Sony A7 original + Leica M Lenses + Focus Peaking?

[dugrant153]

Hey folks,

So I just noticed that the Sony A7 original is still available for sale. I've been toying with the idea of mounting my Leica M lenses to a digital camera but

-Fuji cameras crop the lenses
-Leica M digital rangefinders are prohibitively expensive (For me).

Anyone use a Sony A7 "classic" with Leica M lenses? How are you folks liking it?

 

[Michael Markey]

Recently bought an A7s for my M lenses
Couldn't be more pleased
I was sceptical about peaking at first but it works really well ... much better than I thought it would
I'm even able to maintain focus on fast moving objects which is something I couldn't do with my RF's

 

[Peter Jennings]

Have been using an A7 for 2 years now. I had a Nex-6 before it and I miss its compact size, but being able to shoot full frame has been wonderful. I've been using my LTM and Nikon RF lenses on it without any issues. The widest I have is a 2.8cm W-Nikkor. There can be issues with corner sharpness with some wider angle lenses, but I haven't noticed any problems with the 2.8cm. Focus peaking hasn't been a problem for me with any of the Sonys (Sonies?).

 

[Scrambler]

Like you I'm hoping to eventually make it to full frame 🙂

The A7s is reported to be the most flexible with lens angles - but only 12MP

I currently use a 20MP APS-C Sony. I get good images with most lenses, but the annoying factor is that wider lenses are slower - and if using adapted 35mm lenses it's definitely noticeable. Wider angle lenses vignette, though not all lenses behave as you might expect - Jupiter 12 seems to be fine.

There were quite a few reviews a few years ago so check them out. The sense was that the A7 was good with all normals and longer, and some wides. As I say above, the A7s is reportedly better with wides as well as better with low light, but only 12MP.

 

[deerstalkr]

I bought an A7 for my brother so I could borrow it occasionally. It produces fantastic results when paired with an M lens, but I've noticed some vignetting on my 35mm Summicron ASPH, which would irk me if it were my mine. Fortunately, I can return it to him at the end of the day, go back to shooting it on an M body, and forget about the vignetting.

 

[sevres_babylone]

...
I was sceptical about peaking at first but it works really ... much better than I thought it would
I'm even able to maintain focus on fast moving objects which is something I couldn't do with my RF's

Michael, what settings are you using with focus peaking. I have the A7SII, was looking forward to focus peaking after using the original E-M5 that lacked it, but have been disappointed in that I've found it suggests things are in focus when they are not really.

OP, the answers you are getting from people with the A7 are obviously the most relevant, but on my A7SII I have been happy with my results using the "Voigtlander Nokton 40mm f1.4 SC", the Canon 50mm F.1.4 LTM, and a Canon 85mm F2 ltm. With the last, I enjoy using ti more on the Sony than I did on the M9 because I'm not having to look at just the tiny part of the viewfinder.

I have been using magnification as my focus assist, and have found it accurate, though it slows me down.

 

[kxl]

With the A7, you do have to watch out for smearing on the edges and corners of quite a few wide angle adapted lenses. Note that smearing is NOT something you can correct in post. If you do intend to adapt M-mount WA lenses on an A7, I would strongly suggest sending the body to Kolari Vision for their thin filter modification.

 

[Michael Markey]

Michael, what settings are you using with focus peaking. I have the A7SII, was looking forward to focus peaking after using the original E-M5 that lacked it, but have been disappointed in that I've found it suggests things are in focus when they are not really.

I don`t think I`m doing anything special just chose to highlight in red.🙂
I sometimes .... like today...use it with a Canon 70-200/2.8 and find that its not always accurate at longer focal lengths.

I`m probably really pushing it using it like a sports dslr and so I`m considering swapping back to my dslr for the outdoor horsey stuff.

I have M glass in 28/50/90 and 135 and its fine with all those lengths.

 

[Emile de Leon]

I have owned the a7 for a couple of years now..good relatively cheap option for FF...M lenses mostly good on it..unless you are a corner sharpness WA freak..
It's light and does the job..and aside from its shortcomings..entirely usable and produces great images..

 

[Stuart John]

The A7 is likely the cheapest option for full frame digital and M lenses. I've been using mine with the 50mm Voigtlander Nokton for the last few years as well as the 35mm f2.5 color skopar both are LTM versions. The 35mm is not great in the corners on the A7 but it works for me. I also use my AIs Nikkors on the A7 too.
Overall I have been pleased with the A7 as my manual focus body. Of course I would like a digital M body but I can't and won't justify the cost.
I do use the LTM lens on my M5 and they work great on that too.

