Keith
The best camera is one that still works!
I've come to the conclusion that the 6x6 MF camera I would like to own is the Hasselblad 500 ... but which model I should be looking for I don't really know. Karen Nakamura's site has a page on the Hasselblad 500 system with a lot of dead help links that go nowhere and her explanation of the camera's positives and negatives along with the variants is helpful but very basic.
There appears to be three popular lenses available ... 50mm 80mm and 150mm. I supect the 80mm and the 150mm would be my choices for the shooting I intend but which body should I be looking for? The predominant use would be portrait work and environmental landscapes ... metering in the camera is not that important to me.
In this style of camera with a leaf shutter and a mirror how much effect does the mirror movement have in shooting without lock up ... in other words what is the slowest hand held practical shutter speed?
Lastly ... is a prism advisable if you don't want to be locked into shooting constantly from waist level?
Whoops, and one more question ... what (roughly) should I expect to pay for various body models and lenses?
There appears to be three popular lenses available ... 50mm 80mm and 150mm. I supect the 80mm and the 150mm would be my choices for the shooting I intend but which body should I be looking for? The predominant use would be portrait work and environmental landscapes ... metering in the camera is not that important to me.
In this style of camera with a leaf shutter and a mirror how much effect does the mirror movement have in shooting without lock up ... in other words what is the slowest hand held practical shutter speed?
Lastly ... is a prism advisable if you don't want to be locked into shooting constantly from waist level?
Whoops, and one more question ... what (roughly) should I expect to pay for various body models and lenses?
35mmdelux
Veni, vidi, vici
501CM is the cost effective choice -- for me anyway.
EDIT: The 503CX costs a little more but is electronically synced to flash module, if you shoot flash. Not sure if the 503CX takes the auto winder? The 501CM is fully mechanical and has the gliding mirror to capture the complete projected image for viewing. For handheld shooting I shoot as fast as possible, full aperture mostly; but generally 1/60 would be my slowest. On a tripod simply lock up the mirror.
Lens: I try to sync my 'Blad's-Zeiss lense to my 135mm format. I shoot 60mm/CB (35mm in 135 format) and 100mmCF (60mm in 135 format). Thus a two lens kit. 80mm is nice too but I would suggest going with the newer 80mmCFE--tremendous leap over the previous 80mm's.
The 100mm/3,5 CF is a phenom lens. Razor sharp. I use it for portraits. If softening needed do so on the computer.
Backs: I have 2 filmbacks -- one for 120 and the other for 220 film shooting 50 Velvia -160 Fuji NPH.
Prisms: Tried them all and prefer the WLF. The WLF is ultra compact, while the other 45 prisms add more weight and poor balance IMO. I have a hand digi meter, take one reading, go for it.
The Hasselblad is fairly compact for 6x6. On the road I often take it as the backup to my Leica. The 'Blad for portraits and the Leica for everything else.
Originally I bought my 501CM as a one lens kit with the 60mmCB --but I quickly added the 120mm, then sold the 120 and got the 100mm CF which is smaller and sharper across the spectrum..
Good luck on this journey. P.
EDIT: The 503CX costs a little more but is electronically synced to flash module, if you shoot flash. Not sure if the 503CX takes the auto winder? The 501CM is fully mechanical and has the gliding mirror to capture the complete projected image for viewing. For handheld shooting I shoot as fast as possible, full aperture mostly; but generally 1/60 would be my slowest. On a tripod simply lock up the mirror.
Lens: I try to sync my 'Blad's-Zeiss lense to my 135mm format. I shoot 60mm/CB (35mm in 135 format) and 100mmCF (60mm in 135 format). Thus a two lens kit. 80mm is nice too but I would suggest going with the newer 80mmCFE--tremendous leap over the previous 80mm's.
The 100mm/3,5 CF is a phenom lens. Razor sharp. I use it for portraits. If softening needed do so on the computer.
Backs: I have 2 filmbacks -- one for 120 and the other for 220 film shooting 50 Velvia -160 Fuji NPH.
Prisms: Tried them all and prefer the WLF. The WLF is ultra compact, while the other 45 prisms add more weight and poor balance IMO. I have a hand digi meter, take one reading, go for it.
The Hasselblad is fairly compact for 6x6. On the road I often take it as the backup to my Leica. The 'Blad for portraits and the Leica for everything else.
