capitalK
Warrior Poet :P
Has anyone tried shooting slide film in an MG-1 or any other full-time aperture-priority camera?
I had bought 3 rolls of Fuji Sensia 100 for my Olympus 35-SP which was recently stolen, now my only rangefinder left is my MG-1. I have never shot slides before but I understand you have to be pretty much right on to get the exposure right. The fact that it's winter doesn't make me feel much better.
Any help would be appreciated.
I had bought 3 rolls of Fuji Sensia 100 for my Olympus 35-SP which was recently stolen, now my only rangefinder left is my MG-1. I have never shot slides before but I understand you have to be pretty much right on to get the exposure right. The fact that it's winter doesn't make me feel much better.
Any help would be appreciated.
leikonic
Newbie
Hi,
I've shot slide film with the MG-1 (when it was new in the late "70s/early '80's) successfully above the tree line on snow covered glaciers. One of my favourite photos was taken with this camera on slide film, on a glacier on a cloudy August day. Except for the colour on my climbing partner's shirt it looks like a black and white photo, with bright patches of light across the expanse of the snowfield.
I would guess I used Kodachrome 64 and didn't worry about the precision of the metering but then I didn't differentiate between film types (not that sophisticated!). I MAY have hedged on the ASA setting to ensure slight under-exposure ( I do recall doing that from time to time).
As you are aware the mercury battery originally spec'd is no longer available and I recall the alkaline replacement has slightly higher voltage. I have a "yashicaguy" battery converter installed -it is really a spacer- and I think I recall that the cicuitry on this camera is tolerant of voltage variations -(Can anyone clarify this?).
Why not just try a roll (with a fresh battery) and vary the ASA setting to see what setting yields the best results?
Dave K
I've shot slide film with the MG-1 (when it was new in the late "70s/early '80's) successfully above the tree line on snow covered glaciers. One of my favourite photos was taken with this camera on slide film, on a glacier on a cloudy August day. Except for the colour on my climbing partner's shirt it looks like a black and white photo, with bright patches of light across the expanse of the snowfield.
I would guess I used Kodachrome 64 and didn't worry about the precision of the metering but then I didn't differentiate between film types (not that sophisticated!). I MAY have hedged on the ASA setting to ensure slight under-exposure ( I do recall doing that from time to time).
As you are aware the mercury battery originally spec'd is no longer available and I recall the alkaline replacement has slightly higher voltage. I have a "yashicaguy" battery converter installed -it is really a spacer- and I think I recall that the cicuitry on this camera is tolerant of voltage variations -(Can anyone clarify this?).
Why not just try a roll (with a fresh battery) and vary the ASA setting to see what setting yields the best results?
Dave K
capitalK
Warrior Poet :P
Thanks, I have a mercury battery in mine which still works (for now).
Yah I guess I'll try that, waste a roll and record settings (which I don't usually do but probably should)
Yah I guess I'll try that, waste a roll and record settings (which I don't usually do but probably should)
jmi
Established
Well, it's pretty much been said... it's only a normal centre-weighted meter after all - just compensate the exposure as you normally would by messing with the ASA dial. I've been doing this with my XA which is also full-time aperture priority.
If it's sunny, you can cheat a bit by "knowing" that the sunny 16 rule will be more accurate than the meter readings in difficult cases.
Note that some chrome films are a good deal easier to expose than others, at least in my experience, i.e. the low-ish contrast "portrait" ones such as Astia, Sensia (since these are almost the same emulsion), E100G/GX, E200. Velvia might be asking for trouble since it's ultra-high-contrast...
If it's sunny, you can cheat a bit by "knowing" that the sunny 16 rule will be more accurate than the meter readings in difficult cases.
Note that some chrome films are a good deal easier to expose than others, at least in my experience, i.e. the low-ish contrast "portrait" ones such as Astia, Sensia (since these are almost the same emulsion), E100G/GX, E200. Velvia might be asking for trouble since it's ultra-high-contrast...
capitalK
Warrior Poet :P
Can't use Sunny16 because the camera is full-time aperture-priority... no shutter adjustment.
I also remembered about my Viewmaster camera which is made to take slide film. I can use that too and make some Viewmaster reels!
Thanks everybody!
I also remembered about my Viewmaster camera which is made to take slide film. I can use that too and make some Viewmaster reels!
Thanks everybody!
jmi
Established
Sorry, yes, I forgot that there are only the under and over lights on this thing and no readout of what it thinks the exposure is. I forget precisely when the red over light comes on, but that might help with guesstimation. If it's 1/500 then in a pinch it might be possible by setting the aperture to f/8 and then adjusting ISO down until one click after it goes off (for 100 chromes).
Shame on me for forgetting - I started out with the same camera but that was quite some time ago!
Shame on me for forgetting - I started out with the same camera but that was quite some time ago!