Strange change in exposure on half of negative

I only have one spiral but think you might be right about this. Strange, though, that the line is so straight and exact (no 'half frames' or anything)

As I use stock concentration I'm going with 400ml from now on but will order a second spiral, too...

ped

next time, try to check if your reel is still on the bottom when you open the box.
also, try not to agitate too violently. If you reach inversion through a nice rotational movement, the friction should take care of keeping the reel in place.

Personally, I think that's the problem.
(don't ask me how I know that :bang:;))
 
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Thanks for the advice. Hopefully my second reel will be here before I finish another roll for film so that should rule out that variable, at least!
 
Hi Ped,

Hope these help:-

1. Make certain that all the tank components are clean and absolutely dry. Clean the reel with an old soft bristle toothbrush after each use (when it has dried that is).

2. Make certain the the film is loading onto the reel in the tracks and not off the track and touching onto another peice of film (the toothbrush 'trick' above should see to this.

3. I always make certain that the reel is at the bottom of the tube and mine does not move from there (it is quite tight on my Paterson)

4. Though 290mls is the prescription, I always do 300/320mls (it's cheap and its security)

Good Luck

Alistair
 
Eric - was this photo made immediately after you changed lenses?

Hmm... no. I had the same 35mm lens on for the whole roll. Don't think I took it off for any reason when I was inside. And the lighting was only florescent with whatever sunlight coming through the windows. Couldn't have been as strong as the example you show later of changing lenses in sunlight.
 
Souped two rolls today in 400ml and they look fine, no bands. Maybe I have solved the problem. Guess time will tell...
 
I took the M4 out for a stroll yesterday, in beautiful bright winter sunlight (ie low-angle direct sun).. Guess what? Three shots on a roll of 20 show this same light leak. I was carrying the camera slung diagonally, on my right hip. And for at least some of the time the sun was on my right. I used the one lens the whole roll.

Time for another CLA I guess, and make sure I get the shutter channel bottom seal replaced this time.

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Hi Chris

Looks strikingly similar. Looks like I might be best sending for a CLA at some point then just to be on the safe side. Did a studio job today with the M4P and haven't developed the negs yet so fingers crossed (used my R-D1 body too for backup just in case!

Cheers
ped
 
Hi folks

Just had the call from the company who serviced my camera (RG Lewis, London)

They said it was the shutter bearing, basically the shutter was bouncing back after closing or something - I'll get more details when I call up to pay.

Looking forward to having it back!

Thanks for all the help and ideas

ped
 
Hi folks

Just had the call from the company who serviced my camera (RG Lewis, London)

They said it was the shutter bearing, basically the shutter was bouncing back after closing or something - I'll get more details when I call up to pay.

Looking forward to having it back!

Thanks for all the help and ideas

ped

Hi ped

not trying to argue, but as I said before, the shutter is moving horizontally.
A bouncing shutter is adding extra exposure at the end of the curtain trip, yielding a brighter image on the short side of the frame.

Your problem is under-developement or under-exposure (hard to understand how can that happen with such a shutter) over the long side of the frame.

To my knowledge, the only thing that could cause this is the development roll not fully covered by the chemicals.
 
They have replaced all the light seals too so lets hope it's OK whatever it was. I'll call them again later as I need to pay them anyway and mention the point you rightly make, it slipped my mind.

ped
 
OK just called again and paid (£190 for full strip down and rebuild)

The guy agreed with the horizontal shutter vs dark like at top question but assures me the work is gauranteed for 6 months and if I have a problem I can send it back, however he also assures me that the tech can do it with his eyes closed and that he has replaced all the seals and debris and that there was nothing out of the ordinary to report and that it 'works perfectly'. The speeds were spot on, too, which is nice to know.

I'll have it tomorrow so will run a roll through it. Really excited to have it back, I've loved re-visiting my R-D1 but I have really missed film.

Cheers
ped
 
Lines are still there. If I'm honest the camera feels and looks exactly the same as when I sent it away. Have emailed them and phoned, not expecting an email back to be honest so I'll call tomorrow. £200 down the drain, by the looks of it, and I was planning on taking the camera abroad on Tuesday. Great.
 
Man, that's disappointing, frustrating, and maddening! I hope the firm comes to the party and agrees to take the camera back and fix it properly.
 
They have just offered to take it back for 'another look' so I'll keep you posted

Cheers
ped
 
I've had a similiar issue with my M4, on some pictures taken with bright sun from the side just as Chris described. Not only from the right though...

I'm planning on a CLA for it soon.
 
I googled RFF for "light leak" and this thread came as perfect match for my M4-2 problem.

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Attached image shows it most aggressive. It seems to show up if bright sun is in the front of the camera, but not all the time.

So, what was final conclusion? Curtains? It is not in the final invoice I have after recent CLA, but I seems remember to see recommendation for curtain change in the work sheet...
 

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Your mention of bright sun strikes a note that had been occurring to me: could it be that the lighter areas are seeing a reflection of stray sunlight from the floor of the interior between the lens and the shutter? How well is that area baffled/flocked? The darker band might be the part that's properly exposed, protected from the reflection by structure below the negative frame in the camera (this band is at the top of the image but the bottom of the film negative in the camera)
 
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