sleepyhead
Well-known
John, (sorry to get off topic Bill), perhaps if you can identify a people-related project that means something to you and to the people being photographed (for example, a theme on street performers) then you'll get satisfaction and not feel like you're meddling. I know you didn't ask for my advice, but I hope you don't mind me giving it.
cz23
-
Yaron, thanks. I PMed you, lest we steer Bill's thread further off course. - John
Kevcaster
Well-known
lynnb
Veteran
It depends a bit on what camera I'm using. Mostly I'm after candid street pictures so most times I don't ask first as there's usually no time for that, and also asking would change the moment and interaction, and I wouldn't get the picture I'm after.
With RFs like XA and M4 and also scale cameras like the Rollei 35 I scale focus and preset exposure, often shooting from the hip so I don't disturb the flow. Shutter speed while walking is often 1/500 to avoid blur; stationary I tend towards 1/60-1/125. I mainly use iso400 film so I can usually use f8-f16 to avoid mis-focus. Same technique for MF film SLRs.
in the past year I've also been using a Nikon 1 V1 with auto-iso, shutter priority and AF face recognition and subject motion tracking. Set this way it's a very good street shooter. Sometimes I use burst mode and deal with the editing later. The files are very film-like.
With RFs like XA and M4 and also scale cameras like the Rollei 35 I scale focus and preset exposure, often shooting from the hip so I don't disturb the flow. Shutter speed while walking is often 1/500 to avoid blur; stationary I tend towards 1/60-1/125. I mainly use iso400 film so I can usually use f8-f16 to avoid mis-focus. Same technique for MF film SLRs.
in the past year I've also been using a Nikon 1 V1 with auto-iso, shutter priority and AF face recognition and subject motion tracking. Set this way it's a very good street shooter. Sometimes I use burst mode and deal with the editing later. The files are very film-like.
Bill Pierce
Well-known
The way I focus my camera when street shooting is changing. For many years I have simply scale focused. I’m a good guesser and not having to focus before every shot increased my yield of interesting moments. But the truth is, a good digital image is sharper and thus more critical of slight focusing errors than my old standby of Tri-X pushed to EI 1200. The fact that my focus is not spot on is more obvious, especially in the large prints that are easy to produce with a large inkjet printer. Right now I’m vacillating between scale focusing and the slightly delayed shutter release of autofocus. It’s a bit of a quandary, and any thoughts that you have towards solving this quandary would be most appreciated.
RichL
Well-known
Bill Seems to me it really depends on what you are (primarily) shooting. If you're looking for fleeting gestures then scale focus is going to be the way to go. If the idea is the juxtaposition of crowds, building, vehicles or whatever then digital delay would have little affect.
jky
Well-known
I don't ask, but I'm not hiding the fact that I'm taking pictures. I really like to capture people in their environment so I'm not too in-your-face.
High ISO even in daylight (not uncommon for me to be on iso800 in the bright of day); scale focus or AF depending on the camera.
High ISO even in daylight (not uncommon for me to be on iso800 in the bright of day); scale focus or AF depending on the camera.
peterm1
Veteran
I like photos to be candid. I also like people in my photos to either look interesting of themselves, or be doing something interesting or at least to be in an interesting position / relationship to each other, so the photo has some interest. All that means not asking permission. Mostly I like to shoot with a DSLR and a longer lens as it means I can get a shot without being in their face, which usually ruins the shot as people react to it. It also means having the ability to separate the background through shallow depth of field. I do find that there is a disadvantage to this as a large DSLR (like my D700) is a big camera which attracts attention especially with a larger lens out front. I will also shoot with a small digital camera like a Sony NEX or an M43 camera when carrying a large camera is not an option. BTW it is best to shoot people when they are engaged in doing something or talking to someone. This makes it more interesting and prevents them from focusing on what I am doing.
