Starting into film developing...help!

[PatrickT]

So here I am...frustrated by the lack of quality of the drugstore processing (I've never seen so much dust in my life!) and yearning to shoot some "real" black and white film now that my XP2 stockpile has run out, I find myself wanting to try my hand at processing my own black and white film.

I know there have probably been multiple threads on this topic, and I apologize for asking again, but I need help. I took a black and white photo class back in high school, so I'm familiar with the process (although it will certainly take some refreshing).

Here's my question....I'm interested in developing my own 35mm, 120, 220 and 4x5 film. I have no idea where to even start as far as tanks. I'd love to be able to either develop a couple/few rolls of 35mm at once, a couple/few rolls of 120/220 at once, or a few sheets of 4x5 at once.

Is there one tank that will do it all or should I get separate tanks for the separate film formats? Which are the best, while still being cost effective?

I'm using this page as a guide: http://chromogenic.net/develop Anything else I should know?

Thanks in advance,
Patrick

 

[PatrickT]

I meant to add...4x5 is much less of a priority than 35mm and 120/220. But still...I'd like to be able to do it...

 

[benlees]

I use a Paterson Universal tank for everything. Holds 2 35mm reels or 1 120. You can get different sizes. I do two sheets of 4X5 in it as well. Google 'tortilla method' for developing the 4x5. I also have a couple of stainless tanks for 120.

 

[Pirate]

I think one of the biggest things is which developer you want to use. There are a lot out there but this seems to define some people. You can't just jump around here and expect great photos with every developer, you have to learn one developer and get to know it.

So, once you decide which brand or type you are loyal to, or want to try, the rest of the stuff is simple.

Do you have any preference on brands? I personally like Rollei, so I fall a little farther from the tree than most people. Kodak and Rodinal (Agfa?) seem to be some of the biggest names.

Pick a developer brand and we'll go from there. -this is the biggest interchangeable part of the developing equation. Everything else just about stays the same no matter what brand you pick.

 

[mrb]

I develop my own 35 and 120 in a stainless steel tank that holds two 35mm reels or a single 120 reel. It works pretty well.

 

[Trooper]

I prefer a Kalt stainless can, much like the one pictured in the site you referenced. I use a tank that will hold four 35mm reels or two 120 reels. I don't know the brand, but I like stainless steel reels simply because that is what I'm used to. My equipment was my father's, and he purchased it in the 1960's...still looks new today. My entire film developing suite is a tank, two 120 reels, four jugs, a funnel, and a thermometer and kitchen timer.


I've never developed 4x5, but that will require different tanks unless you want to do it in a tray. I've got a 6x7cm backs for my 4x5 camera so I only have to develop 120 rolls.

What format of cameras do you currently own? I sense you don't have a 4x5 yet...

 

[PatrickT]

Thanks for the quick replies!

Based on the little I've read, I'm thinking about trying Simon's method of using Ilfotec LC29 with Tri-X. Then again, I have no idea what I'm talking about 🙂

Trooper... I've got 35mm, medium format, and 4x5 🙂 Just haven't used the 4x5 much yet!

 

[Pirate]

some of the essentials I would recommend:

3 of these:
http://freestylephoto.biz/5141-Arista-Air-Evac-Bottle-1-Liter?cat_id=1603

3 of these:
http://freestylephoto.biz/5142-Arista-Air-Evac-Bottle-2-Liter?cat_id=1603

1 of these:
http://freestylephoto.biz/322730-Arista-Changing-Bag-27-in.-x-30-in.?cat_id=1603

at least 1 of these, but I find 3 helpful:
http://freestylephoto.biz/173100-Arista-Graduated-Cylinder-1000ml?cat_id=1603

I don't like the reels that come in this tank, there are better out there, but this is a tank that will not leak (not easily) and I use one myself, so I'll recommend this for a first tank:
http://freestylephoto.biz/551520-Jo...Reel-Tank-Adjustable-35mm-120-220?cat_id=1603

2 of these (1 set per roll of film for drying):
http://freestylephoto.biz/635111-Arista-Plastic-Film-Clip-Set-of-2?cat_id=1603

Other stuff: bottle cap opener (hook type works best), small pair of mustache scissors, roll of masking tape (ya never know).

