kevin m
Veteran
You'll pay a premium for those abberations, I'm afraid. And you'll have to make your offer to David Chang Sang, who now owns the lens, although I'm pretty sure he'll decline.
dannynono
Survey sez....
-- snip --Gabriel M.A. said:
Gabriel, I'm not arguing against your points, just your examples above ... the $199 and $90 items are just slipcovers for a couch and a love seat, respectively.
---
If I did have an M8 (one day perhaps) it would definitely be sporting older lenses, both leica and non-leica. Yes, the M8 is expensive and for some represents the pinnacle for rf bodies, so one might be drawn to buying nothing but the "best" lenses for it. But for me the camera body isn't necessarily as important as my eye and the lenses with which I choose to capture images may not represent the "best" on the market - they simply draw the image in a way that I find more pleasing.
I got a good deal on an M6 here back in the spring and if I could afford an M8 right now, I'd own that too - not because I think it's that much better than my M6, but because it allows me to digitally capture with those same lenses.
msendin
Member
Hacker, I own the CV15, CV40 and the CV35 Nokton. I am not going to add much about what has been said of the lenses. Only wanted to tell you that to modify the CV40 to get a 35mm frame is an easy thing to do by yourself (and necessary in my opinion). Please tell us if you need help.
tbarker13
shooter of stuff
Yes, the modification is so easy to do. All it takes is a few minutes with a metal file. If you don't have one, I'd be happy to loan you one.
rwchisholm
Established
Hacker
黑客
Gabriel M.A. said:
The answers I get is similar to this: From Point A to Point B, you are always driving at 60km/hr, so all cars will get you there, even the tires do not matter. But this is not my question; I merely want to know which car will accelearate the fastest, or which tire will hold well under speeding conidtions. The analogy is bad, but I'm trying my best.
Hacker
黑客
tbarker13 said:
This is the reason for my question. If cost is used as the yardstick, then there is no need to ask. I will merely refer to the price list. And rare items that cost a bomb will perform better based on cost alone, and depending on the price fluctutaion, the performance will vary
.
Hacker
黑客
tbarker13 said:
I take it that the flange is taken out first, separated out from the lens?
Gabriel M.A.
My Red Dot Glows For You
Damn it! Foiled again by Deception in Advertising!dannynono said:
jaapv
RFF Sponsoring Member.
Hacker said:
How would you do that
(apart from stopping down do f22) ?
Hacker
黑客
jaapv said:How would you do that
Distance plays a part.
tbarker13
shooter of stuff
You just have to file the flange that triggers the frame line selector. There are various posts on these forums that detail how to do it (some with photos). But its pretty easy to verify the mechanics yourself.
With the lens off the camera, toggle the framelines selector switch with your fingers whle looking inside the camera body. You'll see the little piece of metal that's triggered by one of the lens flanges.
Once you've identified which lens flange triggers the frame line selector, you just need to file away enough of that flange so that it no longer moves frameline selector. (the default position is 24/35) The first time I did this, I was surprised at the small amount of filing required. We're talking a milimeter or so.
One bit of advice that is probably obvious: Do the filing on the lens well away from the body. And then be sure to clean the mount of any tiny metal shavings before mounting it on the camera again. You wouldn't want any of those metal shavings in the camera body.