Originally I bought my 501CM as a one lens kit with the 60mmCB --but I quickly added the 120mm, then sold the 120 and got the 100mm CF which is smaller and sharper across the spectrum..
Good luck on this journey. P.
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benmacphoto
Well-known
If metering is not important go with a 501c body, which can be had for about $250. I would not use the waistlevel finder though, a prism finder is much better to use and I would highly recommend getting one. I like the PM 42307 prism finder, which go for $50.
Lenses are where price will hit you if you want newer lenses.
50mm CF T* $550
80mm CF T* $400
150mm CF T* $300
The lens set up that I like to use however is the 40, 60, 120.
The 120 especially because it is a great portrait lens and a "makro" lens.
For portrait and environmental landscape work maybe just the 60 and 120 could work for you.
60mm CF T* $550
120mm CF T* $550
To answer your question about mirror lock up and slow shutter speeds I would say the safest slow shutter speed would be 1/60. The lenses are a bit heavy so anything slower might have some shake to it.
Lenses are where price will hit you if you want newer lenses.
50mm CF T* $550
80mm CF T* $400
150mm CF T* $300
The lens set up that I like to use however is the 40, 60, 120.
The 120 especially because it is a great portrait lens and a "makro" lens.
For portrait and environmental landscape work maybe just the 60 and 120 could work for you.
60mm CF T* $550
120mm CF T* $550
To answer your question about mirror lock up and slow shutter speeds I would say the safest slow shutter speed would be 1/60. The lenses are a bit heavy so anything slower might have some shake to it.
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rramig
Member
Some Hasselblad Thoughts
Some Hasselblad Thoughts
I agree that the 501c is the most cost effective option. However, the 503cm series has the gliding mirror that does not cut the bottom off the viewfinder image with some lenses (I think its the long ones). The gliding mirror may "minimize" the mirror flop - at least that's the way they advertised it when it first came out.
The lenses you mention are the usual set. I don't use the 50 much. The 80 planar is very sharp and makes an easy to handle package. I find the 150 to be not as sharp as I expected. To use it for tight head and shoulders portraits requires use of an extension ring - 16mm I think. Many think the 180 is extremely sharp when compared to the 150. Also extremely sharp is the 120 macro.
Be prepared for a mirror flop that will rattle your teeth. I use mine on a tripod nearly exclusively, and with mirror lock up when possible, but that is governed by the amount of light. I don't shoot slower than 1/125 with the 80. It's not a package that is easy to hold.
I've had my kit for 20 years, so I have no notion of current prices. However, here in the states used camera cabinets are loaded with HB stuff, so the prices should be good.
EDIT: When buying used lenses, note that repair parts for the original "c" series lenses are getting hard to come by.
--Frank
Some Hasselblad Thoughts
I agree that the 501c is the most cost effective option. However, the 503cm series has the gliding mirror that does not cut the bottom off the viewfinder image with some lenses (I think its the long ones). The gliding mirror may "minimize" the mirror flop - at least that's the way they advertised it when it first came out.
The lenses you mention are the usual set. I don't use the 50 much. The 80 planar is very sharp and makes an easy to handle package. I find the 150 to be not as sharp as I expected. To use it for tight head and shoulders portraits requires use of an extension ring - 16mm I think. Many think the 180 is extremely sharp when compared to the 150. Also extremely sharp is the 120 macro.
Be prepared for a mirror flop that will rattle your teeth. I use mine on a tripod nearly exclusively, and with mirror lock up when possible, but that is governed by the amount of light. I don't shoot slower than 1/125 with the 80. It's not a package that is easy to hold.
I've had my kit for 20 years, so I have no notion of current prices. However, here in the states used camera cabinets are loaded with HB stuff, so the prices should be good.
EDIT: When buying used lenses, note that repair parts for the original "c" series lenses are getting hard to come by.
--Frank
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maddoc
... likes film again.
500 C/M with WLF (waist level finder) was also my choice, two years ago. I only have the 80mm f/2.8 CF T* lens, two A12 backs and a 45 degree prism with meter.
In the beginning, I always wanted a second lens but interestingly for MF, I can live very good with just this one 80mm lens and so far have no intention to buy a second lens. The 45degree finder is nice but I use it rarely for two reasons: a) it adds lots of weight and size b) I have the same problems focusing the lens that made me stop using 135 SLRs. The WLF has a magnifier that helps a lot focusing.
