nongfuspring
Well-known
Not so long ago I bought what I thought would be my dream SLR to use with my favourite lens, it was a Contax 139q from KEH. Being based outside of the US, I ended up paying significantly more than the camera was worth in customs and shipping so I was pretty annoyed when it didn't work because of corroded contacts (that I fixed), and then annoyed again when it stopped working half way through the first roll. No doubt I could return it and take advantage of KEH's returns policy, but even if they paid for the shipping I would wind up paying tax on it again and it just wasn't worth it. So I opened it up and more or less dismantled the wind on mechanism which seemed to have some things out of alignment, and also did a CLA on the slightly-too-loud mirror action. 15 hours later I put it back together and it worked pretty well for a week - until yesterday when the metering button stopped working (button contacts probably need cleaning) and the wind on lever has become progressively looser. So I'm getting pretty sick of this BS and just want something as dependable and indestructible as possible. I have a Contax RX which is amazing, but for hard travel usage is a bit on the bulky side and is in excellent condition so I don't want to rough it up too much with intensive use.
So to summarise, I'm looking for a very tough, compact-ish, reliable SLR. I'm thinking along the lines of the Nikon F3, Canon EF/New F1/F1, or a Pentax MX. Ideally I'd like to be able to use the SLR lenses I already have in C/Y or Minolta MD/MC mount even if it's with an adapter but priority is really on reliability, so I can compromise on that. I frequently travel to damp, dusty, sandy, cold, and hot places, so it'll have to keep ticking through all that as well. And of course the cheaper the better.
I guess the cameras that appeal most to me at this stage is probably the New F1 with a FD 50mm 1.8 due to the good looks and the range of battery free shutter speeds. Are there any suitable options that I've missed?
So to summarise, I'm looking for a very tough, compact-ish, reliable SLR. I'm thinking along the lines of the Nikon F3, Canon EF/New F1/F1, or a Pentax MX. Ideally I'd like to be able to use the SLR lenses I already have in C/Y or Minolta MD/MC mount even if it's with an adapter but priority is really on reliability, so I can compromise on that. I frequently travel to damp, dusty, sandy, cold, and hot places, so it'll have to keep ticking through all that as well. And of course the cheaper the better.
I guess the cameras that appeal most to me at this stage is probably the New F1 with a FD 50mm 1.8 due to the good looks and the range of battery free shutter speeds. Are there any suitable options that I've missed?
f16sunshine
Moderator
Yashica FX3 2000.
Lightweight. Mechanical metal shutter. Takes your C/Y lenses. 2000 top shutter speed.
A very cool feature of mirror lock up with the self timer so, if you have long exposures on the tripod you can have the vibration free advantage of a rangefinder by using the self timer for release the shutter.
I've tourtured a pair of them for rougher adventures for over 10 years now.
The battery only operates the meter. A pair of Sr44's last a few years of metering.
I have one in a bag with the 45mm tessar and 85mm sonnar all the ready to go.
Makes a nice compliment to the RX which I rarely use now. The Aria is nice too but expensive and battery dependent.
Cheers!
Lightweight. Mechanical metal shutter. Takes your C/Y lenses. 2000 top shutter speed.
A very cool feature of mirror lock up with the self timer so, if you have long exposures on the tripod you can have the vibration free advantage of a rangefinder by using the self timer for release the shutter.
I've tourtured a pair of them for rougher adventures for over 10 years now.
The battery only operates the meter. A pair of Sr44's last a few years of metering.
I have one in a bag with the 45mm tessar and 85mm sonnar all the ready to go.
Makes a nice compliment to the RX which I rarely use now. The Aria is nice too but expensive and battery dependent.
Cheers!
Wulfthari
Well-known
Pentax K1000/KM/KX/K2/K2DMD...they are tougher than the MX.
Canon FTB, F-1 new and old.
Nikon FM1,2, F2.
