Stand development tanksize and pushing RPX400 to 1600 in Rodinal

[Tijmendal]

Hi,

I've reading up on pushing with stand development as much as I can (I've scoured the interent and read around 30 articles/posts/threads on it). The only problem is, that EVERYONE seems to be doing it differently. I'm confused.😛
I want to use Rodinal for the process (only one-shot I have right now). I've seen people say 1:00, but others who are swearing by AT LEAST 5ml/roll, which is weird, cause I use 6ml per roll when developing normally. I've seen one guy say: 1:100, 1 hour (30 secs of agitation in the beginning), regardless of speed and whether you push or pull.
Then there's the issue of tank size; I didn't know this before, but a lot of people are talking about using a larger tank than your normally would; required or just a myth? I got a bunch of larger tanks, so using a bigger tank is no problem. How would I go about using this tank? Just filling it for an 'extra' roll with 1:100 and let 'er rip?
Any clarity is appreciated.

Thanks!

 

[Mablo]

When I do Rodinal stand development I use a half a liter tank for one roll of film (35mm). I dilute 5ml of Rodinal in 500ml of water (18-20C). I agitate about one minute continuously and place the tank upright in a water bath (same water temperature than in the dev tank). The water bath is important because it reduces the iffy halo effect between the bright parts and the dark parts of the negative. Then I wait for 30 minutes after which I insert the tank just one time. I'll wait for additional 15 minutes or a bit more before the film roll is ready for washing and fixing etc.

In my own opinion pushing your negatives with Rodinal more than one stop max (whatever development method you choose) is waste of time. There are so much better developers for that purpose. D-76 is one good example.

 

[raytoei@gmail.com]

hi, rpx 400 = kentmere 400.

i push kentmere 400 regularly in Kodak XTOL.

Rodinal is best for lower speed film and not really for pushing. It doesn't mean it can't be used, it's just that ther may be a lack of shadow details, or the contrast may be too high, and more likely the grains may be huge.

I suggest you check the film section, i have posted several comments on kentmere 400 @ 1600.

thanks

 

[Tijmendal]

I know Rodinal is best used with slower-speed films, but it's all I have right now (I don't trust my D-76 anymore).
Guess I'll just get some new/different developer then and experiment with Rodinal/stand some other time.

 

[gsgary]

This is Tmax100 (25 years out of date) shot at 400 1 hour stand developed in Rodinal 1+100 + 12grams Sodium Sulphite (300ml total liquid) 1 reel in a 2 reel tank, i would try APX400 @1600 1 hour stand, ive got some APX100 that i might shoot at 400 and develope as above

 

[Tijmendal]

Whoa, 25 years? Thanks for those samples!
Is stand dev the cure for expired B/W film?

 

[Gregoyle]

For stand development the dilution doesn't really matter all that much. I use 3.5 - 4 mL's of Rodinal per roll depending on the ambient temperature (cooler = more). Then I use whatever amount of distilled water that it takes to cover the film. I don't worry about dilution (it works out to around 1:100 anyway in my plastic tank).

The reason a lot of people advocate using more water than is necessary is so they can raise the reel up from the bottom in the tank. The idea is that over time some of the Rodinal might settle to the bottom and unevenly develop the roll. By avoiding the bottom of the tank those people are attempting to avoid that problem. I have not really experienced this issue, but I raise my reel a little bit just in case anyway.

One of the members on this forum, and I feel terrible because this is great advice and I can't remember who it was, posted a method to avoid the terrible "sprocket hole streaking" problem you sometimes find on stand developed rolls. His theory is that the streaking arose from water heating up as it warms to room temperature and coming through the sprocket holes. His solution was to use water that is exactly at room temperature, i.e. it has been sitting in a jug for a few days. The actual temperature doesn't matter that much unless it is really hot or cold. I have done this and I have never had a sprocket hole issue (neither had he).

As far as time goes, I usually do 30 seconds of inversions followed by 60 minutes of standing for pushing Tri-X to 1600. For 3200 and 6400 I do 90 minutes with a couple inversions at 45.