In some ways I wish that I would have never tried digital photography though. I do feel that I would have been happier just sticking with B&W film and a darkroom however time moves on and I don't have a permanent darkroom anymore. Setting up and tearing down is a hassle especially for just a couple of hours printing at a time.
So for me the A7 has been a great option, I particularly like the accurate manual focus and I can get the results I want from the A7.

 

[Peter Jennings]

I have the A7SII, was looking forward to focus peaking after using the original E-M5 that lacked it, but have been disappointed in that I've found it suggests things are in focus when they are not really.

I have been using magnification as my focus assist, and have found it accurate, though it slows me down.

Peaking alone works well with larger apertures, but if I need precise focus I will always use the magnification. IMO, it's both of these features that make manual focussing a useful option on the A7. I'll usually rough focus with peaking and then zoom in for fine focussing. It's all second nature now and is just about as fast as focussing with any other manual focus camera to me.

 

[sevres_babylone]

Thanks, Peter Jennings and Michael Markey -- I'll give peaking another try.

 

[Scrambler]

Thanks, Peter Jennings and Michael Markey -- I'll give peaking another try.

As above this is advice from a different Sony, but the technique is similar.

I have mapped a key (well, on my Sony, the only programmable key) to call up the enlarged view. It works for 2 presses to full magnification.

The red contrast surrounding works well - is more precise with higher magnification. I use it similar to the central RF spot - put it where it will pick up, which is similar features to the RF - vertical lines. If horizontal lines, turn the camera 90 degrees.

The viewfinder drops out of enlargement when you press the shutter button. 1/2 press, reframe and shoot.

 

[dugrant153]

As above this is advice from a different Sony, but the technique is similar.

I have mapped a key (well, on my Sony, the only programmable key) to call up the enlarged view. It works for 2 presses to full magnification.

The red contrast surrounding works well - is more precise with higher magnification. I use it similar to the central RF spot - put it where it will pick up, which is similar features to the RF - vertical lines. If horizontal lines, turn the camera 90 degrees.

The viewfinder drops out of enlargement when you press the shutter button. 1/2 press, reframe and shoot.

This seems to be quite similar to how I'm currently operating my Fuji XT10 with an adaptor. View the scene, press button for magnification (in this case one step and I can scroll the wheel to make it closer or farther magnification), and then press the shutter to take the shot.

This will probably take a ton of practice to get right.... so what I'm wondering is if the A7 classic has a large enough viewfinder so that you can focus pretty quickly? Thoughts? My XT10 is good but somewhat tiny...

 

[Scrambler]

Well, mine's an A3000 - the cheapest end of Sony's lineup at the time (but a decent sensor). The VF is appalling - but hits focus quite well. The A7 has one of the highest quality video VFs available - matching or exceeding visual acuity. I would imagine it works ok - but someone with a real one can tell us both.

 

[Emile de Leon]

I don't use focus peaking on the A7..dont need it..just magnify and you are done..and its more accurate than focus peaking...
The viewfinder and screen are nice..but when doing video..what you see..is not what you get..it over exposes unless you remember to stop down a stop or so..

 

[Strangefinder]

i use this method:
https://phillipreeve.net/blog/manual-lenses-sony-a7/
scroll down to "A third method"
or read all, its worth it.

 

[Michael Markey]

I don't use focus peaking on the A7..dont need it..just magnify and you are done..and its more accurate than focus peaking...
The viewfinder and screen are nice..but when doing video..what you see..is not what you get..it over exposes unless you remember to stop down a stop or so..

That`s what I find too Emile .... always fighting the over exposure.

 

[AlwaysOnAuto]

Could I offer this solution?
Save up for an A7ii and get a TAP adapter too. You'll gain auto focus with manual lenses as well as image stabilization. It's been worth it to me.

 

[Scrambler]

Could I offer this solution?
Save up for an A7ii and get a TAP adapter too. You'll gain auto focus with manual lenses as well as image stabilization. It's been worth it to me.

And tempting as I find this, there are issues with the adapters with slight wear causing miscalibration across the image frame. It's a genius idea (Leica mount AF on a Sony) but the engineering is still at beta phase.