schlops
Established
I'm not sure if this is the right forum to post, sorry if I was wrong!
so I bought a Nikonos IV-A and was really excited about it, only to find out the shutter (?) seems to be defect.
It's Ilford HP5+ shot on a Nikonos IV-A developed in a Paterson tank with 4 other films (from a Leica) which came all out perfectly fine.
I honestly can't tell what's wrong. I have no idea how that can happen. You can see the brick wall repeating a few pics after, on a part of the negative that was still in the film container when the shot of the bricks happened.
any ideas? have you seen that before?
all help is appreciated!
so I bought a Nikonos IV-A and was really excited about it, only to find out the shutter (?) seems to be defect.
It's Ilford HP5+ shot on a Nikonos IV-A developed in a Paterson tank with 4 other films (from a Leica) which came all out perfectly fine.
I honestly can't tell what's wrong. I have no idea how that can happen. You can see the brick wall repeating a few pics after, on a part of the negative that was still in the film container when the shot of the bricks happened.
any ideas? have you seen that before?
all help is appreciated!
Scrambler
Well-known
I haven't seen anything like this so I will talk through what I see and what that makes me think.
The first row seems to gave displaced angled frames, displaced one frame. The lower section appears to have bricks overlaid but not the same pattern(?) and different to the top. The frames are full width but 1/3 or less in height.
Picture detail is preserved.
It can't be a simple light leak. For this to happen in camera you would need something seriously odd behind the film, because the full height is preserved but displaced and distorted.
I considered something during development but I don't think that would work either.
In camera it can't be the shutter itself because if the shutter was partly openly the images would not be formed but would simply be light.
The first row seems to gave displaced angled frames, displaced one frame. The lower section appears to have bricks overlaid but not the same pattern(?) and different to the top. The frames are full width but 1/3 or less in height.
Picture detail is preserved.
It can't be a simple light leak. For this to happen in camera you would need something seriously odd behind the film, because the full height is preserved but displaced and distorted.
I considered something during development but I don't think that would work either.
In camera it can't be the shutter itself because if the shutter was partly openly the images would not be formed but would simply be light.
hanskerensky
Well-known
Really odd !
What kind of film did you use ? Negative or Positive ?
If it was positive could be something happened during the exposure reversal while processing the film.
Another explanation could be an unintentional double exposure of the film. Maybe during the rewind of the film into the cartridge ?
What kind of film did you use ? Negative or Positive ?
If it was positive could be something happened during the exposure reversal while processing the film.
Another explanation could be an unintentional double exposure of the film. Maybe during the rewind of the film into the cartridge ?
schlops
Established
schlops
Established
Hans,
it's 35mm Ilford HP5+
double exposure while rewinding seems unlikely, because I was in nature when rewinding it and there were no bricks
film was developed in a Paterson tank with 4 other films and they are all perfectly fine.
schlops
Established
maybe it happens while advancing the film???
take the "brick pics": they are right under the "ZAMM" sign, I was probably pointing the camera down while advancing the film.
while advancing the film, the shutter get's pulled up for the next pic.
if that's the problem, how can I repair that?
take the "brick pics": they are right under the "ZAMM" sign, I was probably pointing the camera down while advancing the film.
while advancing the film, the shutter get's pulled up for the next pic.
if that's the problem, how can I repair that?
sevo
Fokutorendaburando
It looks as if the shutter edges separate for part of the wind-on. No DIY fix possible, unless you delve deeply into the subject of camera repairs (books, tools and a few dozen Nikons to destroy included). But it should not be too hard for a Nikon technician to fix.
Scrambler
Well-known
ok, that makes sense.
The shutter resetting during winding on. With refraction narrowing the projected image? The angling because the film is in motion during the exposure.
Work-around would then be to put a lens cap on with every advance.
I wonder if it might free up with use or (heaven forbid) lighter fluid?
sevo
Fokutorendaburando
Hard to tell, but overall I'd say it is unlikely, as the IV-a is a Nikon EM/FG in disguise, with a electronic Seiko Shutter - not a shutter type where that might be a issue of ribbon slippage. If the shutter blades pull apart on rewinding, it probably is due to wear or misalignment of some cogwheel in the gearing.
Timmyjoe
Veteran
If I were you I'd talk to Bob at Southern Nikonos Repair in Texas, here in the States. I realize you're in Austria so it may not be worth the money to send him the camera, but he is the Nikonos expert here in the States, and rumor has it that he is the recipient of all the Nikonos spare parts that are still available.
http://www.southern-nikonos.com
Best,
-Tim
http://www.southern-nikonos.com
Best,
-Tim
schlops
Established
Ok, so my thoughts that it happens while advancing the film were right.
I will test a roll where i´ll put my hand on the lens everytime i advance the film.
Ill keep you up to date!
Thanks guys.
Ps.: A repair is not in my budget, ill send it back eventually
I will test a roll where i´ll put my hand on the lens everytime i advance the film.
Ill keep you up to date!
Thanks guys.
Ps.: A repair is not in my budget, ill send it back eventually
schlops
Established
sevo
Fokutorendaburando
Official repair procedure seems to have been to swap the entire module and send it to Seiko for an overhaul. There will be advanced Nikon wizards that can fix it by themselves, but I don't think it is particularly suitable as your very first repair project.