What I found important was changing the original screen against an Accu matte D screnn, much brighter and easier to focus. I think this screen is installed in all newer Hassys starting from the 501 C/M.
In the beginning, I always wanted a second lens but interestingly for MF, I can live very good with just this one 80mm lens and so far have no intention to buy a second lens. The 45degree finder is nice but I use it rarely for two reasons: a) it adds lots of weight and size b) I have the same problems focusing the lens that made me stop using 135 SLRs. The WLF has a magnifier that helps a lot focusing.
What I found important was changing the original screen against an Accu matte D screnn, much brighter and easier to focus. I think this screen is installed in all newer Hassys starting from the 501 C/M.
35mmdelux
Veni, vidi, vici
Mirror Flop:
I dont worry about the mirror flop when I shoot 'Blad. I dont care if it attracts attention; got over that a long time ago. If silence is golden then I shoot Leica. I rarely shoot tripod because I want candid and spontaneous images. Sharp enough at 1/125. To meet shooting 'Blad is akin to driving a muscle car -- its going to get loud and I'm leaving alot of smoke and rubber on the road.
I dont worry about the mirror flop when I shoot 'Blad. I dont care if it attracts attention; got over that a long time ago. If silence is golden then I shoot Leica. I rarely shoot tripod because I want candid and spontaneous images. Sharp enough at 1/125. To meet shooting 'Blad is akin to driving a muscle car -- its going to get loud and I'm leaving alot of smoke and rubber on the road.
fbf
Well-known
starting from late 500cm (classic) I believe.
historicist
Well-known
The 500/501 is probably the most cost effective. Common and cheap; the features on the more expensive ones like ttl flash and better use of long teles are probably irrelevant to most of us here. Internal light metering (503CX) is nice but you pay a fair premium for it.
The Acute Matte screen is well worth it, personally I prefer the wlf to the prism (which adds a lot of bulk to a small camera) but I guess this comes down to preference. But occasionally there are shots that just need a prism.
The early lenses (C and C*) have an ev number system for setting aperture and shutter speed, which are linked together unless you disconnect them. I find this a real pain. The later CF lenses have a independant shutter and aperture rings (you can link them to do ev if you want).
I could hand hold to 1/30th without any problems.
By the way, if you don't mind a bigger camera and less easily available lenses and accessories, it might be worth looking at the Rollei SL66. It's very good for macro and the design is generally a bit better thought out than the Hasselblad.
The Acute Matte screen is well worth it, personally I prefer the wlf to the prism (which adds a lot of bulk to a small camera) but I guess this comes down to preference. But occasionally there are shots that just need a prism.
The early lenses (C and C*) have an ev number system for setting aperture and shutter speed, which are linked together unless you disconnect them. I find this a real pain. The later CF lenses have a independant shutter and aperture rings (you can link them to do ev if you want).
I could hand hold to 1/30th without any problems.
By the way, if you don't mind a bigger camera and less easily available lenses and accessories, it might be worth looking at the Rollei SL66. It's very good for macro and the design is generally a bit better thought out than the Hasselblad.
ishpop
tall person
My 501c is def. the most solid and well constructed camera I have owned.
The 80mm Planar T is also one of the sharpest lenses I've owned, maybe the sharpest... also nice DoF capabilities
example:
The 80mm Planar T is also one of the sharpest lenses I've owned, maybe the sharpest... also nice DoF capabilities
example:
FrankS
Registered User
I have a 500cm with 80mm. I wouldn't buy the older 500c anymore, with the newer models being so (relative to what they did cost) inexpensive. For a single lens, the 80 is perfect IMO. If you can swing 2 lenses, then 60mm and 100mm would be ideal, again IMO. Three lenses: 50, 80, 120 or 150.
I use a 2x doubler with the 80 with surprisingly good results.
I use a 2x doubler with the 80 with surprisingly good results.
Leica All Day
Veteran
I love my 501 CM....I use a standard 80mm lens and I love it....I've tried other lenses in the past (50mm and the 150mm) but I do just fine with the 80mm....no extra finders or anything fancy, just an extra back and a lens shade......they are truly wonderful cameras....I used the basic set up for 3 years everyday in Europe, Asia and the U.S....it was my everyday camera....sadly, for the last 7-8 years, my Leicas have replaced the Hasselblad...that reminds me....maybe later today, I will take it out for a walk around Bangkok.....get one, you won't regret it.....cheers, michael
Cambodia..
