msbarnes
Well-known
I'm thinking about a Hasselblad 500cm. I'm not sure on which exact model yet but I'm sure I can figure this out more easily by looking at the specifications. I have a Rolleiflex that I love, but I'm realizing its limitations (If I dare say that it has any!). I want backs mostly, but a prism and longer focal lengths would be nice. The Hasselblad seems more logical choice to me than an F model and Tele Rollei.
Lenses. I'm thinking that I'd eventually want a 2 or 3 lens kit: one/two semi-wide normal lenses (60/80/100) and one tele (150/180). The focal length is very personal but the 100mm/180mm seem to be the sharpest of the normal/tele while the 80mm/150mm seem to be the most balanced and a tad less sharp (I doubt this will be a decisive factor). I'm leaning towards a 60/100 for the normal lenses since I like 35mm & 50mm and I already have a 75mm/80mm on my Flex's. Focal length is too personal to seek advice.
-However is the balance between these lenses? I wouldn't consider the 180mm for handheld use...but well-balanced normal lens is a must.
-How is the bokeh between the normal lenses? The bokeh between the tele's seem good-enough to me but with normal lenses, it is a hit or miss sometimes.
Filters. I'm mostly interested in B&W and filters are a big deal to me.
-Are the bayonet filters easier to use than a screw-on with adapter? I like the way Rollei filters work, is it similar to that?
-Can I still use all the hoods with screw-on filter adapters?
Lenses. I'm thinking that I'd eventually want a 2 or 3 lens kit: one/two semi-wide normal lenses (60/80/100) and one tele (150/180). The focal length is very personal but the 100mm/180mm seem to be the sharpest of the normal/tele while the 80mm/150mm seem to be the most balanced and a tad less sharp (I doubt this will be a decisive factor). I'm leaning towards a 60/100 for the normal lenses since I like 35mm & 50mm and I already have a 75mm/80mm on my Flex's. Focal length is too personal to seek advice.
-However is the balance between these lenses? I wouldn't consider the 180mm for handheld use...but well-balanced normal lens is a must.
-How is the bokeh between the normal lenses? The bokeh between the tele's seem good-enough to me but with normal lenses, it is a hit or miss sometimes.
Filters. I'm mostly interested in B&W and filters are a big deal to me.
-Are the bayonet filters easier to use than a screw-on with adapter? I like the way Rollei filters work, is it similar to that?
-Can I still use all the hoods with screw-on filter adapters?
x-ray
Veteran
I don't have the 150 any longer but used one for many years. It's a nice lens but the 120 and 180 are much better particularly the 180. I use a broad selection of lenses from 40-350. Two of the best lenses for the HB are the 100 and 180. The 100 may be the best of all HB lenses. I'm partial to the 40 cf, 100 or 120 depending on subject and 180. The 180 is fairly good size and heavy. Regarding the 60 I have one and really like it.
Buy bayonet filters and skip the adapter. I've done this and don't like it. I prefer one of the bellows hoods and gell filters but for you a HB hood and bay filters are the way to go.
With a 150 or longer I would suggest the 501cm. It has a gliding oversize mirror and shows the full image in the vf where as the 500cm and 501c do not.
Buy bayonet filters and skip the adapter. I've done this and don't like it. I prefer one of the bellows hoods and gell filters but for you a HB hood and bay filters are the way to go.
With a 150 or longer I would suggest the 501cm. It has a gliding oversize mirror and shows the full image in the vf where as the 500cm and 501c do not.
venchka
Veteran
By all means, get the latest & greatest and BRIGHTEST focusing screen. It is standard on the 501cm. Another very good reason to get a 501cm.
Good luck!
Wayne
Good luck!
Wayne
msbarnes
Well-known
Thanks for the advice.
I wasn't asking about the body model advice but I highly appreciate it! I figured that most people would point me to google if I had asked...I'll go with the 501cm.
-How do you guys like the 45 degree prism for handheld use? It seems that most people end up going sticking with the WLF for handheld use and just using prisms for the tripod.
-What does the "black dot" mean for the backs? Which back should I get for 120? I believe 12/A12, but I'm not sure of the difference and if the black dot designation means anything.
I wasn't asking about the body model advice but I highly appreciate it! I figured that most people would point me to google if I had asked...I'll go with the 501cm.
-How do you guys like the 45 degree prism for handheld use? It seems that most people end up going sticking with the WLF for handheld use and just using prisms for the tripod.
-What does the "black dot" mean for the backs? Which back should I get for 120? I believe 12/A12, but I'm not sure of the difference and if the black dot designation means anything.
KM-25
Well-known
Not sure I entirely agree with this, the reasons being two fold:
1. Bay-60 filters are getting a bit harder to find, especially ones like infrared and some of the darker ND filters.
2. You can get cheap and new Bay-60 to 67mm adapters and use those filters on some other lens, but you can not use a Bay-60 filter on anything but a Bay-60 lens. I use a combo of both...
