Shade
Well-known
Can an m9 do this? Simply amazing..
johannielscom
Snorting silver salts
The IR on the M8 would be the one reason I would consider buying one after all.
Switched back from M8 to M3 and M2 but those IR shots are alien and that happens to be something I really like in my work, those out-of-this-world aspects of prints...
Switched back from M8 to M3 and M2 but those IR shots are alien and that happens to be something I really like in my work, those out-of-this-world aspects of prints...
frieri
Established
I don't know, I have never owned a Leica M9.
gshybrid
Well-known
I shot this on my M9 to compare with the shot earlier in this thread shot with same lens and filter on an M8. Similar results although the exposure went from 1/60th to 1 sec.
doolittle
Well-known
I was shooting quite a bit of IR up until I sold my M8. I liked to shoot wide open and push the iso up to 640 so I could use faster shutter speeds.
This one was shot at 1/60 at f4.5 iso 640. I can't get any where near that with my M9.
Super pic, reminds me of Counter Strike on-line game for some reason. M8 is the bomb for infrared!
frieri
Established
Some more...
M8 + Biogon 2/35 + Infrared filter
#1
#2
#3
#4
#5
#6
M8 + Biogon 2/35 + Infrared filter
#1
#2
#3
#4
#5
#6
eef
Established
Inspired by the others, I made an attempt:
eef
Established
Well that didn't work. But you can maybe see the picture here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/efroymson/6848938361/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/efroymson/6848938361/
frieri
Established
eef
Established
Thanks for the tips. I did not do much post processing, as I really am not much for it. It turns out that Aperture has an IR preset, which I used, then tweaked a bit to get what I posted. Any suggestions of good books or web pages to learn a bit more about this stuff?
As to broadleaf vs. conifer, at this time of year all the broad leaves are lying on the ground around here! Not to mention that 90% plus of the trees around here are Pine trees of some sort. But in a couple of months, I can take a short road trip and try the IR filter on some Aspen.
Finally, don't worry about your English! It sure beats my Italian.
Grazie!
Lancer
Member
These are fantastic, I had no idea you could do this with an M8. Now I am even more excited about this camera of mine that I am trying to figure out. I love IR stuff and had no idea my camera could do this. Can someone point me to a tutorial or something showing the process. I can order a filter to shoot with but then???? I dont have Capture 1, can I use something else or will any Raw editor work?? More info on how to do this please!!!!
gbealnz
Well-known
Lancer. Did you get any info?
I did some I/R when I had an M8, but since owning the M9, haven't really tried any.
I am about (this weekend) to swap back the M8 and just own that, so will be tucking into more and more I/R.
In my case I just shot at about 1/30th at about f5.6 or so, using ISO640. I bought a cheapish I/R filter from * bay, and away I went.
Of course it depends on a multitude of things, filter, day, foliage etc, but just get a filter and try (PM me if you need a lead on the filter to try etc).
Processing? I open the image in LR and go from there, normally making it greyscale at the first and tweaking from there.
Just try it, if there was ever a reason to have an M8 it is I/R, no other camera I have used has allowed handheld I/R before.
Gary
I did some I/R when I had an M8, but since owning the M9, haven't really tried any.
I am about (this weekend) to swap back the M8 and just own that, so will be tucking into more and more I/R.
In my case I just shot at about 1/30th at about f5.6 or so, using ISO640. I bought a cheapish I/R filter from * bay, and away I went.
Of course it depends on a multitude of things, filter, day, foliage etc, but just get a filter and try (PM me if you need a lead on the filter to try etc).
Processing? I open the image in LR and go from there, normally making it greyscale at the first and tweaking from there.
Just try it, if there was ever a reason to have an M8 it is I/R, no other camera I have used has allowed handheld I/R before.
Gary
gshybrid
Well-known
Lancer
It's fairly simple with an M8
Get yourself a Hoya r72 filter to fit your lens. With my M8 I mostly used a cv15mm with a 52mm filter. I shot wide open, auto exsposure, auto ISO set so the shutter never dropped below 1/60th and the ISO never above 640. Focus set shy of infinity. I have a set on flickr here all shot handheld.
I post processed with camera raw to desaturate and generally crank the contrast and clarity.
