wupdigoj
Established
About the amount of developer, I use 2 ml of rodinal (actually fomadon R09) plus 260 ml of water for a 36 exp of tmax 100 in a jobo tank. No problem with this, but YMMV.
Javier
Javier
wjlapier
Well-known
My first attempt at stand development using Rodinal.
I have two rolls of Tmax 100 I accidently shot at 400. I shot these rolls last April and forgot about them so I figured I'd use them as test subjects. Both rolls are in a tank with 700ml of developer. 30 sec agitation.
How long should these rolls stay in the tank? Agitate more?
Appreciate any suggestions if they come quickly
I have two rolls of Tmax 100 I accidently shot at 400. I shot these rolls last April and forgot about them so I figured I'd use them as test subjects. Both rolls are in a tank with 700ml of developer. 30 sec agitation.
How long should these rolls stay in the tank? Agitate more?
Appreciate any suggestions if they come quickly
morback
Martin N. Hinze
135mn (60X1.5X1.5), agitate slowly first minute, one inversion every 30mn after.
I have found T grain films resilient to all halos and streak issues mentioned above (I've been using Acros lately).
I have found T grain films resilient to all halos and streak issues mentioned above (I've been using Acros lately).
wjlapier
Well-known
135mn (60X1.5X1.5), agitate slowly first minute, one inversion every 30mn after.
I have found T grain films resilient to all halos and streak issues mentioned above (I've been using Acros lately).
Thank you!
jan normandale
Film is the other way
Frank, I've posted a long time ago on Rodinal 1 hr stands.. it's in RFF somewhere. Bromide drag can be an issue so I leave the bottom spool of the tank in place to reduce that risk.
Because I believe a lot of developing is "voodoo" in the most positive way, I'm not using the "One Hour Stand" as much though I continue to use it and I still like it. Currently I'm using HC110 (I'm not smart enough to develop this process on my own it's someone else's that I've modified slightly)
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"Famous Photographer.. insert name here..___ ___" HC110 dilution G (syrup 1:120) as a compensating developer to increase shadow detail without blocking highlights.
Developing time, for Tri-X, is about 18 minutes at 68°F (20°C), with continuous agitation for the first minute and subsequent gentle agitation for 15 seconds every 3 minutes.
For development of the shadows, agitate slowly do not agitate vigorously.
the Honest Ed's shot is 1 hr stand w Rodinal; the barber chair is the HC110 process.
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Because I believe a lot of developing is "voodoo" in the most positive way, I'm not using the "One Hour Stand" as much though I continue to use it and I still like it. Currently I'm using HC110 (I'm not smart enough to develop this process on my own it's someone else's that I've modified slightly)
____________________________
"Famous Photographer.. insert name here..___ ___" HC110 dilution G (syrup 1:120) as a compensating developer to increase shadow detail without blocking highlights.
Developing time, for Tri-X, is about 18 minutes at 68°F (20°C), with continuous agitation for the first minute and subsequent gentle agitation for 15 seconds every 3 minutes.
For development of the shadows, agitate slowly do not agitate vigorously.
the Honest Ed's shot is 1 hr stand w Rodinal; the barber chair is the HC110 process.
________________________________
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wjlapier
Well-known
I'm sold. Almost 1 year old un-developed film. No temp control. No precise timing. Only regret--used my fingers as a squeegee--I never do that. I was in a hurry to see results. Over all I'd say I'm pleased with the results. Two more rolls to try tomorrow. A few "keepers". Shot with M3 and DR cron. Tmax 100 @ 400.
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