E.M
Well-known
My choice would be a Nikon fm2n or a Nikon F , F2 . You can use the lenses on a digital Nikon , if you want to later on . Nikkor 50 1.4 ais or/and 35 1.4 or 35 2 ais
Steve Bellayr
Veteran
Nikon F3hp w/50mm f1.4 lens (AiS).
xyz3450
-
As some have noted (Gerry) an Olympus OM2n with a Zuiko prime lens. The 50mm 1.8 is cheap and well regarded.
sojournerphoto
Veteran
It's worth thinking about when you will use it and what carrying it means. I rarely photograph during working days - time and focus is in short enough supply - but when I do I prefer a small light camera. Other times, I might take a Rolleicord for a walk, or even set up a view camera for a particular picture.
Increasingly I fins I prefer small light cameras, and film rfs are about perfect. You can of course buy an slr of similar size.
The key difference between slr and rf to my mind is the different way you see the world. The rf gives you a window to look through, the slr presents an image already. Sometimes this has a profound effect. The first camera I used, many many years ago was a fixed lens rf. When I picked up a Zorki 4k a few years ago, it changed my view of things and took my photography in a completely new direction. Obviously, some people hate them and they have become a niche for good reason, but there may be some value in using one for a while at least.
Just a thought - whatever you do, enjoy it
Increasingly I fins I prefer small light cameras, and film rfs are about perfect. You can of course buy an slr of similar size.
The key difference between slr and rf to my mind is the different way you see the world. The rf gives you a window to look through, the slr presents an image already. Sometimes this has a profound effect. The first camera I used, many many years ago was a fixed lens rf. When I picked up a Zorki 4k a few years ago, it changed my view of things and took my photography in a completely new direction. Obviously, some people hate them and they have become a niche for good reason, but there may be some value in using one for a while at least.
Just a thought - whatever you do, enjoy it
mani
Well-known
I also see this kind of comment again and again on RFF and other online forums. I guess many people feel this way... But everyone is different.
I'm the worrying type, and digital always reinforced that trait (and still does). I can't feel relaxed that I got the shot, but rather I always feel the need to double-check. And then maybe take another shot to make sure. And possibly two or three more.
The trouble is, I haven't *really concentrated* when taking any of these photographs - so my timing is probably off a bit, or the composition isn't really optimal. So none of these ten shots of the same subject really 'nailed it' anyway.
Since I switched to film, all of that anxiety disappeared. I concentrate more. I learn more, because the lessons are imprinted more firmly in my mind, when each shot counts. And my photography has *vastly* improved (at least in my own estimation).
I know this will just open me up to the usual criticism about lacking self-discipline or whatever, but the truth is switching to film opened a whole new world of photography *for me*. And maybe the same will happen to the OP (who incidentally didn't ask for lectures, but for camera suggestions).
My candidate would be an OM1 with a standard 50mm f1,8. Awesome, simple, reliable camera.
Austerby
Well-known
Many sensible suggestions made so here's one rather left-field for you:
try a pinhole camera - ideally a Harman Titan 5x4 from Ilford but a 120 roll film one from Ondu or Vermeer would also be good.
Well within budget and will give you results which are utterly different from your digital photos.
try a pinhole camera - ideally a Harman Titan 5x4 from Ilford but a 120 roll film one from Ondu or Vermeer would also be good.
Well within budget and will give you results which are utterly different from your digital photos.
konicaman
konicaman
Film is a good choice - for the reasons, you mentioned. No need to spend a lot of money from day one. As mentioned, Olympus, Pentax, Nikon (or Konica - I had to say that - see my nick) for manual or a Canon EOS with kit zoom or a 50mm for AF. Use the money to buy film instead.
Ohh...and welcome to this nice and friendly forum - I am sure, you are going to like it here
Ohh...and welcome to this nice and friendly forum - I am sure, you are going to like it here
CK Dexter Haven
Well-known
$1000! Sweet.
Nikon FE2 with 50/1.8 Series E, if you go with manual focus. A small, sharp, 50mm lens with great bokeh.