Now I have an M9 and good results are much harder to come by. Definitely no more hand held auto exposure shots.
It's fairly simple with an M8
Get yourself a Hoya r72 filter to fit your lens. With my M8 I mostly used a cv15mm with a 52mm filter. I shot wide open, auto exsposure, auto ISO set so the shutter never dropped below 1/60th and the ISO never above 640. Focus set shy of infinity. I have a set on flickr here all shot handheld.
I post processed with camera raw to desaturate and generally crank the contrast and clarity.
Now I have an M9 and good results are much harder to come by. Definitely no more hand held auto exposure shots.
frieri
Established
Some IR shots from my last portfolio dedicated to the archeological area of Fiavè (Trentino - Italy), a protected biotope which has remained unspoilt and it hosts the remains of pile-dwelling structures dating back to 2300 b.C.
The portfolio is made of 15 images: http://www.robertofrieri.net/biotope.html
Hope you like it.
M8 + Elmar 3.8/24
B+W Infrared filter
Capture One 6 Pro
The portfolio is made of 15 images: http://www.robertofrieri.net/biotope.html
Hope you like it.
M8 + Elmar 3.8/24
B+W Infrared filter
Capture One 6 Pro
Jim Evidon
Jim
I just started to try IR with my M8. I had a Hoya 72 filter which is pretty much the same transmissibility as the B&W 092. I bought the filter to use on my Nikon D300 without realizing that the sensor's IR cut filter pretty much makes the camera useless with an IR filter on the lens. Fortunately, the M8 has a very weak sensor cut filter and it can do IR photography pretty well.
Anyway, after reading some threads, I simply used the sunny 16 rule: ISO 160 at f16 which gives a shutter swpeed of 1/160 sec.. I then multiplied 1/160 sec by the filter factor (20-40) by splitting the difference at 30. The result was 1/4 second @f16 with ISO 160 on a sunny day. The results came out using my M8 with the Hoya 72 filter great on the first try.
I suggest that in Lightroom, applying the preset filter for Infrared to get rid of the reddish cast, bumping up the contrast to +70, and toning down the highlights by 20. You may then want to apply high pass sharpening to the result with the slider set at 30 to 50. I found that the M8 is a bit noisy shooting IR even at ISO160 but is rather grain like. Any good noise plug-in can take care of that. Accurate focus is a bit difficult to be right on due to the difference between IR wave length and visible light wave length so I'll have to play with that some. But the DOF @ f16 is pretty forgiving.
I'm just starting with IR, but I think these parameters seem to be a good starting point.
Anyway, after reading some threads, I simply used the sunny 16 rule: ISO 160 at f16 which gives a shutter swpeed of 1/160 sec.. I then multiplied 1/160 sec by the filter factor (20-40) by splitting the difference at 30. The result was 1/4 second @f16 with ISO 160 on a sunny day. The results came out using my M8 with the Hoya 72 filter great on the first try.
I suggest that in Lightroom, applying the preset filter for Infrared to get rid of the reddish cast, bumping up the contrast to +70, and toning down the highlights by 20. You may then want to apply high pass sharpening to the result with the slider set at 30 to 50. I found that the M8 is a bit noisy shooting IR even at ISO160 but is rather grain like. Any good noise plug-in can take care of that. Accurate focus is a bit difficult to be right on due to the difference between IR wave length and visible light wave length so I'll have to play with that some. But the DOF @ f16 is pretty forgiving.
I'm just starting with IR, but I think these parameters seem to be a good starting point.
jaapv
RFF Sponsoring Member.
The exposure meter on the M8 will measure correctly when using an IR filter.
Depending on the lens, it is often correct to use the DOF scale 5.6 mark for scale focussing. And focus-bracket. To get the B&W balance sand contrast right just hit the image with the color balance eyedropper tool and take it from there with curves.
Depending on the lens, it is often correct to use the DOF scale 5.6 mark for scale focussing. And focus-bracket. To get the B&W balance sand contrast right just hit the image with the color balance eyedropper tool and take it from there with curves.
Jim Evidon
Jim
An IR novice's first attempt
An IR novice's first attempt
I just started to try IR with my M8. I had a Hoya 72 filter which is pretty much the same transmissibility as the B&W 092. I bought the filter several years ago to use on my Nikon D300 without realizing that the Nikon sensor's IR cut filter pretty much makes the camera useless with an IR filter on the lens. Fortunately, the M8 has a very weak sensor cut filter and it can do IR photography pretty well.
