nikola
Well-known
Here's the thing... I would love to shoot street (people in every day surrounding) wide open (@1.7) with my Ultron... during the day (mostly on open in bright to partly cloudy weather)!
(I'm shooting primarily Ilford PAN400) (...cause I have it
)
1. I suppose that I would need some ND filter (0.9) and was thinking about adding color filter on top of it... maybe red #90 (Does this together makes 5 stops? ...running shutter in 500-2000 range?)?
2. Red would make people faces bright and white??? Would it be too extreme or wrong, maybe something subtler like orange or yellow? I don't have any experience with filters (and can't find decent example online).
3. One more thing... would I risk to much stacking two filters on top of each other in terms of quality and UFOs? Should I invest more and buy MC filters, cca 40$ vs 25$?
4. Where can I find cheapest (possibly in EU), should they be B+W or I can save some money with cheaper ones?
Too many questions I know, but they are smart questions! :angel:
(I'm shooting primarily Ilford PAN400) (...cause I have it
)1. I suppose that I would need some ND filter (0.9) and was thinking about adding color filter on top of it... maybe red #90 (Does this together makes 5 stops? ...running shutter in 500-2000 range?)?
2. Red would make people faces bright and white??? Would it be too extreme or wrong, maybe something subtler like orange or yellow? I don't have any experience with filters (and can't find decent example online).
3. One more thing... would I risk to much stacking two filters on top of each other in terms of quality and UFOs? Should I invest more and buy MC filters, cca 40$ vs 25$?
4. Where can I find cheapest (possibly in EU), should they be B+W or I can save some money with cheaper ones?
Too many questions I know, but they are smart questions! :angel:
T
Todd.Hanz
Guest
An ND 4 would do the trick I suppose.
George Bonanno
Well-known
I don't think using (stacking) filters is a good solution. I've typically used Efka KB 25 rated at ISO 12 developed in Rodinal 1:25 for 7 minutes. It works for me however your mileage may vary.
Best,
George
Best,
George
Anupam
Well-known
Why not shoot slow film? I shoot TMX @ EI 64. That with a 2-3 stop ND, or even a polariser should do it.
-A
-A
40oz
...
slow film is far cheaper than filters. For the price of a good filter you can get a 100' roll of Pan F or PlusX.
T
Todd.Hanz
Guest
I shoot a 50 'lux with an ND2, Acros at 100 and can shoot most images at 1.4 if I want to, I find f4 to be a bit better for street though.
Todd
Todd
George Bonanno
Well-known
Correction...
Correction...
I neglected to mention in post No.3 that the developer temperature I use is 65º with two tank inversions once per minute. The Rodinal dilution is 1:31... not 1:25. After looking at my notes on de-rating Ekfa 25 by one stop I thought this was necessary to mention. I use this process so the film gets a longer development time which results in even development without blocked highlights. Also, if the negs are too dense or snappy after experimenting with this process try diluting the Rodinal at 1:50 or more, i.e. 1:64, 1:100. Like I said... your mileage may vary.
Personally, I take an interest in the visual effect of using Ekfa KB 25 film rated at ISO 12. It seems this film has an overall attractive fine grain and a bit of a light piping effect on the upper zones. Probably due too the extended exposure and or the film not having an anti-halation base. In any case, the visual effect is very different from the mundane appearance of modern film, not to be confused with the so called "vintage glow (tarnished lens) look".
Best,
George
Correction...
I neglected to mention in post No.3 that the developer temperature I use is 65º with two tank inversions once per minute. The Rodinal dilution is 1:31... not 1:25. After looking at my notes on de-rating Ekfa 25 by one stop I thought this was necessary to mention. I use this process so the film gets a longer development time which results in even development without blocked highlights. Also, if the negs are too dense or snappy after experimenting with this process try diluting the Rodinal at 1:50 or more, i.e. 1:64, 1:100. Like I said... your mileage may vary.
Personally, I take an interest in the visual effect of using Ekfa KB 25 film rated at ISO 12. It seems this film has an overall attractive fine grain and a bit of a light piping effect on the upper zones. Probably due too the extended exposure and or the film not having an anti-halation base. In any case, the visual effect is very different from the mundane appearance of modern film, not to be confused with the so called "vintage glow (tarnished lens) look".
