Shutter problem

kl122002

Kevin H.Y. Lui
Local time
3:40 PM
Joined
Jun 26, 2007
Messages
64
It is so lucky that the shutter have problem when I have finished the first roll.😛

The upper shutter curtain does not goes down in low speed. However, the straps isn't break and it can be winded back. The hole shutter system is ok after 1/10 and faster.
Is the delay mechanism failed? I found lots of oil at the bottom when I remove the film.

I can't open the camera for further checking. The screws are too tight that I afraid I might scratch their head.
 
Hi Kevin,

a) Have you re-adjusted the curtains tension, before your first roll ?

b) Have you oiled the camera before your first roll ?

c) Which screws are stiff ?

d) By the way, have you processed the film ? If not do it immediately to know if you have light leaks, or frame spacing problems. In order to further correct your curtains problem you may have to disassemble and that will be a great opportunity to fix light leaks.

Cheers,
Ruben
 
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I would guess that someone applied oil on places where no oil should be, and the oil is causing the the upper curtain to lock-up at slow speeds.

You should take all your courage and prepare for a thorough C-L-A.

So, you will need a set of watchmaker's screwdrivers, naphta (lighter fluid), PTFE (Teflon) spray, synthetic grease, empty plastic film boxes (for parts), stripes of paper (to describe the parts), pencil 🙂
 
Ruben,
I did not oiled, re-adjust the shutter. The stuff screws are
screws Shutter Speed Bezel, and 1 from the bottom. The bottom one seems has glued by Yak hair twine.
I will sent my film to process today, but it takes a day to process. :bang:

After I cleaned some of the leaked oil with tissue paper, and placed some clean tissue paper to absorb them during night. The tissue paper was oiled. I think the old lubricant is keep on coming out in these 2-3 days.
 
Probably the seller oiled the camera heavily just to get rid of a stiff camera...

You really should get yourself a good quality screwdriver that won't strip the screw - my favorite size (in my set) is 1.8mm wide - I use that one on most screws in FSU cameras. If you buy one really good screwdriver it will be more expensive, but it's worth it.

Then you can undo the stiff screw and continue with the disassembly.

But if you just want to take a look at the shutter and ribbons - you don't need to remove the top! Only remove the 4 screws near film rails around film gateand one screw hidden in the bottom opening

here is a picture linked from KSS:
the%20ba67.jpg


Simply follow the instructions here: http://www3.telus.net/public/rpnchbck/the basics back film plane casting removal.html
 
I must remove the top cover because 1 of the screws is blocked by the top cover. (The one next to the Yak hair twine shown in photo.

It is amazing! After the tissue paper absorbed some of the oil, the shutter works in low speed again, although the upper curtain doesn't go down occasionally. Also, winding in low speed becomes easier than before. I think the oil has done something good to winding.
The curtains has some oil on it. I got to clean them periodically.
 
You remove a screw inside the cover pointed to by the blue arrow, that allows the sprocket shaft to lower which in turn allows the cover to slide down a bit this then allows the top screw to be removed. A magnetic screwdriver helps when replacing the inner screw.

Ronald K. Johnson Mount Gambier

ron
 
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