Anyway, after reading some threads, I simply used the sunny 16 rule: ISO 160 at f16 which gives a shutter speed of 1/160 sec.. I then multiplied 1/160 sec by the filter factor (20-40) by splitting the difference at 30. The result was 1/4 second @f16 with ISO 160 on a sunny day. The results came out using my M8 with the Hoya 72 filter great on the first try.
I suggest that in Lightroom, applying the preset filter for Infrared to get rid of the reddish cast, bumping up the contrast to +70, and toning down the highlights by 20. You may then want to apply high pass sharpening in Photoshop to the result with the slider set at 30 to 50. I found that the M8 is a bit noisy shooting IR even at ISO160 but is rather grain like and not too bad. Any good noise plug-in can take care of that. Accurate focus is a bit difficult to be right on due to the difference between IR wave length and visible light wave length so I'll have to play with that some. But the DOF @ f16 is pretty forgiving.
I'm just starting with IR, but I think these parameters seem to be a good starting point for me. The 52 mm Nikon sized 72 filter fit my Nokton f1.2 35mm lens so that is what I used to experiment. I have now ordered a 39mm B&W 092 filter for my more standard Leica lenses.
An IR novice's first attempt
I just started to try IR with my M8. I had a Hoya 72 filter which is pretty much the same transmissibility as the B&W 092. I bought the filter several years ago to use on my Nikon D300 without realizing that the Nikon sensor's IR cut filter pretty much makes the camera useless with an IR filter on the lens. Fortunately, the M8 has a very weak sensor cut filter and it can do IR photography pretty well.
Anyway, after reading some threads, I simply used the sunny 16 rule: ISO 160 at f16 which gives a shutter speed of 1/160 sec.. I then multiplied 1/160 sec by the filter factor (20-40) by splitting the difference at 30. The result was 1/4 second @f16 with ISO 160 on a sunny day. The results came out using my M8 with the Hoya 72 filter great on the first try.
I suggest that in Lightroom, applying the preset filter for Infrared to get rid of the reddish cast, bumping up the contrast to +70, and toning down the highlights by 20. You may then want to apply high pass sharpening in Photoshop to the result with the slider set at 30 to 50. I found that the M8 is a bit noisy shooting IR even at ISO160 but is rather grain like and not too bad. Any good noise plug-in can take care of that. Accurate focus is a bit difficult to be right on due to the difference between IR wave length and visible light wave length so I'll have to play with that some. But the DOF @ f16 is pretty forgiving.
I'm just starting with IR, but I think these parameters seem to be a good starting point for me. The 52 mm Nikon sized 72 filter fit my Nokton f1.2 35mm lens so that is what I used to experiment. I have now ordered a 39mm B&W 092 filter for my more standard Leica lenses.
Jim Evidon
Jim
Sounds like a simpler approach. Here is another approach from a member of the Leica users forum known as pinspot:
"..Do, do get an IR filter, Heloipan do a good range of them at a fair price
Set the colour temp to 2000, ISO to 320, shoot in RAW - and you've got digital IR photography - handheld on a good bright day - dead easy...."
I'll try them all and thanks for the many inputs.
Snowbuzz
Well-known
Well this is my first attempt with the M8. Looks kinda weird: I don't think I did it right. I'll check out some tutorials on the web.
Jim Evidon
Jim
Snowbuzz,
I like it very much. Nice mood. I tried several methods and the one I included in my previous comment:
Set the "..color temp to 2000, ISO to 320, shoot in RAW - and you've got digital IR photography - handheld on a good bright day - dead easy...."
worked very well. Better detail than my previous method and dead simple. I also used the f5.6 mark as the index focusing mark and got pretty sharp focus.
I like it very much. Nice mood. I tried several methods and the one I included in my previous comment:
Set the "..color temp to 2000, ISO to 320, shoot in RAW - and you've got digital IR photography - handheld on a good bright day - dead easy...."
worked very well. Better detail than my previous method and dead simple. I also used the f5.6 mark as the index focusing mark and got pretty sharp focus.
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