KerryMcClain
Established
recently found on theBay a Graflex XL-based frankencamera that has a Lomography Belair Instax Wide back (in addition to a Fuji 100 pack film back, also adapted to the XL system). killer camera...Schneider 47/5.6 lens & shutter combo...best of several worlds. Not sure who did the surgery, but they did a great job!
Check it out:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/kmcclain/albums/72157671159660934
Check it out:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/kmcclain/albums/72157671159660934
JChrome
Street Worker
recently found on theBay a Graflex XL-based frankencamera that has a Lomography Belair Instax Wide back (in addition to a Fuji 100 pack film back, also adapted to the XL system). killer camera...Schneider 47/5.6 lens & shutter combo...best of several worlds. Not sure who did the surgery, but they did a great job!
Check it out:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/kmcclain/albums/72157671159660934
Pretty amazing work! I find it somewhat overkill to use such an expensive lens on instax film but to each his own.
Ken Ford
Refuses to suffer fools
You know, an Instax back for the 'Blad would be amusing...
unixrevolution
Well-known
You know, an Instax back for the 'Blad would be amusing...
An instax back might make me buy a Hassie.
eklevmyr
Newbie
I've been working on tearing apart an Instax Mini 8 for the film holder and eject motor. I've taken the circuit board completely out and wired the motor directly to the switch. I press the button to engage the motor then manually engage the film lift to get it to move through. As stated above, getting anything flat with the factory gearing and motor is near impossible. I'm thinking of adding a hand wheel of some kind to the rollers to save some space. My best shots are from using a polaroid back on my Hasselblad, which is a one shot at a time process, but still fun to do. I'm impressed at the quality of the results. I've thrown the film into everything I can get it into, from TLR's to 35mm cameras. My end goal is a a focusable manual camera that I can put a 10 shot pack into. I'll hack until things either work, or stop working I guess.
stevelmx5
Member
I'm 90% through my InsTLR 3D printed build for TLRs;
First assembly of the new PETG printed parts. by Steve Lloyd, on Flickr
I've tested it on both my Yashica 635 and my friends' Rolleiflex and it works on both as they have the same knob-wind.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/stevelloyd/albums/72157667913702016
My first version with Instax Mini 10 donor camera was featured on ThePhoblographer;
http://www.thephoblographer.com/2016/05/18/steve-lloyd-making-tlr-shoot-fujifilm-instax-film/
My new version is completely printed so doesn't need any donor parts.

I've tested it on both my Yashica 635 and my friends' Rolleiflex and it works on both as they have the same knob-wind.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/stevelloyd/albums/72157667913702016
My first version with Instax Mini 10 donor camera was featured on ThePhoblographer;
http://www.thephoblographer.com/2016/05/18/steve-lloyd-making-tlr-shoot-fujifilm-instax-film/
My new version is completely printed so doesn't need any donor parts.
mdwsta4
Matty Westside
Wow, this is AWESOME!! Are you going to be selling them? Or have you thought about designing an instax wide version? Kudos to you man, this is great work!
I'm 90% through my InsTLR 3D printed build for TLRs;
My new version is completely printed so doesn't need any donor parts.
stevelmx5
Member
Wow, this is AWESOME!! Are you going to be selling them? Or have you thought about designing an instax wide version? Kudos to you man, this is great work!
Thanks! It's become a bit of a sleeping project because I'm also working on a lasercut Acrylic 4x5 field camera as well as a fully motorised 4x5 field camera so I need to get the focus back on it!
My long term plan is to sell complete backs as direct replacements to standard backs on Yashica/Rolleiflex TLRs. There is no modification needed to the camera itself so it adds functionality without stopping the use of 120. I spent some time today building the sprung eject bar for pushing the Instax film towards the rollers for development.
I've already drawn up an Instax Wide back that's built in to a standard 4x5 double dark slide holder so can be used on any standard back;
https://flic.kr/p/NzxiKe
I haven't printed one of these yet but it's based around the models for the Instax Mini back so it should work the same way. This uses a ripcord type release instead of the winding know like the TLR. Once I even got the InsTLR boxed off I'll spend some more time on it.
https://flic.kr/p/PfgeEL
Cheers
Steve
Hogarth Ferguson
Well-known
Thanks! It's become a bit of a sleeping project because I'm also working on a lasercut Acrylic 4x5 field camera as well as a fully motorised 4x5 field camera so I need to get the focus back on it!