Nikon F100 with 50/1.8G if you want AF.
Other options: Contax Aria with 50/1.4 Planar
Canon EOS 3 with 50/1.4 EF
THEN, add either another lens, or get a cheap medium format camera. Mamiya 645 or a Yashica Mat 124?
You can then get some film processing stuff.
Nikon FE2 with 50/1.8 Series E, if you go with manual focus. A small, sharp, 50mm lens with great bokeh.
Nikon F100 with 50/1.8G if you want AF.
Other options: Contax Aria with 50/1.4 Planar
Canon EOS 3 with 50/1.4 EF
THEN, add either another lens, or get a cheap medium format camera. Mamiya 645 or a Yashica Mat 124?
You can then get some film processing stuff.
johannielscom
Snorting silver salts
Medium format is the way to go. The images are cinematic when printed, a whole different feel than smaller formats!
USD 1000 can get you a good Rolleiflex for sure.
USD 1000 can get you a good Rolleiflex for sure.
farlymac
PF McFarland
Norway, I'm not sure what kind of digital camera you have, but here is an alternative process.
Turn off all the automatic features if you can (shutter, aperture, focus) and shoot it in complete manual mode. You can bracket your shots (one under exposed, one right on, and one overexposed) to see just how your metering system handles the lighting. That's a first step in using it like a film camera.
The second step is to get a small memory card, to limit your photo taking, the smaller the better. You'd likely have to buy these used, since everything sold new now days is in the 16GB or larger range. Knowing you have a limited amount of image storage will hopefully cut down on the number of images you take, and force you into thinking more about what you are shooting.
A third step would be to set your camera to monochrome if it has that setting. Experiment with the different versions it may have, especially if they mimic certain old film emulsions (my favorite was Kodak Plus-X).
Then use that budget to get out and shoot photos! There is nothing like making a journey to far flung spots for the sole purpose of documenting what you find there. Just thinking about how you will interpret the scenery may get you to concentrate on the best way to photograph it, without resorting to machine-gun tactics.
But if you are really resolved to get a film camera, I'd go with the simplest SLR you can get locally, with a standard lens. Make sure to get a hood for the lens, and some filters (Skylight for color, UV, Yellow, Orange, Green, and Red for B&W, and a Polarizer for both) so you can learn about contrast control, and haze and reflection reduction. And get a decent bag to carry it all, along with several rolls of film.
Have fun!
PF
Turn off all the automatic features if you can (shutter, aperture, focus) and shoot it in complete manual mode. You can bracket your shots (one under exposed, one right on, and one overexposed) to see just how your metering system handles the lighting. That's a first step in using it like a film camera.
The second step is to get a small memory card, to limit your photo taking, the smaller the better. You'd likely have to buy these used, since everything sold new now days is in the 16GB or larger range. Knowing you have a limited amount of image storage will hopefully cut down on the number of images you take, and force you into thinking more about what you are shooting.
A third step would be to set your camera to monochrome if it has that setting. Experiment with the different versions it may have, especially if they mimic certain old film emulsions (my favorite was Kodak Plus-X).
Then use that budget to get out and shoot photos! There is nothing like making a journey to far flung spots for the sole purpose of documenting what you find there. Just thinking about how you will interpret the scenery may get you to concentrate on the best way to photograph it, without resorting to machine-gun tactics.
But if you are really resolved to get a film camera, I'd go with the simplest SLR you can get locally, with a standard lens. Make sure to get a hood for the lens, and some filters (Skylight for color, UV, Yellow, Orange, Green, and Red for B&W, and a Polarizer for both) so you can learn about contrast control, and haze and reflection reduction. And get a decent bag to carry it all, along with several rolls of film.
Have fun!
PF
semilog
curmudgeonly optimist
Start cheap — all of these are primo hardware and not expensive. My personal faves are in boldface.
Pentax ME Super (not ME) or MX or K1000 with 50/1.8 or 50/1.4 SMC.
