imokruok
Well-known
Make sure to check KEH for Bessas. They pop up there once in a while, usually in like new or EX+ condition, probably because people never got used to manual focus or liked it and traded to a Leica.
For a 50mm lens, this is probably more than you want to spend, but the Konica M-Hexanon f/2 is a great 50mm for under $500. Closer to $400 if you're lucky. A pic of a Bessa/Konica combo on Flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/cdnphoto/2192730947/
For a 50mm lens, this is probably more than you want to spend, but the Konica M-Hexanon f/2 is a great 50mm for under $500. Closer to $400 if you're lucky. A pic of a Bessa/Konica combo on Flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/cdnphoto/2192730947/
aizan
Veteran
just nerding out here, but i'm going to suggest the bessa r2s. stephen just found some NOS 35/2.5 sc skopars, which were sold out for a while. he also has a three lens package on sale: 50/1.5, 50/2.5, and 85/3.5. the doubling up on 50mm lenses is a bit irksome, especially when the r2s nhs set comes with a 50/3.5, but you might not complain for $500. 
cny3123
Established
Wow! Thanks all for some great advice and discussion going on here.
The 40 1.4 is looking like a better choice and sounds like a sound decision with a Bessa R3 perhaps. I am not sure however what other lens i would want to add to that. Honestly I don't use telephoto's all that much so perhaps the R3 plus the Nokton 40 would be a good start.
The 40 1.4 is looking like a better choice and sounds like a sound decision with a Bessa R3 perhaps. I am not sure however what other lens i would want to add to that. Honestly I don't use telephoto's all that much so perhaps the R3 plus the Nokton 40 would be a good start.
brachal
Refrigerated User
It hasn't been said yet, but do not collapse a collapsible lens into a Bessa. It can damage the shutter.
I started out with a Bessa-R and Industar-61ld. A good combination, but Soviet lenses can have quality control problems. The Voigtlander 35mm f/2.5 and 28mm f/3.5 Skopars are fantastic.
I started out with a Bessa-R and Industar-61ld. A good combination, but Soviet lenses can have quality control problems. The Voigtlander 35mm f/2.5 and 28mm f/3.5 Skopars are fantastic.
thegman
Veteran
I agree with those suggesting the R3A and 40mm, was very nearly my first rangefinder, and it looks like a nice kit. I would suggest that you get the R3A and not R3M, I'm quite sure the R3M is a great camera, but aperture priority lets you shoot faster if that's what you're into. You could also check out the Zeiss Ikon, it's very similar to the R3A, but probably a bit prettier.
Roger Hicks
Veteran
cny3123
Established
True I can see how aperture priority could be convenient, but manual with a meter to me is just as easy as well. I think honestly if I can find a used Bessa R2 or R3 at a decent price I'll go with it. From looking around though I haven't seen to many on the used market. KEH had a couple Bessas and that was about it.
I may just save up and go for new equipment.
The other thing I'm trying to figure out is if I should just keep my Olympus 35SP and shoot with that instead, as that is a 42mm 1.7 on it, the only issue being that it is a fixed lens.
I may just save up and go for new equipment.
The other thing I'm trying to figure out is if I should just keep my Olympus 35SP and shoot with that instead, as that is a 42mm 1.7 on it, the only issue being that it is a fixed lens.
Juan Valdenebro
Truth is beauty
I agree with Roger: overriding AE can be a pain... And fine tuning, unless we talk about color negative, AE is not the most precise feature and can result in 90% shots of a trip totally wasted, because white walls, sky and light sources are not uncommon...
Cheers,
Juan
Cheers,
Juan
filmfan
Well-known
Bessa R + 35mm Voigtlander Ultron f/1.7 = a true "starter kit"
Tompas
Wannabe Künstler
[About aperture priority being faster:]
Yes, probably a matter of technique or style or being used to. I use my cameras in 'manual mode' most of the time.
The real advantage (according to my taste) of the R3a over the R3m is that it can be locked. The R3m has no shutter release lock. (I believe pre-TTL M6s also have none.) I imagine that to be extremely annoying.
On the other hand my R3a 'froze' on some walks last winter. I learned: keep it under the jacket when it's really cold. No big deal.
Yes, probably a matter of technique or style or being used to. I use my cameras in 'manual mode' most of the time.
The real advantage (according to my taste) of the R3a over the R3m is that it can be locked. The R3m has no shutter release lock. (I believe pre-TTL M6s also have none.) I imagine that to be extremely annoying.
On the other hand my R3a 'froze' on some walks last winter. I learned: keep it under the jacket when it's really cold. No big deal.
Juan Valdenebro
Truth is beauty
Right now cameraquest.com has a used R3A for a very tempting price: $469! It meters in manual too, so you can use it like an R3M... Or, order a new R3M for $589...
Cheers,
Juan
cny3123
Established
Thanks for the heads up Juan, I'm going to hold off for a bit on any purchases though because I want to make sure that it isn't just going to be an impulse buy. As I already said, I have the Olympus for now with a 42mm, so unless I really decide to go for a multi lens set up I am not convinced that for the money it will be worth the purchase.