To be honest I still do not feel entirely comfortable shooting people candidly as it is something of an intrusion no matter what the legalities of the situation are. We should all understand and respect that reality. Certainly if someone catches my eye after I have shot and its obvious I have photographed them I will make a point of giving a reassuring smile and nod. If they catch my eye before making the shot and they signal by expression or otherwise they do not wish to be photographed I respect that and do not take the shot. I must admit however that sometimes when having taken a shot if someone looks in my direction quizzically I will behave as if I am still setting up to take the shot so as not to disturb them. For example if I am shooting a wide group not a specific person I might feel justified in making the image even though someone who might be incidentally captured in it has realized that I may have photographed them as part of that wider shot. Most people do not mind though so each case has to be judged at the time.
To be honest I still do not feel entirely comfortable shooting people candidly as it is something of an intrusion no matter what the legalities of the situation are. We should all understand and respect that reality. Certainly if someone catches my eye after I have shot and its obvious I have photographed them I will make a point of giving a reassuring smile and nod. If they catch my eye before making the shot and they signal by expression or otherwise they do not wish to be photographed I respect that and do not take the shot. I must admit however that sometimes when having taken a shot if someone looks in my direction quizzically I will behave as if I am still setting up to take the shot so as not to disturb them. For example if I am shooting a wide group not a specific person I might feel justified in making the image even though someone who might be incidentally captured in it has realized that I may have photographed them as part of that wider shot. Most people do not mind though so each case has to be judged at the time.
BlackXList
Well-known
I use a mixture of SLR and compact.
For some reason, I seem to work better with compacts shooting either 28mm or 35mm, I just get better results than I do with an SLR.
50mm, is almost always on an SLR though, and I rarely go longer on the street.
28 - 35mm if I try with an SLR I seem to attract attention, but with the 50 I can be just as close and people take less notice, (whether this is just my perception, I'm unsure, but it's influenced how I shoot).
I have both AF & MF options, but it's the AF gear that goes out the most.
Usually candid, although I will ask if necessary, I do accept that they're going to provide very different types of photo though.
My starting point on SLR is meter off the pavement (it's not medium grey, but it tends to be consistent in tone) Av and get around f5.6 and 125th or above, obviously with high ISO abilities I have plenty of space to change this as needed, but that's my starting point.
More difficult to answer with compacts, because of the effect differing sensor sizes, smaller sensor sizes I can take advantage of the inherently larger DOF and open up the lens/raise ISO to get shutter speeds up if I need to without going razor thin.
I've yet to really find street shots that the RX100 has struggled with, day or night, and I've just bought a GR, so I'm looking forward to putting that through it's paces.
For some reason, I seem to work better with compacts shooting either 28mm or 35mm, I just get better results than I do with an SLR.
50mm, is almost always on an SLR though, and I rarely go longer on the street.
28 - 35mm if I try with an SLR I seem to attract attention, but with the 50 I can be just as close and people take less notice, (whether this is just my perception, I'm unsure, but it's influenced how I shoot).
I have both AF & MF options, but it's the AF gear that goes out the most.
Usually candid, although I will ask if necessary, I do accept that they're going to provide very different types of photo though.
My starting point on SLR is meter off the pavement (it's not medium grey, but it tends to be consistent in tone) Av and get around f5.6 and 125th or above, obviously with high ISO abilities I have plenty of space to change this as needed, but that's my starting point.
More difficult to answer with compacts, because of the effect differing sensor sizes, smaller sensor sizes I can take advantage of the inherently larger DOF and open up the lens/raise ISO to get shutter speeds up if I need to without going razor thin.
I've yet to really find street shots that the RX100 has struggled with, day or night, and I've just bought a GR, so I'm looking forward to putting that through it's paces.
nikon_sam
Shooter of Film...
I've been using either a Yashicamat 124g or Mamiya m645 for street shooting so I'm not really hiding what I'm doing...I'll usually lean against a street lamp/post find my subject (building, person or whatever) frame, focus then shoot...sometimes I lean on a corner building or end up in the street...if I stay there for some time people don't really pay too much attention to what I'm doing...if I've been there for a few minutes the people walking by have no idea how long I've been there so it doesn't seem odd and they just walk by...
