retrogaz
Newbie
Hi everyone
I've recently dug out my Epson R-D1 from the back of the cupboard. I had forgotten what a marvel it is!
However, the framelines are 'sticky' in that they only rarely move for parallax correction.
They do move sometimes, albeit not by much, and most times they don't shift at all when focusing close.
Switching between the different sets of framelines is fine. And the 28mm ones seem to move a bit more happily than the 35 and 50.
Just wondering if anyone else had ever experienced this problem, and if there is a relatively easy home-fix? Otherwise I will live with it, and deal with mis-framed photos!
Thanks in advance
Gareth
I've recently dug out my Epson R-D1 from the back of the cupboard. I had forgotten what a marvel it is!
However, the framelines are 'sticky' in that they only rarely move for parallax correction.
They do move sometimes, albeit not by much, and most times they don't shift at all when focusing close.
Switching between the different sets of framelines is fine. And the 28mm ones seem to move a bit more happily than the 35 and 50.
Just wondering if anyone else had ever experienced this problem, and if there is a relatively easy home-fix? Otherwise I will live with it, and deal with mis-framed photos!
Thanks in advance
Gareth
Rob-F
Likes Leicas
Sounds like a matter of lubrication that may be congealed or dried up. I wouldn't try fixing it unless you know what lubricant to use, where, and how much!
lonemantis
Well-known
If it hasn't been used in a long time, the first thing I'd try is to just exercise the mechanism as much as you can. Mount a lens on and continuously focus back and forth throughout the full range. You'll want to do this as much as you can - in the background while you watch TV, for example. This will hopefully redistribute the lubricants and free up mechanics a bit.
If that doesn't work after a week or so, I'd send it for repairs. Luckily, the rangefinder mechanism is the most repairable part of the R-D1, since it's the same as the Bessa R3. Any competent camera tech should be able to do it!
If that doesn't work after a week or so, I'd send it for repairs. Luckily, the rangefinder mechanism is the most repairable part of the R-D1, since it's the same as the Bessa R3. Any competent camera tech should be able to do it!
Agreed with the above comments... I had the same problem with a Fuji GS645S that I bought used. Focusing one direction there is a hard mechanical connection, but going the other way is under spring tension, so it was on the return direction the stickiness occurred. Usually a light tap to the top of the camera freed it up temporarily. Lubrication was the solution, in my case done by Camera Wiz.
Estona
Member
Amazing tips, thanks! You inspire me to make new masterpieces!
vicmortelmans
Well-known
Hi,
I just spent a couple of hours on my recently acquired R-D1 to fix sticky framelines.
Removing the top cover following the instructions and drawings on cameraquest was not easy. It requires some calm (especially when a small part dropped into a slit in the back of the housing, that got stuck, so I had to pry it out). Also the previous owner had been applying excessive amounts of glue to attach the leatherette.
Once the top came off, the matte cover glass providing back light for the framelines appeared to be loose, so I guess this has been blocking the parallax mechanism, which is right behind.
Also based in hints on cameraquest, I've removed the mechanism for the shutter speed dial lock button, and I've released the tension on the stops of the dial, so I can operate it easily with one finger.
Test pictures: https://photos.app.goo.gl/QjYW8RALjB8TfKFF7
Best regards,
Vic
I just spent a couple of hours on my recently acquired R-D1 to fix sticky framelines.
Removing the top cover following the instructions and drawings on cameraquest was not easy. It requires some calm (especially when a small part dropped into a slit in the back of the housing, that got stuck, so I had to pry it out). Also the previous owner had been applying excessive amounts of glue to attach the leatherette.
Once the top came off, the matte cover glass providing back light for the framelines appeared to be loose, so I guess this has been blocking the parallax mechanism, which is right behind.
Also based in hints on cameraquest, I've removed the mechanism for the shutter speed dial lock button, and I've released the tension on the stops of the dial, so I can operate it easily with one finger.
Test pictures: https://photos.app.goo.gl/QjYW8RALjB8TfKFF7
Best regards,
Vic
retrogaz
Newbie
A very belated thanks to everyone for replying. I’m going to spend some time trying to get the frame lines moving and perhaps see if I can find someone here in the UK who could service the rangefinder mechanism. Any recommendations gratefully received!