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Leica M39 screw mount bodies/lenses
Temple of Saturn / Foro Romano

Temple of Saturn / Foro Romano

I found a chance to take my IIIf/3.5 to Rome in July, following my Dad's visit in 1953, with his IIIf/3.5.

His timing (light) and Kodachrome (viz E100G) look far better! I love the 'atmosphere' in his pictures.

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Rome0714002-2.jpg
 
bigeye, that's cool that you were able to fairly closely match the shot from 1953. I always enjoy these kinds of comparisons, looking at the passage of time…
Quite interesting to see how much has remained pretty much the same, while that whole raised roadway in the foreground has apparently been removed.
 
Are you keeping the focus at 1m to collapse the lens fully into the body? Will it hit the shutter blades if you set the focus to infinity?
Sorry I missed your question.

I collapse the red scale completely, but often back away from infinity lock just so I get an easy start to focus.

I have not noticed any damage, but don't trust me.

My personal conclusion was the lens would collapse all the way, after research and input from some of the usual suspects.

However I do not mount or unmount the lens collapsed.

I will try to get some shots with it tomorrow :)

looks a bit funny on the Sonys :)
 
I agree with you, the top one does have beautiful light.
The photo is too good, calming to look at.

The rest are similar. Rome was quite different - none of his images have any tourists in them. The ruins and sites were not 'archaeological' or scientific; they simply blend into the daily scene, as above.
 
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Elmar 50mm f3.5 (m-mount) Acros 100, Beutler 1:1 :10/7 min.
"Frozen Water #7" Great stainless sculpture in Vanier Park here in Vancouver. Part of an Art Biennale and now sadly gone. It was great for testing lenses and film.
 
Some EXCELLENT photography here, I love this place :) There's nothing like using this old equipment, for me the pictures are secondary to actually using my cameras/lenses.

All the below are from my Leica IIIf with a 30's Elmar which had been coated at some point which is now past it's best. I also have a VALOO attached to act as a hood and make it easier to interpret the apertures as they appear on my Sekonic 308s. I used TMAX 100 and Ilford ID-11 @ 1:1.

Untitled by Gary Harding, on Flickr

Untitled by Gary Harding, on Flickr

Untitled by Gary Harding, on Flickr

Untitled by Gary Harding, on Flickr
 
Hi Gary,
That 2nd shot does look a bit flare-y. But I'm wondering if a separate issue with these is with their development (time and/or agitation amount). There is a marked difference between these pictures and those in your earlier post in this thread. These two have really blown highlights and are much grainier. Perhaps a different development was used here?

James

edit: of course allowing for the fact that these are Tri-X instead of TMax100...
 
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Hi Gary,
That 2nd shot does look a bit flare-y. But I'm wondering if a separate issue with these is with their development (time and/or agitation amount). There is a marked difference between these pictures and those in your earlier post in this thread. These two have really blown highlights and are much grainier. Perhaps a different development was used here?

James

edit: of course allowing for the fact that these are Tri-X instead of TMax100...

ID-11 is still ok when it's turned brown right? :rolleyes: haha, maybe it's time for new developer!
 
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