I'll meter beforehand so the camera is set...unless the light changes I'm good to go...
I also carry several lenses so my viewing can change according to what's in the bag...
Permission to shoot depends on what I'm shooting...sometimes I give the subject a look and gesture to the camera...I can tell by their response if it's okay to shoot...sometimes I just shoot...it's all in how things feel while I'm doing it...
I'll meter beforehand so the camera is set...unless the light changes I'm good to go...
I also carry several lenses so my viewing can change according to what's in the bag...
Permission to shoot depends on what I'm shooting...sometimes I give the subject a look and gesture to the camera...I can tell by their response if it's okay to shoot...sometimes I just shoot...it's all in how things feel while I'm doing it...
DNG
Film Friendly
I use a small f/stop, f/16 to f/8
Auto ISO, 200-6400, with the slowest speed before the kicks it up being 1/250 to 1/400
I shoot in Manual mode using the widest DoF for any given f/stop
I also use 3 lenses..... my Fuji 18mm f/2, my Nikon 24mm f/2.8 Ais, or my Fuji XF 35mm f/1.4
(for a FoV of 28mm, 35mm or 50mm respectively) But, I only take one lens with me,
so, I shoot with my lens of the day.
I also shoot RAW, but with a B&W LCD/EFV
I shoot: Eye Level, and Waist Level.. just depends on each photo. I also shooting with a remote, so my camera hangs from a neck strap for that at waist level.
I don't ask, Candid all the way!
Auto ISO, 200-6400, with the slowest speed before the kicks it up being 1/250 to 1/400
I shoot in Manual mode using the widest DoF for any given f/stop
I also use 3 lenses..... my Fuji 18mm f/2, my Nikon 24mm f/2.8 Ais, or my Fuji XF 35mm f/1.4
(for a FoV of 28mm, 35mm or 50mm respectively) But, I only take one lens with me,
so, I shoot with my lens of the day.
I also shoot RAW, but with a B&W LCD/EFV
I shoot: Eye Level, and Waist Level.. just depends on each photo. I also shooting with a remote, so my camera hangs from a neck strap for that at waist level.
I don't ask, Candid all the way!
rogue_designer
Reciprocity Failure
Film or digital, usually a 35mm equivalent (Canon P or Fuji XPro1). Aperture priority (or manual), at about f5.6 - a bit of depth of field, but I still need to do my part. ASA 320-800, unless I deliberately want to play with selective focus.
Prefocus most of the time, and only compose quickly in viewfinder. Camera in hand, neck strap wrapped around my wrist.
I shoot almost exclusively candids. I sometimes ask after the fact, situation dependent.
Prefocus most of the time, and only compose quickly in viewfinder. Camera in hand, neck strap wrapped around my wrist.
I shoot almost exclusively candids. I sometimes ask after the fact, situation dependent.
SausalitoDog
Well-known
Bill, the dilemma on AF vs pre-focus has always been interesting to me. I switch back and forth from day to day.
One feature on the fuji x100 series (which has very fast AF) is to set the camera to manual and then use the press of the command dial to give you a quick focus lock. The advantage of this is to take the guessing out of the prefocus and allow you to do it without looking...and then you still have the speed advantage of not having to wait at all for the camera to refocus or do the initial focus. I'm "fair" at guess distance but many digital cameras do not have distance scales on the lens, only in the VF and they are not known in the VF to be tremendously accurate (I guess over time one might get to know the foibles well enough to judge but I don't think that is ideal).