Best,
George
lZr
L&M
Nikola, use your 400 ASA stuff, no filters. So, 1/1000 or 1/2000, why not? Can you find any reason not using fast shutter speed? I know you have R3 camera.
Do it first, and check results. Good luck. I want to see the photos
Do it first, and check results. Good luck. I want to see the photos
nikola
Well-known
Using 400ISO film I was thinking of having more versatile solution to rapid changing light especially now in winter... and when I go out I tend to be out, whole day. ...and having 2s (Red), 3s (ND) and 2+3=5(R+ND) compensation would be nice.
I'm talking of 1.7 just as an extreme situation, in reality there would be variation of 1.7 - 4.
Working in range of 11-15EV with 400ISO film and aperture at 1.7, would leave me in this range of speeds: 1/2900 - 1/46000 ...so I would need compensation of 1 - 5 stops just to get in R3A shutter range of operation.
Can I see some examples?
Does anyone use filters with B&W (examples)?
Thanks
...and having 2s (Red), 3s (ND) and 2+3=5(R+ND) compensation would be nice.I'm talking of 1.7 just as an extreme situation, in reality there would be variation of 1.7 - 4.
Working in range of 11-15EV with 400ISO film and aperture at 1.7, would leave me in this range of speeds: 1/2900 - 1/46000 ...so I would need compensation of 1 - 5 stops just to get in R3A shutter range of operation.
Can I see some examples?
Does anyone use filters with B&W (examples)?
Thanks
lZr
L&M
Here's the thing... I would love to shoot street (people in every day surrounding) wide open (@1.7) with my Ultron... during the day (mostly on open in bright to partly cloudy weather)!
I can't see how you get to 1/4000 in this situation. Anyhow, you can step up to 1/2000 and be happy as I am. 1 stop up or down is not big deal with film. Of course, software can tolerate the situation if needed. But, your pedant approach is valuable.
My milage is different. I can shot fast without paying **** to my Bessa R meter.
And believe me, my light is much more bright.
I can't see how you get to 1/4000 in this situation. Anyhow, you can step up to 1/2000 and be happy as I am. 1 stop up or down is not big deal with film. Of course, software can tolerate the situation if needed. But, your pedant approach is valuable.
My milage is different. I can shot fast without paying **** to my Bessa R meter.
And believe me, my light is much more bright.
clarence
ダメ
Croatians must be very lucky to get so much light. Here in England...
Clarence
Clarence
lZr
L&M
1/2000 f/2.5 (nothing in connection to the Bessa meter)
(Perhaps 1/8000 meter exposure)
I can confess, the blue door is shifted blue a little bit)
Edit: I forgot to say - Superia 400 film. Your film is much more forgive.
Last edited:
wyk_penguin
Well-known
Using the great exposure slide rule from Rick Oleson, f/1.8 at 1/2000 for full sun requires ISO 25 film. I would say shoot away with ISO 50 film. Of course with an orange filter you loose 1 stop (ISO 400 becomes like ISO 200), so you can play around with your 2-3 stop exposure latitude and get away with usuable negatives.
Last edited:
Keith
The best camera is one that still works!
Hi Nikola .... I'm curious as to why you want to shoot street style wide open. What are your aims and what type of images are you wanting to achieve that leads you to persue this method?
Murray Kelly
Well-known
The door picture remids me of a Klee modernist painting.
I like it.
Murray
Brisbane. Oz
I like it.
Murray
Brisbane. Oz
thafred
silver addict
nikola said:Using 400ISO film I was thinking of having more versatile solution to rapid changing light especially now in winter... and when I go out I tend to be out, whole day.
I'm talking of 1.7 just as an extreme situation, in reality there would be variation of 1.7 - 4.
Working in range of 11-15EV with 400ISO film and aperture at 1.7, would leave me in this range of speeds: 1/2900 - 1/46000 ...so I would need compensation of 1 - 5 stops just to get in R3A shutter range of operation.
Can I see some examples?
Does anyone use filters with B&W (examples)?
Thanks
I use ASA 100 or 200 films with ND8 or Deep Red filters.. works very well for shooting low DOF Street shots.. .
