Stripped thread

[e_asphyx]

What works best? Thread locking glue? Superglue? Epoxy? Just general thoughts. There must be an established protocol among technicians.

 

[View Range]

It depends on what is stripped. If it is possible, the threads should be cut to the next size. You can only use glue if you never want to take this apart again.

If you are serious and can't thread or make new parts yourself, send the equipment to SK Grimes in Rhode Island who can properly repair it. SK Grimes is very affordable because of their experience and tooling.

 

[e_asphyx]

It depends on what is stripped. If it is possible, the threads should be cut to the next size. You can only use glue if you never want to take this apart again.

If you are serious and can't thread or make new parts yourself, send the equipment to SK Grimes in Rhode Island who can properly repair it. SK Grimes is very affordable because of their experience and tooling.

I have stripped two of them, one on the female side and one on the bolt. I'm too far away, in Bulgaria. I don't think it worth sending the camera to US.

Photo for reference: https://imgur.com/a/FsCls8K

 

[Sarcophilus Harrisii]

Whilst I am quite fond of Exaktas, they have their faults, to be sure, and these can include Ihagee having a penchant for using fasteners with smaller sized threads than other makers, and occasionally employing materials that are only just good enough. As a result it can be easier to strip threads in these than many other types of German camera. (Much easier, if a previous person has been ham-fisted).

Thus, I had occasion to repair two stripped threads for the bayonet mount of a Varex IIa early this year. Four screws attach the lens bayonet ring to the camera. (These screws are a case in point apropos my remark about Ihagee and undersized threads. They'll manage a standard lens or medium weight telephoto OK. Hanging a 300—400mm monster from Eg. Meyer off them, on the other hand, is definitely above their pay grade).

I remedied this by carefully filling the stripped thread holes with JB Weld, after which I immediately compressed the freshly mixed and still malleable epoxy from both ends of each thread to eliminate air pockets. After leaving it to fully cure for some days, I drilled new holes into the epoxy by hand with a pin vise and miniature drill bit, before tapping new metric threads of the original size into the epoxy. Given the metal into which the threads were originally tapped during manufacture is slightly on the cheesy side anyway, the epoxy repair is probably about as strong as it was to start with. There's a film in the camera involved now, and it's working fine.

 

[Sarcophilus Harrisii]

What sort of TLR is that?

 

[BillBingham2]

Any chance to find a PARTS camera (non-functional but with great screws......)?

B2 (;->

 

[e_asphyx]

What sort of TLR is that?

Yashica D. BTW I think I'm going to use epoxy because there is a room for a glue blob to form. Only head is a working surface.

 

[David Hughes]

Don't use glue, use a thread locker. LocTite make one used by gun shooters when I was a lad on the trigger pressure screw thread. Easily put on and easily unscrewed if need be. I just hope they still make it.


Regards, David

 

[BillBingham2]

Don't use glue......I just hope they still make it.


Regards, David

They do. I think Blue is tight but removable, Red is almost for ever. Not sure what's available on the other side of the pond.

B2 (;->

 

[Livesteamer]

The JB weld solution sounds good. Blue Locktite can be romoved. Red Locktite can be removed but must be heated with a torch first.
Good Luck.


Joe