Cambodia..
ChrisN
Striving
Ishpop - lovely image, but did the scanner have a hiccup? There's an odd vertical line right through the middle.
Ken Shipman
Well-known
A site with useful information...
http://www.hasselbladhistorical.eu/
Find a 501CM and 80mm Planar and go from there.
Most important: have fun.
http://www.hasselbladhistorical.eu/
Find a 501CM and 80mm Planar and go from there.
Most important: have fun.
mfogiel
Veteran
I would say 501 CM, unless you like the idea of shooting optionally with a motor winder (which includes a remote release device), in that case the 503 CW. As to the lenses, the question is only of the focal length, as all of them are superb. My suggestion would be to start with the 60 and 120, especially if you are into shooting people. The 150 is also an outstanding lens for portraits, while the 180 is clinically sharp. For a landscape kit, I would say the 50 FLE,100 and 180 are the sharpest. Get at least the CF lenses or later. I would recommend a metered pentaprism - even the older one, if you want the advantages of straight composition and faster focusing/shooting (especially if you will get the 503CW with the winder/grip).
Planar 100/3.5:
Planar 100/3.5:
ishpop
tall person
Thanks Chris, been battling these damn vertical lines a lot lately. I keep cleaning all the key areas of the scanner, but its becoming more common.
Nokton48
Veteran
I have two 500CM's and two 500ELMs. Nothing lacking there, I can tell you. I do use www.ninevolt.com adapters in the ELMs, they work great and have no problems. I have 40,50,60,2-80s,100,120,150,250, & 350 black T* lenses, and they are all great. I would steer clear of the 500C, it's getting -too- old, and does not have interchangable screens, but that's not a problem with my cameras. I have several of the meter prisms, they are no longer expensive. Repairs can be, however, similar to auto repairs, in that respect. Loads of great gear are everywhere for extremely low prices. Hasselblad even has a new digital back (not out yet) the CFV39, which looks absolutely awesome, and fits all my old stuff. I will probably get one, eventually
Medium format is a quantum-jump in quality over 35mm. Nothing like real estate, as they say. You'll enjoy your Hasselblad!
Medium format is a quantum-jump in quality over 35mm. Nothing like real estate, as they say. You'll enjoy your Hasselblad!
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ChrisN
Striving
I would say 501 CM, unless you like the idea of shooting optionally with a motor winder (which includes a remote release device), in that case the 503 CW. As to the lenses, the question is only of the focal length, as all of them are superb. My suggestion would be to start with the 60 and 120, especially if you are into shooting people. The 150 is also an outstanding lens for portraits, while the 180 is clinically sharp. For a landscape kit, I would say the 50 FLE,100 and 180 are the sharpest. Get at least the CF lenses or later. I would recommend a metered pentaprism - even the older one, if you want the advantages of straight composition and faster focusing/shooting (especially if you will get the 503CW with the winder/grip).
Planar 100/3.5:
Is this really made with the 100mm? It looks wider, and the depth-of-field/focus is incredible. Nice photo, too!
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Michiel Fokkema
Michiel Fokkema
I use a 500c/m and have 50,60,80,100,120 and 150 lenses.
I mostly use the 50,60 and 100. Sometimes with a 10 or 21 ring for close ups or tight portraits.
I do have a 45 prism but mostly use the chimney finder. It gives a bigger view then the WLF or the prism.
Cheers,
Michiel Fokkema
I mostly use the 50,60 and 100. Sometimes with a 10 or 21 ring for close ups or tight portraits.
I do have a 45 prism but mostly use the chimney finder. It gives a bigger view then the WLF or the prism.
Cheers,
Michiel Fokkema
Nokton48
Veteran
The 100mm F3.5 Zeiss Planar is the sharpest lens in the lineup. Sharpness approaches theoretical limits, with this one. It is amazing, I find I can get by with the 60 and 100, if I want to travel light. Other times, everything but the kitchen sink, and more, with this system
Keith
The best camera is one that still works!
All helpful advice thanks ... after doing a little research I think that the 503CX is not what I need and I could be well served by a 501 or 500CM. I actually found a youtube clip of a guy firing the shutter on a Hassy ... wow not a quiet camera certainly but what a sound!