It´s very hard thou really nailing the shot with focus...plus you are kinda limited to Street portraits. (oh well that´s what I would call my pictures with this technique)
You asked for examples?
Deep red with Nokton 50mm:
ND8 also with Nokton 50mm:
nikola
Well-known
thafred, spot on!
this is it!
Love the last one!
So deep red should be enough? How much stops this filter takes... 3?
I'm now thinking adding more details in shades with orange or light red and 3stop ND, I'm still not sure how would behave two stacked filters in practice?
Budget wise I'm now sure of one deep red B+W filter. I saw 39mm ones in Robert White shop for about 50$, he is a reliable chap is he?
this is it!
Love the last one!
So deep red should be enough? How much stops this filter takes... 3?
I'm now thinking adding more details in shades with orange or light red and 3stop ND, I'm still not sure how would behave two stacked filters in practice?
Budget wise I'm now sure of one deep red B+W filter. I saw 39mm ones in Robert White shop for about 50$, he is a reliable chap is he?
Pherdinand
the snow must go on
don't stack filters.
Especially non-multicoated filters.
Back-and-forth reflections will destroy most but the luckiest shots.
Shooting wide open can be nice but you must focus very well. This means a well-set focus on the lens+camera and a well-working focusing device (hand and eye).
Especially non-multicoated filters.
Back-and-forth reflections will destroy most but the luckiest shots.
Shooting wide open can be nice but you must focus very well. This means a well-set focus on the lens+camera and a well-working focusing device (hand and eye).
crawdiddy
qu'est-ce que c'est?
lZr said:
Love this shot, IZr. It's luminous.
thafred
silver addict
pherdinand is right, don´t stack filters!! I made a huge lens test lately trying to compare my Nokton 40mm to the Cron-C 40mm at all f-stops and also did shots with and without filters to test for Flare and reflections. Even with the B&W MRC UV filters I could see a slight differnce in clarity and the flare is somewhat increased also (very mildly) ..it´s just the price to pay for 2 extra air/glass surfaces infront of the lens. i wouldnt want 4 air/glass surfaces (2filters) even considering Multicoating and such infront of my precious lens (1 filter is ok to keep the lens precious ;-)
When I started using UV filters infront of my lenses I walked into a viennese camera store (the owner is known to be of the direct type) and asked them for the cheapest filters possible because I thought I´ll only want to use them in rain/bad weather...the owner nearly kicked me out shouting "we dont´t sell sh1t!" and after a loong explanation why it is important not to use window glass on 500$ lenses (duh!) I took the bite and bought B&W MRC...after a year of heavy usage the don´t even show a single scratch or mark! I love them
don´t get cheap on this stuff..with 39mm you can use the filters with lot´s of different Leica and VC lenses so it makes sense to invest a bit more initialy and save later whe you don´t need to buy new ones ;-)
(just looked it up...the B&W filters i bought were between 15 and 25€ in Vienna)
Shooting wide open with the M6 is allready hard enough so be prepared for alot oof shots with the bessa in fast situations.. when shooting slowly the bessa is well suited. (had my Bessa R with me in Croatia last summer and used the Nokton50 with ND8..no problems!)
cheers
When I started using UV filters infront of my lenses I walked into a viennese camera store (the owner is known to be of the direct type) and asked them for the cheapest filters possible because I thought I´ll only want to use them in rain/bad weather...the owner nearly kicked me out shouting "we dont´t sell sh1t!" and after a loong explanation why it is important not to use window glass on 500$ lenses (duh!) I took the bite and bought B&W MRC...after a year of heavy usage the don´t even show a single scratch or mark! I love them
don´t get cheap on this stuff..with 39mm you can use the filters with lot´s of different Leica and VC lenses so it makes sense to invest a bit more initialy and save later whe you don´t need to buy new ones ;-)
(just looked it up...the B&W filters i bought were between 15 and 25€ in Vienna)
Shooting wide open with the M6 is allready hard enough so be prepared for alot oof shots with the bessa in fast situations.. when shooting slowly the bessa is well suited. (had my Bessa R with me in Croatia last summer and used the Nokton50 with ND8..no problems!)
cheers