Stiff shutter ring Lynx 14e?

[Morfeus]

Hi,

I just received a like new looking Lynx 14e that I have bought off ebay from a well known seller.

However, whilst looking really nice externally, I found that the shutter ring turns quite stiff and sometimes makes a very slight scratching noise when turning it towards the B position.

The aperture ring has no click stops?

Can this be normal? Never had a Lynx before and wanted to ask before I contact the seller.

Also the light seals are almost gone. That is not a big issue I think. Any hints where I can get new ones?

 

[tomisimpern]

Hi there. For the light seals, look for Interslice on Ebay - Jon Goodman does a brilliant job with those, and they always work perfectly.
For the shutter ring - does it only scratch when turning to B ? I have a Lynx 14 in pieces on my desk (unfinished project) - I will look at that part and see what I think.
regards,
Tony

 

[Morfeus]

Thanks Tony.

The noise is barely hearable. I just checked again and sometimes there is that noise and sometimes it is quite. And no, I just found that if the noise appears it can be at any position of the ring.

I had already contacted Jon about an hour ago because he has no seals listed for the Lynx.

Heinz

 

[Morfeus]

Got an email from Jon this morning. He has a seal kit for the 14 non "E". Does anyone know if the body of the 14e is the same as the non "e" and if that kit will fit? Jon does not know.

 

[mankamen]

Yes, the aperture ring has no click stop. Nothing wrong there.I'll double check on the shutter speed ring when I arrive at home..🙂

 

[farlymac]

Should be the same body as only changes to the metering system made it an'E'.

PF

 

[Morfeus]

Thank you so much for your help.

I have ordered a light seal kit from Jon. I also opened the lens to investigate the stiffness problem and to clean the exposure meter rings. The lens seems to have been opened before and is completely dry. I suppose there has to be some light camera grease between the moving parts. Am I correct?

 

[btgc]

I suppose there has to be some light camera grease between the moving parts. Am I correct?

I don't know how it should be. I never ever lube shutter's gears, except tiniest drop of fine watch oil on the shaft of detail at the end of slow speeds escapement, clicking against star wheel.

Yet I've applied very small amount of lithium grease on outer surface of speed governor metal plate - surface, coming into contact with plate on part sitting over it. Idea is to lower friction but don't allow migration of lube. Thus, I apply very very small amounts. Now speed ring rotates smoother. Of cource, there also matters how strong one tightens wavy nut ring - too strong, and speeds are hard to change; too weak - and governor plate slips off shutter internals and hangs.

 

[Morfeus]

Yet I've applied very small amount of lithium grease on outer surface of speed governor metal plate - surface, coming into contact with plate on part sitting over it. Idea is to lower friction but don't allow migration of lube. Thus, I apply very very small amounts. Now speed ring rotates smoother. Of cource, there also matters how strong one tightens wavy nut ring - too strong, and speeds are hard to change; too weak - and governor plate slips off shutter internals and hangs.

thank you btgc, this was the idea that I had. Just lower friction a bit. I'll give it try.

 

[btgc]

thank you btgc, this was the idea that I had. Just lower friction a bit. I'll give it try.

Hope this works for you. Will repeat - I applied just tvery thin film instead of layer of grease. Also put very small amount of same grease on paper tissue and spread it on brass surface of detail pressing against speed governor. Just to keep brass slightly shining, not greased. It's enough to reduce friction.

 

[stevebrot]

Got an email from Jon this morning. He has a seal kit for the 14 non "E". Does anyone know if the body of the 14e is the same as the non "e" and if that kit will fit? Jon does not know.

All of the Lynx bodies (1000 through 14E) share a common chassis with some variation. The seal kit for one should fit any of the others. There should be four seals for your camera:

• Top groove for the body (two sections)
• Bottom groove for the body
• Hinge area on body (fabric material)
• Latch groove on door (fabric material)

The two fabric seals generally do not require replacement leaving the long door seals as the only concern. One thing you should be aware of is the existence of a set of seals where the lens/shutter assembly attaches to the body. These degrade with time resulting in a characteristic "looseness" of the lens on the body and potential for light leak. If you ever have the lens/shutter off the body, replacement of that seal should probably be consideration.

Steve

 

[Morfeus]

OK, solved some of the issues.

- The seals arrived very fast and are installed.
- The stiff shutter ring works smooth now, there is a srew-ring inside the lens and depending on how hard you tighten that ring, the stiffer the shutter ring moves. Loosened that ring a bit.

Now, the next issue appeared. The exposure meter is way off towards overexposure. I know that there is another ring inside the lens that adjusts the meter. But that is not sufficient, the meter is just too much off. I use hearing aid batteries and the measure 2.7V together - exactly the correct value.

Any hints on that problem?

Thanks,
Heinz