Then there are a lot of cheap brands like Ricoh that made very good SLRs too...today with $50 you can get a good camera.
Canon FTB, F-1 new and old.
Nikon FM1,2, F2.
Then there are a lot of cheap brands like Ricoh that made very good SLRs too...today with $50 you can get a good camera.
Nokton48
Veteran
nongfuspring;So to summarise said:
Godfrey
somewhat colored
A late model Nikon FM2n would be my choice. Huge range of lenses available, very reliable both mechanically and electronics (limited to metering system), and a very good size/weight. The MD-12 motor drive is also very reliable, easily available, and integrates beautifully with the camera.
You'll need Nikon F-mount, AI series and later lenses. Don't bother with adapters, it's just not worth it for what you miss (full aperture focusing/framing/metering).
G
You'll need Nikon F-mount, AI series and later lenses. Don't bother with adapters, it's just not worth it for what you miss (full aperture focusing/framing/metering).
G
ColSebastianMoran
( IRL Richard Karash )
Sorry to hear this; yes, shipping and customs creates a real obstacle to an otherwise nice return policy.
Since you already have a lens or lenses for the C/Y mount, pick the latest camera in that line that fits your needs. The FX-2000 is good, for example, and they are cheap enough to treat as disposable. It's more money, but the Contax Aria is very, very sweet.
After what you've already done, you probably don't want to invest in a full professional CLA for your 139Q... I wouldn't.
Since you already have a lens or lenses for the C/Y mount, pick the latest camera in that line that fits your needs. The FX-2000 is good, for example, and they are cheap enough to treat as disposable. It's more money, but the Contax Aria is very, very sweet.
After what you've already done, you probably don't want to invest in a full professional CLA for your 139Q... I wouldn't.
GaryLH
Veteran
Another votes for fm2n.. In Nikon also add fe2 or f3hp... Btw, IMHO, KEH does not seems as good as they used to be (before they were taken over by new ownership -- also cause of the new hated website design). I don't think their rating system is as consistent as it used to be. I guess new evaluators.
Gary
Gary
shadowfox
Darkroom printing lives
Just be advised that Canon F-1 is just as bulky (and heavier) compared to Contax RX.
Wulfthari
Well-known
The F-1 is relatively big (800 gr without lens) but it's one of the most capable PROFESSIONAL cameras. The only pro camera smaller than the F-1 is the Pentax LX, the F-1N with all its screens, finders, motordrives etc...is probably the most flexible camera I own, and it's smaller than a F-2, with the f1.8 is compact enough to be used everyday, the main problem is that it's difficult to find the original case, that's annoying.
Addy101
Well-known
As you don't state your location, is it possible to get cheap Minolta bodies? A XG-series or X300 is cheap and you can get several for the price of the cameras you mentioned.
The Minolta SR-T series are fully mechanical and built to last.
The Minolta XK/XM was Minolta's answer to the Nikon and Canon professional system cameras. They came close, but didn't succeed and went on building the XE, which was the basis of the Leica R3. If you want reliability, few modern niceties and cheapish, the Minolta XE would be my pick.
The Minolta SR-T series are fully mechanical and built to last.
The Minolta XK/XM was Minolta's answer to the Nikon and Canon professional system cameras. They came close, but didn't succeed and went on building the XE, which was the basis of the Leica R3. If you want reliability, few modern niceties and cheapish, the Minolta XE would be my pick.
jbielikowski
Jan Bielikowski
Oh c'moan, use it like you should! After whole day of walking metal bricks like Nikon F wont be any nicer to carry than this, I'd say RX is light years ahead in terms of ergonomics. And they won't be any cheaper in good condition (and old pro cameras in bad condition are often worn out). Not to mention that C/Y glass is one of the best out there.
TXForester
Well-known
I'm curious about the cost of the camera vs the cost of shipping. I bought something from KEH that didn't work as advertised. They said the cost of shipping back to them was too much considering the value of the product. They let me keep the item and they give me store credit equal to what I paid for it.
