As an alternative to pyro pre Flash or pre fog the paper in the darkroom for more info read Les Macleans article http://www.lesmcleanphotography.com/articles.php?page=full&article=27

gns thank you for the link interesting work.
 
lynnb said:
quick and dirty test using LR blue filter on an old Kodachrome:
15879114694_6343ca0703_o.jpg
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... that looks pretty good to me actually
 
I can't stand those old timers that are always gaming in bingo halls, and Vegas! There, how's that?

But seriously, I come across harsh when I see a post go off on a tangent....which they almost all seem to do....so I guess I'm often sounding harsh.
 
lynnb said:
Hi Garrett, the aim of the digital examples was to figure out which filters to use with modern film, to emulate the characteristics of old emulsions. I could do the same with bw film and filter sets, but that would take several weeks to post the results here, and it's easier to experiment and demonstrate the principles using digital.

Cheers,
Lynn
Click to expand...

Lynn, I'm with you.
That is a good use of the digital technology in photography.

15880541824_00a0c29246_c.jpg


This is the scan of color film shots (expired Fuji 800 ProZ). Add blue, desaturate, lower contrast, add warmth.

In my darkroom, in which I use a color-head enlarger, I'd dial the yellow filter to lower the contrast and then expose the second time to add in the black details as much as I want (I made this sounds simple, in reality, i'd be spending 1 hr to get the look that i want, but I came out happy as a clam)
 
VTHokiEE said:
Do you have a readily available example of this? I think I have a blue filter lying around that I had no idea what to do with.
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A #47 blue would mimic blue sensitive films. True ortho films saw a much wide portion of the spectrum. You'll need a filter that block red and the lower end of yellow portion of the spectrum while passing blue, green and some yellow.

If your "blue filter lying around" is an 80 or 82 series light balancing filter it will have an almost undetectable affect on B&W images.
 
When I want to do this type of photo which is often, I use Tmax100 at 50, HC-110h, and a Yellow filter. These were done with an Olympus Stylus Infinity (35mm) and no filter. As someone said above; long tonal range and added contrast with a yellow filter.



Sardis by carter3john, on Flickr


Sun on the Chimineys by carter3john, on Flickr

EDIT: Also, shoot on very clear days; in the 30s, 40s, 50s there was very little smog.
EDIT2: Use a normal lens when I've tried this with a super wide the effect fails. I do have an old Super Takumar screw mount 28mm f3.5 that handles this well, my other 28mm and 20mm don't.
 
Dwig said:
A #47 blue would mimic blue sensitive films. True ortho films saw a much wide portion of the spectrum. You'll need a filter that block red and the lower end of yellow portion of the spectrum while passing blue, green and some yellow.

If your "blue filter lying around" is an 80 or 82 series light balancing filter it will have an almost undetectable affect on B&W images.
Click to expand...


... you do realise that filters are actually absorbing their complementary colour don't you? ... what you're describing there is the opposite
 
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