Should I swap my M4-P and Bessa R3A for an M6?

[rhechcapel]

Happy New Year folks!

I have (and love) an M4-P. I also have (and like a lot) a Bessa R3A.

From the M4-P I love the smooth film advance, the feel in the hand, the loading system, and the fact it makes me guess the exposure for myself. Sometimes I miss having an in-camera meter (especially when shooting colour film) and on some stocks it seems to leave a scratch in the film as it is advanced.

From the Bessa I love the 1:1 viewfinder, the in-built meter, and all the electrickery (exposure lock!). However the dependence on batteries annoys me, the film advance feels horrible compared to the Leica, and the AE mode makes me lazy.

I rarely use the Bessa since I got the M4-P.

I'm wondering if an M6 might be a smart way to combine the best bits of both cameras while losing most of the downsides?

Has anyone else made a similar move (or decided not to)?

Does the M6 meter really work well? I've heard it's heavily center weighted - is that true?

 

[Ko.Fe.]

I rarely use Bessa R2M, I purchased it as backup for M4-2.
Do you need the backup camera?


M6 seems to be overpriced, IMO.

 

[Chris101]

M6 doesn’t appeal to me, but I’m on my second M4P. I think it’s the ideal Leica and that’s because it doesn’t have a meter, or take a battery. I also have a Bessa, but it’s an L that I use with a 15mm. The Bessa does have a meter, and I like the way it works.

 

[madNbad]

Sell the Bessa, keep the M4-P. If you don’t already have one, buy a decent meter.

 

[james.liam]

M6 doesn’t appeal to me, but I’m on my second M4P. I think it’s the ideal Leica and that’s because it doesn’t have a meter, or take a battery. I also have a Bessa, but it’s an L that I use with a 15mm. The Bessa does have a meter, and I like the way it works.

An M6 doesn't need a battery to function either, essentially becoming an updated & newer M4 in a pinch. Having the meter lets me concentrate on the scene and not have to guess or stop and meter. Especially critical shooting reversal film.

 

[Rob-F]

My M4P has better, more accurate framelines than my M6 (and later) Leicas. The M6 meter, however, does give consistently good exposures. Unless the M6 meter means that much to you, you may be disappointed in an M6.

 

[rhechcapel]

My M4P has better, more accurate framelines than my M6 (and later) Leicas. The M6 meter, however, does give consistently good exposures. Unless the M6 meter means that much to you, you may be disappointed in an M6.

Interesting, I had not heard this. I'll try to do a comparison in a local shop. Thanks for the heads up.

 

[rhechcapel]

Sell the Bessa, keep the M4-P. If you don’t already have one, buy a decent meter.

I use my phone when I need confirmation of my guess. Does a dedicated meter really work that much better? I'd rather not have to carry yet another device. I could consider something camera mounted like the Voigtlander VC2, but it looks a bit fiddly and would add bulk to the M4-P.

 

[Huss]

I use my phone when I need confirmation of my guess. Does a dedicated meter really work that much better? I'd rather not have to carry yet another device. I could consider something camera mounted like the Voigtlander VC2, but it looks a bit fiddly and would add bulk to the M4-P.

Sell the Bessa, keep the M4p. The vc2 meter is tiny and not fiddly. Get it and slip it on ur camera if u need it. Otherwise keep it in ur pocket.

 

[benlees]

Keep the M4P. Prices for M6 are ridiculous and teetering into preposterous.

 

[aizan]

What are the various ways that you go out taking photos? In what scenarios do you prefer a built-in meter, handheld meter, AE, manual exposure? Then determine percentages to how much time you spend shooting in each way, and figure out what features are the most important to you.

It sounds to me like you'd prefer a built-in manual exposure meter because it's a good balance of convenience without being too "lazy." If so, the M6 is the best option out there, assuming you'd prefer it over the Leica M5 or CL, or Bessa R2.

 

[ktmrider]

If you want a meter then it is either a M5, CL, M6, M6TTL, M7 or MP. If you want a classic M, then M6 as even the M6TTL is a bit taller (2mm). If you can live without the classic body, several people here believe the M5 has it over all other Leicas as a shooter. I share that opinion if you can find a good one.

I don't care for the M6's double frame lines but that is now standard Leica (on my MP240 as well). The M5 viewfinder is busy but not as busy as M6 and spot meter is outstanding. If you can only have one and you want TTL metering and not M5, then M6 is the choice. Don't now believe or ever have, that the MP was worth the price increase over the M6.

And all my light meters are in storage somewhere so I like you have been using the light meter apps on my phone for shooting the M2 and they work surprisingly well.

 

[Rob-F]

Interesting, I had not heard this. I'll try to do a comparison in a local shop. Thanks for the heads up.

Especially pay attention to the 50mm frameline, which is dreadfully undersized at all but the shortest distances. At minimum focusing distance of 0.7M, it's accurate. But at a distance of 12 or 15 feet or greater, the M6 50mm frameline covers about the same as a 60mm lens. So it covers 83% of the width of a 50mm lens, and 83% of the height. Therefore, it covers only .83 x .83, which is only 69% of the area!

 

[nzeeman]

sell bessa and keep m4-p and get some additional lens - its much more important than body...

 

[helen.HH]

No swap
M4-P is a Wonderful camera, You enjoy it , keep it !!
Sell the Bessa since You never use it anymore

 

[rhechcapel]

Thank you for all the advice folks.

I think I'll take the Bessa out a few times and shoot it like I would the M6.
I have more bodies and lenses than I need already so selling the Bessa and getting the VC II meter makes sense. I'll see how I feel after a few days back with it.

 

[kshapero]

Keep the M4P. Prices for M6 are ridiculous and teetering into preposterous.

I agree. Learn Sunny 16. You will be better for it.

 

[rhechcapel]

Especially pay attention to the 50mm frameline, which is dreadfully undersized at all but the shortest distances. At minimum focusing distance of 0.7M, it's accurate. But at a distance of 12 or 15 feet or greater, the M6 50mm frameline covers about the same as a 60mm lens. So it covers 83% of the width of a 50mm lens, and 83% of the height. Therefore, it covers only .83 x .83, which is only 69% of the area!

Wow. That's surprising!

 

[jsrockit]

Keep what you have...

 

[ruby.monkey]

The R3A is battery dependent... so what? How hard is it to keep a couple of spare SR44s to hand? It's not like the camera needs a new set every other day.

Tape a ten-pack to the baseplate and you'll never have to worry again.