Have you called them? Maybe they'd do the same towards another purchase.
Have you called them? Maybe they'd do the same towards another purchase.
Red Robin
It Is What It Is
My current SLR is a "New To Me" Minolta 303-b. A bit heavy but I have lots of compatible glass (Still a deal) and the construction is tank-like. After all who would want a plastic tank. Batteries aren't an issue giving me a fully adjustable shot. But hey, there are lots and lots of nice, really nice hardware for sale. No use to buy overseas. Just take your time before you pull the trigger as there will always be another deal, enjoy the hunt.
p.giannakis
Pan Giannakis
In my view, all higher end SLR cameras should be reliable enough to do the job they meant to do. But of course, I cannot run as fast as i used to run 10 years ago and either should we expect cameras to perform they way they did 30 years after production without some sort of maintaince.
Based on my experience, these would be my suggestions:
* If you want to stick with the C/Y mount, go for the Yashica FX-D Quartz. It is the same as the Contax 139Q without the aperture readings in the viewfinder, slightly dimmer viewfinder, shock absorbers on the mirror and a metal ball bearing on the film transport. Otherwise it is the same camera and more importantly it is half the price!
* If you are using Minolta glass, go for the X-700. It is a lot of camera for the money. In production for 20 years, it used to be Minolta's flagship for a while. For the money they sell, i find it very difficult to find another bargain in the photographic world.
* If you want to jump to another system but small size is your main criteria, others have shortlisted many good options. I have used the Pentax MX and the Olympus OM-1n. Both very capable but my favourite is the Olympus.
Have a look on my blog to see if you find something helpful. I have small reviews about these cameras.
http://pansfilmcameras.blogspot.co.uk/
Regards,
Pan
Based on my experience, these would be my suggestions:
* If you want to stick with the C/Y mount, go for the Yashica FX-D Quartz. It is the same as the Contax 139Q without the aperture readings in the viewfinder, slightly dimmer viewfinder, shock absorbers on the mirror and a metal ball bearing on the film transport. Otherwise it is the same camera and more importantly it is half the price!
* If you are using Minolta glass, go for the X-700. It is a lot of camera for the money. In production for 20 years, it used to be Minolta's flagship for a while. For the money they sell, i find it very difficult to find another bargain in the photographic world.
* If you want to jump to another system but small size is your main criteria, others have shortlisted many good options. I have used the Pentax MX and the Olympus OM-1n. Both very capable but my favourite is the Olympus.
Have a look on my blog to see if you find something helpful. I have small reviews about these cameras.
http://pansfilmcameras.blogspot.co.uk/
Regards,
Pan
nongfuspring
Well-known
Thanks all for the very useful replies. There are definitely a few bodies I'll be looking out for after reading this thread. For some reason I never thought of the FM2. Is there a reason to choose one over an F3 if price/condition is comparable?
f16sunshine: the FX3 2000 is for sure the cheapest and most sensible choice. I found a beat up FX3 recently and quite like it except for the fact that the film advance is wobbly (just like the contax 139, I think they actually share the same film advance mechanism just that the 139 seems to have bearings) but that could just be my copy. It needs new seals and has a sketchy back door hinge that prevent me from using it. There's another one in a store nearby so I may go take a closer look it out when I have the chance. The 2000 is appealing since I tend to use high shutter speeds, I'm just not all that crazy about the loud shutter.