That's most of the hardware for 135 and 120/220 to get you going. That's what you "need". Anything else is what you "want".

 

[Pirate]

Other considerations: What kind of place do you live in? How are you going to dispose of the chemicals? Most of these are not dump-it-down-the-sink chemicals.

If you have a septic tank system at your home, you will certainly not be dumping anything down the drain. You should find Houshold Hazmat dumping facilities near you or call local developing shops and ask how or where they dump their used chemicals. I keep my used stuff in 5-gallon gas cans and dump it at the local hazmat place in town. There's also eco-friendly chemicals you can use, which helps for the little bit that does go down the drain when you rinse out tanks and parts.

 

[PatrickT]

Thanks so much for the info, I'll keep it in mind. At the link I sent, it seems as if that person is dumping everything down the drain...I take it this is not okay?

Also, with the tanks, does it make sense to get one of the taller ones so that I can do more reels at one time? Assuming I have 5 rolls of 35mm waiting to be processed, I'd hate to have to do them one after the other...seems like it would take forever.

Also...what are the 1 and 2 L air evac bottles for? Can't I just leave the chemicals in their respective containers and mix when needed?

 

[Pirate]

The 1 and 2 liter bottles are for mixing and keeping chemicals. Yes, you can mix the developer as needed and not keep it in the air evac bottles. I do this for my developer, but I keep stop-bath mixed and ready (and that's a whole 'nother discussion right there), and Fixer mixed and ready (you can keep and reuse the fixer- so this makes sense to keep mixed in a bottle).

For the tanks, you don't want to do too many rolls at once. Maybe You do. I don't. Two rolls at one time is enough for me. I just developed a roll of 120 between my posts here. It really doesn't take that long, so I'll do two rolls, then take a little break, then do another two rolls. That's just me. Keep in mind that you'll need a set of 2 clips for every roll. One clip hangs the film, and the other clip is weighted and holds the bottom of the film down so it doesn't curl as it dries. Buy as many sets of clips as you think you're going to develop at a time. Buy which ever tank will suit your purposes. I have 4 tanks. A lot of the guys here have that many or more. You adapt and find what suits you as you go. The one I linked to will develop 2 rolls of 135 at a time, or 1 roll of 120 or 220 at a time. It's a good starter tank.

For the chemical disposal, it depends where you are and the type of sewer system in place where you live. No, it's generally not a good idea to just flush the chemicals. Some people do and there's no problem with it. I live on a septic system so it's best if I don't because I don't want the chemicals getting into my drinking water supply which is a Well system. So the disposal is all up to you, I'm just throwing out the ideas as I've learned them.

 

[RichL]

Pollution.

If it is law and plumbing you are worried about then 10 oz. water to 1 of solution will put you in the safe zone for plumbing and (in any community I've been in.) EPA requirements. If, like many of us it is pollution you are worried about then a couple plastic jugs and the local HazMat disposal station is the only way to go.

 

[Pirate]

Also, if you know any friends that work in an auto garage, they may be able to help you with disposal.

 

[degruyl]

Kalt Stainless tank, two 35mm Hewes reels, and one 120 Hewes reel (totally worth the price). Also sundries mentioned by Pirate above.

For 4x5, I heartily recommend using the HP Combiplan tank if you want to do daylight developing (rather than darkroom). It holds 6 sheets and can be inverted. The other option that I use is BZTS tubes, but I use those when I want different developing for individual sheets of film.

Unless you are planning on a whole lot of developing, pick a developer that is a concentrated liquid (Rodinal, HC-110, Sprint, Various Ilford Developers) that you can mix up exactly how much you need. Fix should be reused for environmental reasons. I don't use acid stop, but instead a filtered water rinse.

 

[ibcrewin]

Aim Small, Miss Small..