Or
Minolta SRT 101, 102, or 202 with 50/1.8 or 50/1.4.
Or
Nikon FE, FM, FE2, FM2, FG, or F3, with Series E Nikkor 50/1.8 (best bang-for-buck of all Nikkors — what I'd prefer even if the body was a mint F3T).
Or one of the Olympus cameras mentioned above. Or something the older Canon SLR mount. An AE-1 would be fine.
Or (Really cheap and remarkably good) Ricoh KR-5 Super with 50/1.8 or 50/1.4. Body and lens can be had for $35 in many cases.
These cameras span a wide range of prices (15-$300) but all do essentially the same things and will deliver more or less identical image quality.
Pentax ME Super (not ME) or MX or K1000 with 50/1.8 or 50/1.4 SMC.
Or
Minolta SRT 101, 102, or 202 with 50/1.8 or 50/1.4.
Or
Nikon FE, FM, FE2, FM2, FG, or F3, with Series E Nikkor 50/1.8 (best bang-for-buck of all Nikkors — what I'd prefer even if the body was a mint F3T).
Or one of the Olympus cameras mentioned above. Or something the older Canon SLR mount. An AE-1 would be fine.
Or (Really cheap and remarkably good) Ricoh KR-5 Super with 50/1.8 or 50/1.4. Body and lens can be had for $35 in many cases.
These cameras span a wide range of prices (15-$300) but all do essentially the same things and will deliver more or less identical image quality.
semilog
curmudgeonly optimist
For sure, another option.
Personally, I don't like square format.
Some of the fixed-lens Fuji medium format cameras are absolutely astounding and regularly come up for great prices.
Medium format negatives are also a LOT easier to scan well than 35mm.
ferider
Veteran
Let me start bottom up (similar to Ko.Fe. above)
- How do you want to print ?
- B+W only ok, or color too ?
- 35mm big enough or medium format ?
1) Unless you build a darkroom from the start, due to price for printing, with film, you'll probably end up scanning and printing yourself.
2) Still, you have to figure out how to get your negatives. Easiest in the long term is to develop B+W at home and get color negatives from the shop.
In any case, you need to budget for 1) (US 500 and up) and 2) (US 100 and up).
The camera is the cheapest piece in the flow from taking a photo to getting a print. Many great affordable used film cameras on the market, the good ones were mentioned already above.
My personal favorite film SLR/lens combos are F3 + 50/1.8, OM2 + 50/1.2 and Maxxum 9 + 50/1.4 for 35mm, and the 500EL + 80mm in MF.
Roland.
- How do you want to print ?
- B+W only ok, or color too ?
- 35mm big enough or medium format ?
1) Unless you build a darkroom from the start, due to price for printing, with film, you'll probably end up scanning and printing yourself.
2) Still, you have to figure out how to get your negatives. Easiest in the long term is to develop B+W at home and get color negatives from the shop.
In any case, you need to budget for 1) (US 500 and up) and 2) (US 100 and up).
The camera is the cheapest piece in the flow from taking a photo to getting a print. Many great affordable used film cameras on the market, the good ones were mentioned already above.
My personal favorite film SLR/lens combos are F3 + 50/1.8, OM2 + 50/1.2 and Maxxum 9 + 50/1.4 for 35mm, and the 500EL + 80mm in MF.
Roland.
Dante_Stella
Rex canum cattorumque
I'd skip 35mm and go right to 6x4.5 or larger, where there is a better value proposition. There are some small cameras, like the Super Ikonta A, the Konica Pearl II or III, and the like. And some medium-sized ones like the Fuji GA645. If you are not particularly sensitive to size, the GW690 (6x9) is pretty hard to beat.
Dante
Dante
Dwig
Well-known
Buy a decent printer (~$100-200 USD) and a supply of paper and ink (~$100 USD) and print what you shoot. Then, and only then, consider a new camera.
