Starting to develope B&W help and advice...

[jfserejo]

Here are 3 samples of my 2nd developed b&w film. In most of the shots I gave a 1+ bracketing compensation, that still not enough in really dark areas. Probably the mid grey was taken in the wrong part of the composition...

But I'm quit happy the way the highlights render in this HC-110 dil. H for 12 min. (The Film was FP4+ at 125)

Now comes the difficult part 🙂 – enhance the dark areas detail and light and maintain the highlights.

100% Crop

Critiques are welcome. Thanks all,
Joao

 

[John Bragg]

Hi, Joao.

WOW ! nice pics. I think you really are on the right track now, and only your second film too !!! More shadow detail is easy to achieve. Rate film at Ei 80. Highlights should hold with the latitude of the film. If they look a little harsh, then dev for 10 mins next time.. Well done !!

Regards, John.

 

[jfserejo]

Hi John! Thank so much for your comment. I am glad with the results to! Specially the lighter tones. I never try shooting at speeds different than the box speed! But without trying I will not learn 🙂. I think will be a good exercise to go back to the same place and repeat the shots with iso 80 as you suggested and dev. with the same time (12 min. at 22º - 24º C)

I got the feeling (at this point it couldn't be more that that) that less agitation bring better results... But is just a gut feeling!

Those where made in aperture priority with compensation at +1 and +1,1/2 but I think it will be better to shoot full manual and compensate with aperture or speed only. Well 36 exp. is plenty to test this interior.

The days here are so bright that the 400 film will be in the refrigerator for some time 😛

Best regards,
Joao

 

[charjohncarter]

I agree with JohnBragg's last post.

Carter

 

[jfserejo]

3rd roll - 1st time TriX

3rd roll - 1st time TriX

Yesterday I finish a roll of Tri-X 400 (new) that I have in one SLR and, after developing FP4+ on HC-110 with encouraging results, I knew that this last shots where better exposed and could test if, with a little short time and less agitation in the end, I manage to get good dark areas, with detail and tonal range without blowing the light areas. The day was beautiful (and HOT) so these should be an good attempt to catch high range tonalities.

I did 8.30min. at 24º C (75.2 F) with 30s agitation in the beginning and 4 to 1 inversion every minute, reducing as time reaches the end.

Here are some samples and 100% crop. Sugestions and repairs are welcome.

100% crop

I'm really happy with the light results and the grain seams nice, but I have to see some TriX400 samples side by side with this to compare...

Now it's time to continue with FP4+ on HC-110 until I feel comfortable with it and manage to duplicate results and reduce the unexpected ones!

Scanned with EpsonScan and used USM LOW only.

Best regards all,
Joao

 

[John Bragg]

Hi, Joao.

You have done really well with the tonal range in these photos. The shadow details are good with no signs of blown highlights. It proves that the rules for getting good negatives hold true, no matter if you plan to print or scan them. Information lost in the development of a negative can never be regained later, but you have done an admirable job in very contrasty light, and all the tones are there. Congratulations.....!!!

Regards, John.

 

[jfserejo]

some more Tri-X & FP4+

some more Tri-X & FP4+

Hi John, thanks so much for you support. 🙂

This past week I made a very pleasant ride by some beaches and had the opportunity to try the same approach with different subjects, and the sea is really different... With both Tri-X and FP4+ at box speeds did the same 1 to 1 and a 1/2 stop over the meter values with development times reduced by 25% trying to compensate the highlights. Done 30 sec. initial agitation and two inversions every minute. I'm not sure but the grain seams to be smaller now!

Tri-X:

100% Crop:

FP4+:

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In terms of tonality and contrast I like the images I post previous better and don't know if the overexposure near sea works but... this ones are really close to the atmosphere that they were taken! I'm really confuse now and I think only a analog print will help here!

Best regards all,
Joao