Strange squiggles on some frames

[Jhausler]

Does anyone have any idea what these lines are?

This is from a roll of Tri-X developed with Ilfotec DD-X and "scanned" using a Sony A7.

Now, only a few shots from the same roll have these lines. I'm guessing maybe something with the Sony got confused? This is with sharpening turned off...

Here's another 1:1 shot from the same roll, scanned the same way without these lines.

 

[Shac]

If it had been on all shots on the same roll I'd have said reticulation (temperature change between developer and stop bath during development) - but never see it on only part of a roll. Looking again I'm not even sure it's the same as reticulation (I had that years ago)

Really doubt it was the A7. Have you checked the images with a magnifier? That should tell you something.

 

[Jhausler]

Hmm. Never heard of reticulation. I use tap water for a stop since I fix with TF-5, so I suppose temp difference is extremely likely.

By check images, you mean the negatives? I haven't. A few shots on the roll were pretty dense.. Maybe that's the cause?

 

[Ronald M]

Hair in his eye.

 

[AZPhotog]

What Shac said; it is definitely reticulation on the film caused by processing temperatures not being close enough. I went through this myself back in the mid 1960's with temperatures being off when developing. (I only made that mistake once as it corrupted some very important-to-me photos.)

 

[Shac]

Hmm. Never heard of reticulation. I use tap water for a stop since I fix with TF-5, so I suppose temp difference is extremely likely.

By check images, you mean the negatives? I haven't. A few shots on the roll were pretty dense.. Maybe that's the cause?

Yes - look at the negatives with a hand magnifier (e.g. a 50 mm lens works - but something with more magnification preferably) and see if you can detect the "reticulation" on the first image you showed. If yes then it's obviously happening when you copy it - if not then ???

 

[Jhausler]

Makes sense.. but would it only reticulate on a few frames out of an entire roll? i've only been doing this for about 3 years now, but never had this happen before. I typically only take temp on the developer. Stop straight from the tap and room temp (18c or so) for Fix.

 

[Shac]

Makes sense.. but would it only reticulate on a few frames out of an entire roll? i've only been doing this for about 3 years now, but never had this happen before. I typically only take temp on the developer. Stop straight from the tap and room temp (18c or so) for Fix.

I would be surprised it was only on a few frames as I said before. But if you only take the developer temp then it might be worth taking the rest of the chemicals in future.

I had it with some of my rolls many years ago, and most often with XP2 which seemed especially sensitive.

Anyway check the film with the magnifier - that's the first step. Good luck

 

[sepiareverb]

I agree it's reticulation. Not that easy to get it to happen with modern films, but that is exactly what it looks like on tri-x I developed in the early 80s.

How long do you wash?

 

[Jhausler]

Thanks Shac and everyone else. I checked out the strip with a 50 (a very cool trick!) and yeah.. those lines are totally on the negative. It's even by the sprocket holes on those frames.

I wash for maybe 5-10 minutes. I usually dunk the spools up and down in the tank for about a minute then do it again with new water. If i let it sit and clean up my work area, then it'll go longer.

 

[Shac]

Assuming it's reticulation - the cause is a change in temperature between any of the "baths" the film is immersed in. The solution is to keep your developer, stop bath, fixer and wash water at the same temperature throughout.
I fill up a 3-5 gallon pail with water at my desired temperature, use this to make up the developer and fixer solutions. I don't use a stop bath - just this water, and I follow the Ilford recommendation for washing using the same water from the pail.
The Ilford wash system is fill the tank with water and make 5 inversions, empty, refill and 10 inversions, empty and fill and a final 20 inversions - that's it