I also use in CF a 50 FLE, 60, 80, 100, 120 and 180 and plan to add a converter soon. All are Bay-60 filter threads and are brilliant lenses. I am shooting a 501CM and 500 CM, 8 A/12 and one A/24 back in "Black Dot" since they are fairly current but not the most current backs with the semi bulky darkslide holder.
The black dot refers to the back release button, this type of back has a black button that has either a 12 or 24 on it and in some cases, a 16 for the A/16 back. I got all my backs from KEH due to the combo of price, return policy, conservative rating and the fact they check them over for the most part. Common issues with Hassy backs that are not well maintained are wear on the light seal ridge ( same with the camera bodies ) frame spacing and the light seal that the darkslide passes through. While I will at times use the standard waist level finder, the inexpensive older NC-2 type ones are tough to beat in terms of price and having less bulk than a larger PM-2 type.
Out of all the formats and all the cameras I use, the Hasselblad system is my favorite, so buy the best condition gear you can afford and have a blast!
FrankS
Registered User
The standard 3 lens grouping for Hasselblad is 50/80/150. These are the most affordable lenses of the focal length range too. I've added a 40 because its cheaper than a superwide. All mine are black C * lenses.
mfogiel
Veteran
If I were you, I'd stop for a moment and reflect, what do you need the Hassy for. If it is landscape, then I would definitely go for the 501 C/M, and 50/100/180 or at least 60/120, although the 120 will need stopping down to f11 to be razor sharp at infinity.
If on the other hand, you are more into people photography, then reflect on this option:
Hassselblad 201F, 50/2.8/110/2/150/2.8 or at least 60/110.
The 110 Planar alone is a good reason to get the F body, but the bonus is, that you can use both the F and C type lenses.
If on the other hand, you are more into people photography, then reflect on this option:
Hassselblad 201F, 50/2.8/110/2/150/2.8 or at least 60/110.
The 110 Planar alone is a good reason to get the F body, but the bonus is, that you can use both the F and C type lenses.
msbarnes
Well-known
The main reasons to go 200 series is for the focal plane shutter, which equates higher top shutter speeds and faster lenses?
I haven't looked into this option because I think that this series is much more expensive (I don't know what the typical price is).
Oh and my interest is in people.
I haven't looked into this option because I think that this series is much more expensive (I don't know what the typical price is).
Oh and my interest is in people.
Lawrence A.
Established
I'm not a Hasselblad expert, but I have a 500 CM and love it -- with 50, 80, 150 CF lenses. I can't say the idea of a focal plane shutter holds any allure for me; my first Hasselblad was a 1000F with a FP shutter that did not work when it got cold -- meaning much under 50 degrees F. That camera gave me some great shots, though, even in winter if I babied it and kept it warm.
I got an NC2 "type" prism finder made by Kiev for $39 in like new condition, and it's quite nice, though I find wearing glasses that seeing the whole frame can be a problem with it. For critical framing the waist level finder works best for me, so I use the prism for handheld shots, mostly with the 50mm. Someone else would work differently. Either way its nice to have when you need it, whatever that may be in the end.
Oh! My camera came with a 220 A24 back that I heard could not be used with 120 film. I do use it and get my entire 12 frames by stopping the advance when loading about 3/8 inch before the "start" arrow. I havent found the pressure plate issue has compromised the sharpness of the shots.
I got an NC2 "type" prism finder made by Kiev for $39 in like new condition, and it's quite nice, though I find wearing glasses that seeing the whole frame can be a problem with it. For critical framing the waist level finder works best for me, so I use the prism for handheld shots, mostly with the 50mm. Someone else would work differently. Either way its nice to have when you need it, whatever that may be in the end.
Oh! My camera came with a 220 A24 back that I heard could not be used with 120 film. I do use it and get my entire 12 frames by stopping the advance when loading about 3/8 inch before the "start" arrow. I havent found the pressure plate issue has compromised the sharpness of the shots.
Pirate
Guitar playing Fotografer
Not much 220 film out there but I have two of the 220 backs. A use for them, if you're into some fun and different stuff, you can cut down the ends of a 120/220 spool and put in a can of 35mm film to shoot.
x-ray
Veteran
I wouldn't mess with 220. I like the A12 backs. Don't know about the black dot???
I use a 45degree prism with film but mainly use the 501cm with a CDV39 digital back with a 90 degree prism that was designed for the 70mm back. It has 4x magnification vs 3x in the 45 degree and is easy to use in a vertical orientation of the back.