The biggest issue I have with the 35 SP is that the fastest shutter speed is limited to 1/500th of a sec, vs say the 1/2000th of a second with the Voigtlander Bessa's
The biggest issue I have with the 35 SP is that the fastest shutter speed is limited to 1/500th of a sec, vs say the 1/2000th of a second with the Voigtlander Bessa's
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Bingley
Veteran
Chris -- I may have an R3A for sale in the near future. No rush. But if, after thinking it over, you're interested, pm me.
cny3123
Established
Steve thanks for the heads up, I will let you know what my plans are. I am thinking I may want to go for one as the more I think about it, there have been times where a faster shutter speed than 1/500th would have been very nice without having to stop down to the smallest aperture possible.
Austerby
Well-known
Yet another vote for R3A + 40mm - a great match, as it is with a 75mm lens too.
Of course the nice thing about the A series is that you have the choice of both aperture priority and manual modes and the only penalty is the need to carry some small spare batteries with you on important occasions.
My original batteries expired after a couple of years and I had no spares on me at the time, fortunately I found somewhere selling replacements within five minutes or so and was back using the camera within the half hour all told.
Of course the nice thing about the A series is that you have the choice of both aperture priority and manual modes and the only penalty is the need to carry some small spare batteries with you on important occasions.
My original batteries expired after a couple of years and I had no spares on me at the time, fortunately I found somewhere selling replacements within five minutes or so and was back using the camera within the half hour all told.
gb hill
Veteran
Your also limited by the ASA setting. 800 I think on the SP. I have the Canon GIII & it's a fun camera, but on those bright sunny days I'm sure glad when my Bessa R is with me! especially if I have a 400 speed film loaded!
cny3123
Established
You are correct about being limited to ASA 800 with the SP.
Thanks all for the advice, the R3A/M is sounding a lot better now with a 40mm. I may look into selling my Olympus SP and some other stuff to cover the cost of the Bessa. We shall see. Definitely need to think some things over, but everyone has been a great help so far! Thanks again.
Again, if anyone else has anything to add feel free, but I think I have a far better idea on what I would want now.
Thanks all for the advice, the R3A/M is sounding a lot better now with a 40mm. I may look into selling my Olympus SP and some other stuff to cover the cost of the Bessa. We shall see. Definitely need to think some things over, but everyone has been a great help so far! Thanks again.
Again, if anyone else has anything to add feel free, but I think I have a far better idea on what I would want now.
Leigh Youdale
Well-known
I'm not quite sure what experience base with Bessas has prompted either of these comments.
First, to "over-ride" AE you simply move the the speed dial off "A". Thereafter you either go fully manual (i.e. estimating the exposures) or you use the meter facility in the viewfinder and adjust the aperture or shutter speed according to taste.
Second, most Bessa users find the AE gives very good exposure control and with the under/over exposure settings on the shutter dial giving a full two stops in either direction it's the simplest thing to note any excess of light or dark in the scene and move the dial.
Leigh Youdale
Well-known
Just remember that if you want to shoot wider than 40mm you'll need a supplementary viewfinder with the R3. I gradually migrated to using wider lenses than 40/50 and so I now also have the R4A which gives me from 50 down to 21 (but has frames for 35 instead of 40. No biggie - you can guesstimate). With the R4 if you want to shoot longer than 50 you need a supplementary viewfinder - but I find I hardly ever use my 75 so it's not a problem. The R3 viewfinder is 1:1. The R4 viewfinder is (I think) 0.52x.
Juan Valdenebro
Truth is beauty
Dear Leigh,
You say: “I'm not quite sure what experience base with Bessas has prompted either of these comments. First, to "over-ride" AE you simply move the the speed dial off "A". Thereafter you either go fully manual (i.e. estimating the exposures) or you use the meter facility in the viewfinder and adjust the aperture or shutter speed according to taste.”
I was not talking about buttons or dials, but about going mentally, and then physically, lots of times, from the concept of AE to the concept of judging over a meter reading to vary it... I meant why trusting the exposure given by a blind average sensor in AE when that's just like always shooting at 0 with manual metering? And that is, having an imprecise exposure most of the times, not just a few of them... If you use negative you don't see it directly, but if you use slide film, in one roll shot under several lighting situations, few shots will be well exposed...
And you say: “Second, most Bessa users find the AE gives very good exposure control and with the under/over exposure settings on the shutter dial giving a full two stops in either direction it's the simplest thing to note any excess of light or dark in the scene and move the dial.”
If AE was really great, most pro cameras would have just that, and skip manual options... And handheld meters would have disappeared 40 years ago with the birth of AE... But reality is totally different, and shows how much a serious photographer can really trust AE... If you want to see it, go make a portrait of a subject in a white wall: you'll get a 1-2 stops underexposure... Or in a dark scene you'll get a gross overexposure... Or with backlighting situations, worse... So, what you talk about: knowing the light and setting compensation on camera... It can be used for doing a lot of shots in the same situation and place, yes, but that's not AE really: that's manual, because you see a reading and then, manually set another exposure change... And the same if you point here and there changing compensation several times: you're not having a really comfortable AE device: you're losing time, because you start thinking you won't need to worry about exposure, but that's a lie... You have no more than two options with AE: the first, is using it, trusting it, and missing lots of shots, and the other one, is taking decisions depending on the scene, and that's manual metering, and not AE...
Cheers,
Juan
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