My long term plan is to sell complete backs as direct replacements to standard backs on Yashica/Rolleiflex TLRs. There is no modification needed to the camera itself so it adds functionality without stopping the use of 120. I spent some time today building the sprung eject bar for pushing the Instax film towards the rollers for development.
I've already drawn up an Instax Wide back that's built in to a standard 4x5 double dark slide holder so can be used on any standard back;
https://flic.kr/p/NzxiKe
I haven't printed one of these yet but it's based around the models for the Instax Mini back so it should work the same way. This uses a ripcord type release instead of the winding know like the TLR. Once I even got the InsTLR boxed off I'll spend some more time on it.
https://flic.kr/p/PfgeEL
Cheers
Steve
I would gladly buy one
stevelmx5
Member
I would gladly buy one
Thanks. I'll let you know when they're available :0)
MikeMGB
Well-known
This thread gives me some ideas for one of my cameras but I need a little info first. Can anyone tell me how the exposed photograph is ejected? Is the mechanism built into the film pack or the camera? Also, does anyone happen to know the distance between the edge of the film pack and the surface of the sheet being exposed?
I'm wondering if I could possibly make an Instax back for my 6x9 folder.
I'm wondering if I could possibly make an Instax back for my 6x9 folder.
JChrome
Street Worker
I noticed on the instax wide back how there's a little "notch" which pushes the film up and into the rollers. I didn't see that in your Flickr pics. This is an awesome project
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
stevelmx5
Member
This thread gives me some ideas for one of my cameras but I need a little info first. Can anyone tell me how the exposed photograph is ejected? Is the mechanism built into the film pack or the camera? Also, does anyone happen to know the distance between the edge of the film pack and the surface of the sheet being exposed?
I'm wondering if I could possibly make an Instax back for my 6x9 folder.
In a standard Instax camera, the exposed film is ejected using a motorised gearbox built into the camera. There is a metal bar linked to the gears which hooks the exposed film and pulls it upwards around 8mm until it reaches the rollers which then pull it through, compressing the developer pod and spreading the chemicals across the exposed sheet.
The film packs are basic holders with two slots on the top for sprung plates attached to the rear door to push the film down, keeping it flat for the next exposure. There is approximately 2mm between the face edge of the plastic packs and the film sheet inside.
stevelmx5
Member
I noticed on the instax wide back how there's a little "notch" which pushes the film up and into the rollers. I didn't see that in your Flickr pics. This is an awesome project
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The same notch is built into the InsTLR back. I've made a sprung metal eject bar which picks the exposed film and pulls it towards the rollers.
MikeMGB
Well-known
In a standard Instax camera, the exposed film is ejected using a motorised gearbox built into the camera. There is a metal bar linked to the gears which hooks the exposed film and pulls it upwards around 8mm until it reaches the rollers which then pull it through, compressing the developer pod and spreading the chemicals across the exposed sheet.
The film packs are basic holders with two slots on the top for sprung plates attached to the rear door to push the film down, keeping it flat for the next exposure. There is approximately 2mm between the face edge of the plastic packs and the film sheet inside.
Thank you!
That 2mm is important, it means I can put an Instax sheet on the same plane as the 120 film. Now to start some research, I have some glass plate backs for the camera, I just need to cut a rectangular hole in one and attach the Instax stuff to it.
stevelmx5
Member
No problem. As well as the flange depth, you need to consider the space required for the gearbox/motor/batteries if you're going to use a donor camera. On most Instax bodies they're on the right side of the film cartridge bay and take up a surprising amount of space!
MikeMGB
Well-known
No problem. As well as the flange depth, you need to consider the space required for the gearbox/motor/batteries if you're going to use a donor camera. On most Instax bodies they're on the right side of the film cartridge bay and take up a surprising amount of space!
Space I have plenty of, but I'm actually wondering about a manual system for winding the film out. I winder how consistent the speed through the rollers has to be for even development?
unixrevolution
Well-known
Space I have plenty of, but I'm actually wondering about a manual system for winding the film out. I winder how consistent the speed through the rollers has to be for even development?
The Lomo Bel Air has an instant back with a hand crank.
MikeMGB
Well-known
The Lomo Bel Air has an instant back with a hand crank.
And for not much money I see.......
stevelmx5
Member
Space I have plenty of, but I'm actually wondering about a manual system for winding the film out. I winder how consistent the speed through the rollers has to be for even development?
I've got a manual crank on my InsTLR back because it was impossible to fit the gearbox/motor and maintain the flange focal distance of the lenses. I basically turn the crank smoothly and it ejects pretty consistently because one roller drives the other and they both then pull the film through.
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