If I could only own two lenses it would be the 60 and 120. Three lenses 50 FLE, 100 & 180. The FLE version is much better than the non FLE. I almost never use an 80 and love the 100 an 180. They are crazy sharp. I would suggest CF lenses. The C have compur shutters and they are old in many cases. The shutter blades have a tendancy to crack from stress and fracture. My 150 c T* did that. Parts will be getting scarce one day soon I understand. CF lenses are proctor shutters and there are plenty of parts. They're very reliable and were found in all CF, CFe and CFi lenses.
I use a 45degree prism with film but mainly use the 501cm with a CDV39 digital back with a 90 degree prism that was designed for the 70mm back. It has 4x magnification vs 3x in the 45 degree and is easy to use in a vertical orientation of the back.
If I could only own two lenses it would be the 60 and 120. Three lenses 50 FLE, 100 & 180. The FLE version is much better than the non FLE. I almost never use an 80 and love the 100 an 180. They are crazy sharp. I would suggest CF lenses. The C have compur shutters and they are old in many cases. The shutter blades have a tendancy to crack from stress and fracture. My 150 c T* did that. Parts will be getting scarce one day soon I understand. CF lenses are proctor shutters and there are plenty of parts. They're very reliable and were found in all CF, CFe and CFi lenses.
x-ray
Veteran
Regarding the 200 series, I had one of the earlier 2000 models and can't say I cared for it. They're more expensive and much more complex equating to more and more expensive repairs. IMO the 110mm would. Ecthe only reason to own one but I can't say I have any desire for one again.
bigeye
Well-known
10 stop NDs and good polas are expensive, if you use such things, and to get them in every size you need is quite a bother. I have a couple of camera kits and buy 77mm (largest I might need) screw-in filters which I keep in a single package and 'adapt' them to to each lens/system. I do have all Bay 60 HB lenses, which keeps it relatively simple. They are too big for a shade though, so care or a Lee-type shade/gel system or 6053T makes a lot of sense, too, and worth consideration.
All HB lenses are fantastic, and "The Best" have minor, nearly imperceptible differences over the others. It's like an Olympic sprint final. As Mfogiel alludes, need and use are more important.
My kit is a 250/150/60/38 and don't believe that I'd go too far out of my way to get a gliding mirror. The 150 hangs on the 500cm most. You can't go wrong with that or the 120 or 180. They're all magic.
-Charlie
All HB lenses are fantastic, and "The Best" have minor, nearly imperceptible differences over the others. It's like an Olympic sprint final. As Mfogiel alludes, need and use are more important.
My kit is a 250/150/60/38 and don't believe that I'd go too far out of my way to get a gliding mirror. The 150 hangs on the 500cm most. You can't go wrong with that or the 120 or 180. They're all magic.
-Charlie
msbarnes
Well-known
Thanks again.
I'm actually not too interested in an expansive filter set. The only filters that I use is UV and Yellow. I have BII and BIII Rolleiflex's so I just buy BII/BIII filters when I see them at fair prices. Although I don't use the other colors much, I like to know that I have them in the rare occasion that I shoot flowers and landscape. I like to consolidate filters as much as possible but I like the bayonet action for the Rollei's, so I think I'll do the same with the Hasselblad, atleast for my staple filters (UV and Yellow mostly, then Green and Red). I'll go 67mm with step-up for the more difficult-to-find filters like ND's and such. The availability for the basic contrast filters is about the same for Rolleiflex's, right?
I'm still confused on the backs. What is there and "advantage" for going with a black dot? Are they newer, more reliable, or in any way easier to use? it seems that reliability is more of a function on condition, use and servicing, rather than age.
I'm actually not too interested in an expansive filter set. The only filters that I use is UV and Yellow. I have BII and BIII Rolleiflex's so I just buy BII/BIII filters when I see them at fair prices. Although I don't use the other colors much, I like to know that I have them in the rare occasion that I shoot flowers and landscape. I like to consolidate filters as much as possible but I like the bayonet action for the Rollei's, so I think I'll do the same with the Hasselblad, atleast for my staple filters (UV and Yellow mostly, then Green and Red). I'll go 67mm with step-up for the more difficult-to-find filters like ND's and such. The availability for the basic contrast filters is about the same for Rolleiflex's, right?
I'm still confused on the backs. What is there and "advantage" for going with a black dot? Are they newer, more reliable, or in any way easier to use? it seems that reliability is more of a function on condition, use and servicing, rather than age.
bigeye
Well-known
- "V" release buttons (1968-1985): original "A"
- "12", "16", "24" release buttons (1985-1992?): new single bar spool holder
- Early "black dot" release (1992?-1996): new film box label holder.
- Late "black dot" release (1996-end): added dark slide holder
There are only 2 part numbers (for A12), 30074/30174 (chrome/black) and 30212/30213 (chrome/black). All before 'black dot' are 30074 and everything black dot is 30212, so part numbers are only a loose way to describe them.
