AlexBG
Well-known
As per the title, thought I had B+W in the camera, I did set the dial on the back of the M3 but must have forgot and made a mistake. Shot a whole rol with a yellow filter on with 400 iso portra.
I'm thinking either process as B+W or just get scans and edit in lightroom?
Anyone messed up like me?
I'm thinking either process as B+W or just get scans and edit in lightroom?
Anyone messed up like me?
brennanphotoguy
Well-known
I did this exact same thing with my Rollei a few months ago. My buddy working at the lab got most of it out in the scan and the people who color correct my stuff got the rest of it out entirely.
Pentode
Well-known
I'm pretty messed up, but I don't know if I'm messed up like you! 
Depending upon the subject matter, I might be inclined to see what it looks like and make adjustments as brennanphotoguy suggests.
Processing color film as B&W usually means you'd have to shoot it at a reduced EI. If you process it in color as-is, you have the option of either correcting the balance in post or just converting to B&W while still having proper exposures. And if any of the images look interesting with the yellow filter, you've gotten an added bonus.
Depending upon the subject matter, I might be inclined to see what it looks like and make adjustments as brennanphotoguy suggests.
Processing color film as B&W usually means you'd have to shoot it at a reduced EI. If you process it in color as-is, you have the option of either correcting the balance in post or just converting to B&W while still having proper exposures. And if any of the images look interesting with the yellow filter, you've gotten an added bonus.
froyd
Veteran
Are the following equivalent?
Normally, if I'm in a pinch and I use color film in lieu of BW emulsion, I scan it as color and convert later so I have more flexibility with the conversion by tweaking each color.
Color negative w/yellow filter, scanned as color and converted to BW
=
Color negative w/yellow filter, scanned as BW
=
BW negative w/ yellow filter, scanned as BW
=
Color negative w/yellow filter, scanned as BW
=
BW negative w/ yellow filter, scanned as BW
Normally, if I'm in a pinch and I use color film in lieu of BW emulsion, I scan it as color and convert later so I have more flexibility with the conversion by tweaking each color.
rogue_designer
Reciprocity Failure
Edit in LR if you want color images. Treat it as you might converting tungsten to daylight. (Or make a custom white/grey balance to use if you prefer.)
Otherwise, it will make fine BW images.
Otherwise, it will make fine BW images.
rulnacco
Well-known
Try it and see what you get--colour neg film has quite a bit of latitude for adjustments in printing/scanning.
Not only that, one of my favourite sports photographers, Walter Iooss, frequently shot Fuji Astia (which of course *doesn't* allow much monkeying around with the colour as it's baked in with transparency film) with an 85 (orange) filter and got very interesting effects. So you might actually find you like the look of what you get, even if it is out of the ordinary.
Not only that, one of my favourite sports photographers, Walter Iooss, frequently shot Fuji Astia (which of course *doesn't* allow much monkeying around with the colour as it's baked in with transparency film) with an 85 (orange) filter and got very interesting effects. So you might actually find you like the look of what you get, even if it is out of the ordinary.
charjohncarter
Veteran
I'd develop color, scan and either try Color Perfect or if you don't want to buy that find a white area on the scan and use color cast correction.
This is how an under exposed transparency was scanned on my scanner:
ColorPerfect rescue by John Carter, on Flickr
And this is the result with one click in Color Perfect:
ColorPerfect rescue by John Carter, on Flickr
This is how an under exposed transparency was scanned on my scanner:
ColorPerfect rescue by John Carter, on FlickrAnd this is the result with one click in Color Perfect:
ColorPerfect rescue by John Carter, on Flickr
Dwig
Well-known
It somewhat depends on what "yellow" filter, but I would NEVER recommend processing in any way other than normal processing. Process normally, scan as color, and then experiment with various fixes.
If the "yellow" is a good quality classic "contrast filter", similar to a Wratten #8, then there will be no exposure in the violet/blue portion of the spectrum. Absolutely no color correction during the scan or afterward can retrieve what wasn't recorded on the film.
You might be able to achieve a reasonable color image with some extensive adjustments, but it won't be a faithful reproduction of the scene. I've not dealt with this exact issue, but I've worked with a good number of extremely faded old color images where one of the dye layers has faded to the point where there is virtually no image data, far worse than John Carter's example above. I've often be able to achieve a pleasing color image, though the colors that relied on the most heavily faded layer are not anywhere near faithful to the original objects' colors. Post-processing the scan as B&W is always a possibility, and should be able to achieve good results.