Cheers,
Tom
One feature on the fuji x100 series (which has very fast AF) is to set the camera to manual and then use the press of the command dial to give you a quick focus lock. The advantage of this is to take the guessing out of the prefocus and allow you to do it without looking...and then you still have the speed advantage of not having to wait at all for the camera to refocus or do the initial focus. I'm "fair" at guess distance but many digital cameras do not have distance scales on the lens, only in the VF and they are not known in the VF to be tremendously accurate (I guess over time one might get to know the foibles well enough to judge but I don't think that is ideal).
Cheers,
Tom
JohnBeeching
Well-known
Dear All,
I have been shooting on the street for some years, and have never asked - I am quick, discreet and have a ready smile, but mostly people don't notice me. Most of this time I used an M6 with a 35mm lens pre-focused to 2 to 3 m. The first two photos are with this combination. Latterly, I have been using a Fuji X-Pro1, which, in terms of focussing I find more cumbersome, though I like the auto ISO. My best solution is to use manual focus combined with back-button focusing. The third and fourth photos are taken with this combination on the 35mm lens at f1.4.
John
I have been shooting on the street for some years, and have never asked - I am quick, discreet and have a ready smile, but mostly people don't notice me. Most of this time I used an M6 with a 35mm lens pre-focused to 2 to 3 m. The first two photos are with this combination. Latterly, I have been using a Fuji X-Pro1, which, in terms of focussing I find more cumbersome, though I like the auto ISO. My best solution is to use manual focus combined with back-button focusing. The third and fourth photos are taken with this combination on the 35mm lens at f1.4.
John
OurManInTangier
An Undesirable
I'm not sure if it's just me, but the final three images won't show up on my screen John
JohnBeeching
Well-known
Let's try again!
http://johnbeeching.com/westend/content/20141030-193325-Edit_large.html
http://johnbeeching.com/westend/content/20141030-193325-Edit_large.html
For some reason, the latter two won't work. So, the URLs instead.
http://johnbeeching.com/westend/content/20141030-193325-Edit_large.html
http://johnbeeching.com/westend/content/20141030-193325-Edit_large.html
For some reason, the latter two won't work. So, the URLs instead.
BlackXList
Well-known
My take on the AF/MF/Prefocus distinction.
I have several mf only bodies which I use because I like the images they give me, and with a bit of practice focusing speeds up but I can't focus faster and/or adjust focus faster than good AF.
Prefocusing is something I cant seem to get comfortable with, I feel like I'm missing out part of the process.
I have several mf only bodies which I use because I like the images they give me, and with a bit of practice focusing speeds up but I can't focus faster and/or adjust focus faster than good AF.
Prefocusing is something I cant seem to get comfortable with, I feel like I'm missing out part of the process.
MikeDimit
Established
I shoot both digital and film. Never asked for permission. Never have problems but once - an old man, angry to all and everything, started a conversation about not being photographed. Usually I shoot with one gesture . I do not point with a camera toward a person waiting the moment to happen. If I did not saw the picture before raising the camera I keep it down. that simple. The auto focus lags me a bit but that is "terms of trade". If the moment lasts longer I go into conversation and usually it is a very pleasant one. May be because I do like conversations?!?
kbg32
neo-romanticist
Doesn't matter film or digital, as long as I have a 28mm POV, sometimes 21mm. My technique, with greater success now, has been the same for 35 years. I usually use hyperfocal distance, compensating as the light changes, or in the case of more recent camera technology, rely on almost instantaneous focus, exposure, and capture.
I usually don't ask, but smile, or make a brief comment if the person notices, like, "Like your hat!". I've only been accosted once and I didn't even take the person's picture! I was going to, but the little voice inside me said, "No, not now." The person saw I was holding a camera as I walked by and grabbed my arm, not letting go. Luckily there was a policeman nearby....
I usually don't ask, but smile, or make a brief comment if the person notices, like, "Like your hat!". I've only been accosted once and I didn't even take the person's picture! I was going to, but the little voice inside me said, "No, not now." The person saw I was holding a camera as I walked by and grabbed my arm, not letting go. Luckily there was a policeman nearby....