TXForester: I just got in touch with them and should be hearing back soon. With a bit of luck hopefully they'll give me the value of the camera in store credit. A bit frustrating they didn't check it over properly before listing it, in fact with the contacts corroded the way they were I would be a bit surprised if they managed to so much as get the shutter to fire.
jbielikowski: The RX is a pretty phenomenal camera and it's actually worked well in some pretty harsh conditions so far. You're right about prices, I was just looking on ebay and they're not as expensive and I thought so I probably shouldn't be so precious about it, but I'm not sure if I could bring myself to use it as a beater.
f16sunshine: the FX3 2000 is for sure the cheapest and most sensible choice. I found a beat up FX3 recently and quite like it except for the fact that the film advance is wobbly (just like the contax 139, I think they actually share the same film advance mechanism just that the 139 seems to have bearings) but that could just be my copy. It needs new seals and has a sketchy back door hinge that prevent me from using it. There's another one in a store nearby so I may go take a closer look it out when I have the chance. The 2000 is appealing since I tend to use high shutter speeds, I'm just not all that crazy about the loud shutter.
TXForester: I just got in touch with them and should be hearing back soon. With a bit of luck hopefully they'll give me the value of the camera in store credit. A bit frustrating they didn't check it over properly before listing it, in fact with the contacts corroded the way they were I would be a bit surprised if they managed to so much as get the shutter to fire.
jbielikowski: The RX is a pretty phenomenal camera and it's actually worked well in some pretty harsh conditions so far. You're right about prices, I was just looking on ebay and they're not as expensive and I thought so I probably shouldn't be so precious about it, but I'm not sure if I could bring myself to use it as a beater.
ruby.monkey
Veteran
MX. MX, MX, MX. Simple. It's a pro-spec pocketable SLR that'll survive pretty much anything, has some tasty lenses available, and can be had for peanuts.
You can always pick up a Yashica FX-2 to keep your C/Y lenses active.
You can always pick up a Yashica FX-2 to keep your C/Y lenses active.
David Hughes
David Hughes
Hi,
I don't know what the situation is in your country but it is usually possible to return faulty goods and reclaim the tax and duty paid. I've done it due to things arriving damaged after paying tax and duty.
Why not speak to your customs people? They ought to be able to help you.
Regards, David
I don't know what the situation is in your country but it is usually possible to return faulty goods and reclaim the tax and duty paid. I've done it due to things arriving damaged after paying tax and duty.
Why not speak to your customs people? They ought to be able to help you.
Regards, David
lynnb
Veteran
for bulletproof ruggedness and mechanical simplicity I'd also add the Nikkormat FTN/FT2 to the list.
Ranchu
Veteran
Keh seems to have joined pacific rim-
"You are buying from a professional photographic dealer. You should expect everything to function reasonably well, and that all optics have no problems that would noticeably affect image quality, unless we describe them otherwise. We try and list all pertinent faults."
-in selling whatever junk they have lying around.
You're going to have a hard time adapting Minolta lenses to other bodies, C/Y bodies adapt very easily to M42 lenses fwiw. I have a 137 MA that I've never had a problem with, replaced the covering with aki asahi. I think the srt series has NO electrical contacts beyond the sync, the meter coupling is done with little ropes and pulleys, and the needle body swivels.
"You are buying from a professional photographic dealer. You should expect everything to function reasonably well, and that all optics have no problems that would noticeably affect image quality, unless we describe them otherwise. We try and list all pertinent faults."
-in selling whatever junk they have lying around.
You're going to have a hard time adapting Minolta lenses to other bodies, C/Y bodies adapt very easily to M42 lenses fwiw. I have a 137 MA that I've never had a problem with, replaced the covering with aki asahi. I think the srt series has NO electrical contacts beyond the sync, the meter coupling is done with little ropes and pulleys, and the needle body swivels.
mfunnell
Shaken, so blurred
For what it's worth, I like the FM2n, I like it's 1/4000th fastest shutter speed, I think I like it's LED metering display better than I like the F3 and I like the FM2n's flash synch speed (though I'd probably like it more if I used flash more frequently). In theory I should like the FM2n's smaller form-factor and a bunch of other things besides. Yet somehow I like my F3 better. I like my F2 better as well (sometimes over the F3, sometimes not) even though there are even more reasons not to. I'm not saying any of this is rational, I'm just saying it is.
...Mike