Shutter speed for hand held with the Xpan/45mm ?
A wide open f stop and long exposure time… set you up for a challenge to create a “sharp” image. Shutter Speed is only time, add motion, light, tone or color - consider the "previsualization" of the subject/scene. Then do you want to see something sharp in the resulting image? Before you squeeze the shutter what do you want to capture? Then what tools do you need, might be turning on or off a room light, changing film type, bracing the camera on a door frame or using the camera’s self timer to allow the motion of pressing the shutter to cease and provide a period of “steady” for the shutter to open during.
In a tight room full of people with low lighting focusing on some one, sitting still, having their eyes sharp may be acceptable while the rest of the room is a blur of motion. The sharp eyes give the viewer somewhere to lock on to and relate to as being sharp.
A landscape or still life may require deeper depth of focus from objects close to far maybe to the horizon – maybe you can hold you breath, squeeze shutter softly and not blur at 1/10th … 1/15th of a second, (1/30 is a rule of thumb). But if the resulting print doesn’t grab your eye and compute in your brain into an image you can accept as sharp then it falls …flat, doesn’t appear sharp. An ocean image with breaking waves, (or moving grass in a field) low lighting the Earth is not moving, but the motion of the waves become a soft flow of tones or colors during a 1/10th second exposure, more so over a tripod held 10 seconds, they may appear SHARP!
To give the illusion of sharpness from objects close to objects far the same way your eye sees, you may need to stop down to f/11 or f/16. with the rangefinder you can’t press the depth of field preview button as on an SLR you have to previsualize what is in focus. Resulting shutter speed my then need to be a half second or a second –hay-even 30 seconds, hand holding that is tough and a lot of luck.
Another subject - say the subject is a moving person walking by, which you focus on, if the camera moves (pans) with the person the two may match up and everything else “may” blur - motion blur, but the person “may” remain sharp and seem like a sharp subject with the background blurring in motion.
It is all the illusion of sharpness compared to “What(?)”.
Stand on a city street at night at f/22 on auto shutter and focus on car headlights, hold the camera during the 4-10 second exposure and “maybe” the moving streaks of light will be razor “sharp” in focus but sharp streaks on the black background, since you can’t hand hold the camera for those seconds – but the lights are razor sharp but blurred! Place the same camera on a tripod and the building lights will not blurr as the camera is steady on the Earth but moving cars still blur (streak) by as …. Sharp streaks.