It's going to be really easy to get way ahead of yourself. Walk before you run. I can't think of anymore cliches, but they hold some water..

Pick one:
35mm, 120, 4x5. (Go with the patterson universal tank so you can "grow" into the 4x5)

Pick one developer. D76 is a good place to start. Again you can "grow" into trying different dilutions, pushing, pulling etc with it.

Pick one film. You're going to get different results with different films in different developers. So it's good to have a baseline to work with.

After that, you can search the forum for HOW to do it. Welcome to the fold.

 

[graywolf]

Wow, some folks do spend money in large quantities.

I use an AP developing tank from Freestyle $20 for 120 & 35mm.

A Combi Plan tank that I bought used some years back.

I also have an old bakelite Yankee Agitank which works fine if you use gentle end to end agitation.

Three 4 cup measuring cups from the kitchen department at walmart.

A 100ml graduate, and a 10ml syringe to measure the chemicals in to the water in the above measuring cups.

A digital thermometer, also from the kitchen department (just don't mix the stuff used for developing up with the stuff used for food.

A small dish washing tub (also from...) as a drip pan.

I have gone to Rodinal (called RO9 one step now, I think) 1+100 stand developed for an hour, water stop bath, and 1+9 Odorless fixer (Freestyles brand) 2 minutes. The advantage to me is the one hour stand development is super non-critical about temperatures and timing. Final rinse being 5, 10, and 20 minute wash baths. All steps being: fill, invert slowly 3 times, let set until time is up, and dump. If you have an alarm set you can go off and do some thing else inbetween.

How non-critical is that development? Well last night I forgot to set the alarm and it wound up setting in the Rodinal for an hour and a half rather than an hour, perfect development to the edge numbers & any problem with the images was caused by poor exposure (only one frame actually).

I have come to believe that the problems most folks have with film processing comes from over vigorous agitation, all that is required is that the solution moves over the film. The more dilute and long time your developer is the less agitation you need.

So, anyway, the above is cheap to use, and hassle free. The only really expensive thing is that Combi Plan tank; I would not buy one at todays prices, but use the Yankee that everyone says you can not get even development in, only I have never had a problem with gentle end to end rocking of the tank.

 

[Ljós]

Patrick,

on the question of how-high-the-tank/how many rolls in one go,
I am with Pirate: two at once is a good solution, and a standard, I'd wager to say.

Unless you are shooting hefty volumes of film on a regular basis, you should be fine with a 500 ml (485 with a Jobo 1520, for example) tank. This will develop two rolls of 35mm film at a time, or two rolls of 120.


Whatever you do, if you have not already bought a changing bag: go for the big(ger)-sized ones, not the smallest cheapest ones you can find. You will congratulate yourself later on.

It will make life easier as a beginner, loading the reels. In summer, when the humidity inside the bag rises quickly and makes the film "stickier", you will be glad for the extra volume. And finally, for 4by5, certainly a large changing bag makes sense. So rather pay an extra 30 dollars or so, it will hurt only once! 🙂

 

[Pirate]

On the note of a Changing Bag, I would also like to recommend the ones sold at B&H Photo Video. They have the normal bags, but they also have small Tents. I hate my changing bag but havn't ponied up the money for a Tent yet. They're about $80-ish and after using a bag for a while now, I'd say anything is bigger is better- and easier. So, if you have the funds, and room, check out the Changing Bags (tents) at B&H so you can see what else is out there.

 

[Requin]

For 4x5" development trays in 5x7" size will do - you need three and a pair of latex gloves, if you don't like to touch the fluids and a clock/timer and of course a totally dark room. These trays a way cheaper than any tank for sheet film and the results may be better. Hope that helps - if not, keep on asking.

 

[ibcrewin]

I'm surprised the FILM forum doesn't have a sticky about how to develop it yourself! Someone's got to get on that..

I found this link from the Film Photography Podcast group on Flickr.

http://dommephoto.wordpress.com/2011/02/02/home-black-and-white-developing-101/