Shooting film can be good discipline, but it won't auto-magically improve you photography. Also, ordinary lab processing of color prints is rarely satisfying from an artistic POV. My suggestion would be to get a decent mid-line adjustable digital camera to go along with the printer and some decent software (Adobe Photoshop Elements or, my preference, Adobe Lightroom). You could get one of several cameras (e.g. Panasonic G-7 with 14-42 kit zoom, ...), a decent printer with supplies, and Lightroom 6 all for less than $1000USD.
pagpow
Well-known
Norway,
A lot of good advice here. I would emphasize a couple of things.
1) You want film. Start by seeing what is available and thinking about who is going to develop it. With film cameras, you have very low entry cost, and much higher operating costs that will do nothing but rise.
2) Completely agree that the way to learn is to take control of the camera. That means finding a camera with a simple and quick user interface. For what it seems like you are interested in doing, I agree that a metered fully manual, manual focus would be a great start in learning a style and what you want to control inane camera you use.
3) This site is full of Nikon enthusiasts with some (many) Olympus enthusiasts. I would add Canons with the FD mount, not the current EF mount.
4) Stay simple for a while -- one body, and one, possibly two lenses. You can get that set-up in 35mm with Canon FD, or Olympus mount for about $100 (I don't know Nikon classic pricing) in the US, leaving a lot of room for film and/or development/printing.
If the economics of the situation steer you back to digital, look for a camera with an easy/fast way to set shutter speed. aperture, and ISO.
Good luck and enjoy your journey.
Giorgio
A lot of good advice here. I would emphasize a couple of things.
1) You want film. Start by seeing what is available and thinking about who is going to develop it. With film cameras, you have very low entry cost, and much higher operating costs that will do nothing but rise.
2) Completely agree that the way to learn is to take control of the camera. That means finding a camera with a simple and quick user interface. For what it seems like you are interested in doing, I agree that a metered fully manual, manual focus would be a great start in learning a style and what you want to control inane camera you use.
3) This site is full of Nikon enthusiasts with some (many) Olympus enthusiasts. I would add Canons with the FD mount, not the current EF mount.
4) Stay simple for a while -- one body, and one, possibly two lenses. You can get that set-up in 35mm with Canon FD, or Olympus mount for about $100 (I don't know Nikon classic pricing) in the US, leaving a lot of room for film and/or development/printing.
If the economics of the situation steer you back to digital, look for a camera with an easy/fast way to set shutter speed. aperture, and ISO.
Good luck and enjoy your journey.
Giorgio
WJJ3
Well-known
Tlr
Tlr
There is a strong case for the TLR being the best tool to help you learn about photography. Some old masters explained that a photographer visualizes the final print before the exposure is made. The TLR with its ground glass at waist level already lets you look at your composition at a viewing distance somewhat like looking at a print. The square format requires you to think about how your final print will be cropped, so you know what to include on the film. The lack of interchangeable lenses and accessories cuts down on the gear distraction and lets you focus on your image.
Maybe look for a Minolta Autocord or Rolleiflex as a camera that will inspire you to step up your game...
Tlr
There is a strong case for the TLR being the best tool to help you learn about photography. Some old masters explained that a photographer visualizes the final print before the exposure is made. The TLR with its ground glass at waist level already lets you look at your composition at a viewing distance somewhat like looking at a print. The square format requires you to think about how your final print will be cropped, so you know what to include on the film. The lack of interchangeable lenses and accessories cuts down on the gear distraction and lets you focus on your image.
Maybe look for a Minolta Autocord or Rolleiflex as a camera that will inspire you to step up your game...
Hern
Established
Now, should I be "that guy"?
Get your hands on a rangefinder, borrow it, rent it, steal it, buy it, just have a few hours with one. You might just be pleasantly surprised with how an rf feels as opposed to a SLR.
Besides, $1000 would be more than enough for some of the best 35mm cameras out there. It could even get a nice Leica M3 and a Nikkor 50mm f2 HC LTM , which imo is a pretty sweet starter kit.
Get your hands on a rangefinder, borrow it, rent it, steal it, buy it, just have a few hours with one. You might just be pleasantly surprised with how an rf feels as opposed to a SLR.
