blw
Well-known
Turning the ISO all the way up might also get the intended result...like you say, that depends on the amount of ambient light available. A dark room at 1000 ISO isn't a whole lot less dark than at 100 ISO, in a sense. But certainly if you have enough light and you get the over-expose button, won't it be capped at the mechanical limit of 1/500th?
Of course stopping motion might depend on your subject, etc. I've had fun results going the other direction with the shutter and using flash- such as setting the camera to bulb and holding the shutter open a second or so after the flash pops. Cool motion trails...I think this works well for live rock music photos anyway.
Of course stopping motion might depend on your subject, etc. I've had fun results going the other direction with the shutter and using flash- such as setting the camera to bulb and holding the shutter open a second or so after the flash pops. Cool motion trails...I think this works well for live rock music photos anyway.
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Vics
Veteran
Ken Rockwell has a nice page on this camera HERE The thing to remember is that since the camera has a leaf shutter, it should synch with the flash at any of its speeds. I shoot flash (with a 283) in my Leica at a 1/30 because it has a focal plane shutter and that's the highest speed MY shutter will synch at. All motion of objects that are lit by my flash will have their motion stopped, because the duration of the flash is so short. Just try setting the aperture on the camera at say, f8, and set the dial on the 283 accordingly, and voila! Sharp, properly-lit pictures! It might take some practice, but try it! You'll like it!
Vics
Veteran
PS, Ken's page even has instructions for the use of the 283 with your camera.
LunoLuno
Member
Get either a GX or a GL, and your problem will be all solved.
The FPS (Flash Pulse Selector) system on these two newer Electros are one of the major advantages over the original Electros, even when you don't have a dedicated flash. The CDS metering cells on the original Electros just can't react fast enough with the flash pulse, which is usually 1/2000s duration or much faster. That's why they don't close the shutter even when there is sufficient amount of light emitted from the flash, and hence they have the 1/30s flash mode.
On the other hand, the newer SPD metering cells on the GX and the GL can react fast enough even with the flash pulse, and the shutter is closed as soon as the metering cell senses sufficient amount of light emitted from the flash, and that is 1/500s, the fastest shutter speed. When there is not sufficient amount of light from the flash, the shutter is left open until the metering cell detects enough light from the ambient light (up to 1/30 at the longest in this case).
So, get either a GX or a GL, if 1/500s automatic sync is such a importance for you......
BTW, I checked with my GL, and it triggered without a battery.
The FPS (Flash Pulse Selector) system on these two newer Electros are one of the major advantages over the original Electros, even when you don't have a dedicated flash. The CDS metering cells on the original Electros just can't react fast enough with the flash pulse, which is usually 1/2000s duration or much faster. That's why they don't close the shutter even when there is sufficient amount of light emitted from the flash, and hence they have the 1/30s flash mode.
On the other hand, the newer SPD metering cells on the GX and the GL can react fast enough even with the flash pulse, and the shutter is closed as soon as the metering cell senses sufficient amount of light emitted from the flash, and that is 1/500s, the fastest shutter speed. When there is not sufficient amount of light from the flash, the shutter is left open until the metering cell detects enough light from the ambient light (up to 1/30 at the longest in this case).
So, get either a GX or a GL, if 1/500s automatic sync is such a importance for you......
BTW, I checked with my GL, and it triggered without a battery.
Field
Well-known
Yup I want to get another one that is not a GSN now... That or if someone can tell if me if the PC link works without battery on the GSN.
I will still consider modifying mine. I mean the funny part is the GS can become a GSN with a small modification for a hotshoe.
I am aware of Ken. However my personal taste for flash photography that I want to accomplish is not fill flash all of the time, only a little bit when asked to shoot something for someone do I need it.
I will still consider modifying mine. I mean the funny part is the GS can become a GSN with a small modification for a hotshoe.
I am aware of Ken. However my personal taste for flash photography that I want to accomplish is not fill flash all of the time, only a little bit when asked to shoot something for someone do I need it.
Field
Well-known
PC link does not work on GSN without battery. I wonder why the GS/GT does?