Sorry but a couple of real novice questions

[Pirate]

I don't think I'm too far off from your method above. I use non-hardening fixer, then the hypo clear, then one full rinse, then the fill-agitate-dump, repeat. I do this for about ten minutes. Some places where I develop (relatives homes) have a well. Since they don't pay for the water, and don't mind, I do a continuous running water rinse for ten minutes. If I'm using a system at one of my college campuses, they have a continuous running rinse tank.

After the rinse I'll do about 30 seconds or so with the photo flo, then shake off the reel and dry, either hang in a cabinet or an air dryer.

I would really like my film to be around in a hundred years for my future family members to see what I have seen.

 

[Dhughes]

Thanks again for all the replies and encouragement. I'll defiantly be going for the liquid based chemicals and probably go for the cheaper films mentioned. Could someone point me in the direction of a tutorial about using water as a stop or explain it a little?

Cheers

 

[Roger Hicks]

Thanks again for all the replies and encouragement. I'll defiantly be going for the liquid based chemicals and probably go for the cheaper films mentioned. Could someone point me in the direction of a tutorial about using water as a stop or explain it a little?

Cheers

Literally, just dump out the dev; tip in water at the same temperature; agitate for 30 sec; tip in the fix.

Cheers,

R.

 

[MartinP]

Literally, just dump out the dev; tip in water at the same temperature; agitate for 30 sec; tip in the fix.

Like Roger says - but better empty the water out before the fix goes in 😉

In case this is the next question, for paper there would be expected to be more developer agent in the emulsion (as it's thicker) so a stop-bath makes an important contribution to stopping all of the residual development action as quickly and evenly as possible - as compared to someone trying a water stop-bath for paper. In fact, in times past, a water bath was used for contrast control by letting the residual developer work a little longer, with some developers.

 

[NeeZee]

Literally, just dump out the dev; tip in water at the same temperature; agitate for 30 sec; tip in the fix.

Cheers,

R.

What Roger said, but just to make it VERY clear: dump out the water before you tip in the fix! 😉

 

[NeeZee]

beat me to it, martin...

 

[ColSebastianMoran]

Hold on. How are you washing your film?

For decades I've used the Ilford method.

Use non-hardening fixer (hardening fixers have not been needed for any Ilford or Kodak films for a very long time).

Drain the tank of fixer. Fill with water at about the same temperature as the fixer. Invert 5 times. Drain.

Repeat, but invert 10 times.

Repeat, but invert 20 times.

The film will now be washed to ANSI archival standard.

It's almost impossible to believe, but it's true.

In fact, I add two more steps before drying. After the above sequence I fill the tank with distilled or de-ionized water and invert 20 times. Hard water washes better than soft, but can leave drying marks.

Finally, a 30 second rinse in distilled water with a few drops of Agepon (Agfa's version of Photo-Flo) added.

Elapsed time maybe 5 min. Water usage: a pint and a half from the tap, a pint of distilled
(for 2x 35m films in a stainless tank).

Cheers,

R.

Roger, thanks. I didn't know this. My thanks to you and all the other real "pros" here for sharing your knowledge and experience.

 

[Dhughes]

Oh right that's easy enough then, thanks 🙂

 

[Roger Hicks]

Like Roger says - but better empty the water out before the fix goes in 😉

Fair enough!

Cheers,

R.