Besides, $1000 would be more than enough for some of the best 35mm cameras out there. It could even get a nice Leica M3 and a Nikkor 50mm f2 HC LTM , which imo is a pretty sweet starter kit.
GaryLH
Veteran
I second everyone who mentioned medium format... With an even more limited number of shots on 120, it will slow u down more than 35mm.... The big 6x9 negative is just stunning.
A medium format negative is big enough that u can even contact print and get a decent size from 6x45 to 6x9 size.. Just need a darkroom like a closet and space for chemistry plus a light source on a timer.
My recommendations are toward Fuji medium format cameras mostly.
- second Stella's Fuji ga645 (af and modern metering)
- the Texas Leica - the rf 6x9 (manual focus and need separate meter - use your smartphone meter app)
- if u can afford it, Fuji gf670 a modern rf folder that does both 6x6 and 6x7 w/ built in meter. Maybe a used one can be had for slightly above your price limit.
- yashica TLR, cheap and durable. Some model have built in meter.
- for old folders I like the voitlander line like the Bessa II 6x9 or Perkeo II. Need separate light meter. Perkeo is a 6x6 zone focus though but is so small it will fit in the back of a jean pocket.
However if u are set on 35mm, I will echo what there have said, u can't go wrong w/ a basic Nikon specially given the number of lenses that have been available for it thru all the various stage of the lines life.
- Autofocus
-- f100
- manual focus
-- fm2n or fm3
-- f3hp
-- fe2
Prime lenses
- any 50f1.8.. In manual version, stick w/ one designated w/ AIS
- 105f.5 for tele
- don't go wider than 35 when u first start out
But I also echo what others have said, slowing down is just the start of what u need to do..start looking at what u don't like about your shots..start reading books that will help u figure out how to correct the issue. Join a camera club and ask questions, join in on the discussions.
Good luck
Gary
A medium format negative is big enough that u can even contact print and get a decent size from 6x45 to 6x9 size.. Just need a darkroom like a closet and space for chemistry plus a light source on a timer.
My recommendations are toward Fuji medium format cameras mostly.
- second Stella's Fuji ga645 (af and modern metering)
- the Texas Leica - the rf 6x9 (manual focus and need separate meter - use your smartphone meter app)
- if u can afford it, Fuji gf670 a modern rf folder that does both 6x6 and 6x7 w/ built in meter. Maybe a used one can be had for slightly above your price limit.
- yashica TLR, cheap and durable. Some model have built in meter.
- for old folders I like the voitlander line like the Bessa II 6x9 or Perkeo II. Need separate light meter. Perkeo is a 6x6 zone focus though but is so small it will fit in the back of a jean pocket.
However if u are set on 35mm, I will echo what there have said, u can't go wrong w/ a basic Nikon specially given the number of lenses that have been available for it thru all the various stage of the lines life.
- Autofocus
-- f100
- manual focus
-- fm2n or fm3
-- f3hp
-- fe2
Prime lenses
- any 50f1.8.. In manual version, stick w/ one designated w/ AIS
- 105f.5 for tele
- don't go wider than 35 when u first start out
But I also echo what others have said, slowing down is just the start of what u need to do..start looking at what u don't like about your shots..start reading books that will help u figure out how to correct the issue. Join a camera club and ask questions, join in on the discussions.
Good luck
Gary
aizan
Veteran
hmm...for under $1000...
how about a tripod...
or a polaroid sx-70 or whatever...
or a 6x4.5 slr: pentax 645n for automatic, bronica etr-si for manual...
or bronica rf645...
or rolleiflex mx-evs...or bronica ec-tl or sq-ai...
or pentax 67...or mamiya rz67ii...
how about a tripod...
or a polaroid sx-70 or whatever...
or a 6x4.5 slr: pentax 645n for automatic, bronica etr-si for manual...
or bronica rf645...
or rolleiflex mx-evs...or bronica ec-tl or sq-ai...
or pentax 67...or mamiya rz67ii...