I have several of each and find no functional differences. Condition is most important. The dark slide holder is very nice to have, but you can add the Lindahl holder to the old ones.
-Charlie
PS - HBs lenses have inner and outer bayonets. You can stack Bay filters (on their inner bayonet) and use the shades over the filters on the outer bayonet.
PhotoMat
Well-known
Now you guys have gone and done it ...
I just retrieved my lonely 'blad from my gear cabinet -- it looks like it's time to take it out this weekend for some fall color shooting!
I just retrieved my lonely 'blad from my gear cabinet -- it looks like it's time to take it out this weekend for some fall color shooting!
Bill Clark
Veteran
I have used several Hasselblad cameras and lenses, from the 500C to the 501CM.
Zeiss lenses are wonderful!
For portraits I have used the 150 f4,0 lenses. I say plural as I have several of them. I do have the 180 f4,0, the 50 f4,0 as well as several 80 f 2,8 lenses.
If you are making portraits of individuals or even 2 people I would consider purchasing the 150 f4,0 lens. There were a lot of those made so used prices are reasonable, in Hasselblad speak.
The 80 is what is called a "normal" lens for medium format. The 50 is a nice wide angle lens that can be used in various situations.
I have the PME finder but I find myself using the regular finder as this is what I started with and it works for me. The PME finder increases the size and weight of the camera so if you don't use a tripod this can make a difference.
I purchased this stuff when digital was taking over and Hasselblad stuff was reasonably priced, in Hasselblad terms, and I use them for making B&W photographs.
The nice ingredient about the 500 series is it can accomodate a digital back where some others you have to start over.
Hope this helps you!
Zeiss lenses are wonderful!
For portraits I have used the 150 f4,0 lenses. I say plural as I have several of them. I do have the 180 f4,0, the 50 f4,0 as well as several 80 f 2,8 lenses.
If you are making portraits of individuals or even 2 people I would consider purchasing the 150 f4,0 lens. There were a lot of those made so used prices are reasonable, in Hasselblad speak.
The 80 is what is called a "normal" lens for medium format. The 50 is a nice wide angle lens that can be used in various situations.
I have the PME finder but I find myself using the regular finder as this is what I started with and it works for me. The PME finder increases the size and weight of the camera so if you don't use a tripod this can make a difference.
I purchased this stuff when digital was taking over and Hasselblad stuff was reasonably priced, in Hasselblad terms, and I use them for making B&W photographs.
The nice ingredient about the 500 series is it can accomodate a digital back where some others you have to start over.
Hope this helps you!
bigeye
Well-known
Zeiss also published their intended use for the design of each lens. You can see that some are optimized for certain purposes.
msbarnes
Well-known
Thanks again but unfortunately you guys aren't helping. My only option is to get the following lenses: 60mm, 80mm, 100mm, 150mm, and 180mm.
Just kidding. I'll look more into the intended use for each design, bigeye. I feel that there aren't really any losers in the line-up. I too have heard the 50mm FLE is better than the non-FLE but 50mm is too wide for me so this is a non-issue.
I'm very happy with my 80mm's on my Flex's so part of me just wants to stick to this focal length and another part of me wants to go 60mm and/or 100mm since it is a little different. I think I can be happy with either option, really.
Another question: Any long strap recommendations? I don't like the connection for gordy straps. Price is secondary but I'm not willing to spend more than $100. I'd prefer something that is 40"-60", black and simple.
Just kidding. I'll look more into the intended use for each design, bigeye. I feel that there aren't really any losers in the line-up. I too have heard the 50mm FLE is better than the non-FLE but 50mm is too wide for me so this is a non-issue.
I'm very happy with my 80mm's on my Flex's so part of me just wants to stick to this focal length and another part of me wants to go 60mm and/or 100mm since it is a little different. I think I can be happy with either option, really.
Another question: Any long strap recommendations? I don't like the connection for gordy straps. Price is secondary but I'm not willing to spend more than $100. I'd prefer something that is 40"-60", black and simple.
Pirate
Guitar playing Fotografer
I have the 38, 60, 80, 150. The 150 stays on there the most. The 80 is just not used much anymore, and the 60 is only for special closeups but I rarely use it.
I would recommend the 120-150 for normal use. Also look at the types of pictures you like and what lens they were made with. I personally like the way the Sonnar renders and so I prefer the 150 and have a 250 Sonnar on the way. I also use a 50mm Sonnar on my Leica M body. There's more to lenses than just the focal length. Planars are nice, Sonnars are my favorite. Distagons are nice too.
I would recommend the 120-150 for normal use. Also look at the types of pictures you like and what lens they were made with. I personally like the way the Sonnar renders and so I prefer the 150 and have a 250 Sonnar on the way. I also use a 50mm Sonnar on my Leica M body. There's more to lenses than just the focal length. Planars are nice, Sonnars are my favorite. Distagons are nice too.