stripping an m3

have fun with a rather tedious process.. it's not hard, but it'll take a little while.. the end result is well worth it, tho
 
I've done it on 2 cameras, an M2 and M3. I suggest the dry method, not the paint remover method. It just takes a bit of patience and time. Try using a sharpened bamboo chopstick. If that is not working on certain parts, then move to a penknife. A 1/4 inch wide wood chisel would work too, but do as much as you can with the bamboo.
 
Brian Sweeney said:
How bad is the Vulcanite? Can it be patched?

Is the Summicron off to the shop yet?


it's actually pretty good, just a tiny piece missing by the side where it attaches to the baseplate (where i grab it)

the summicron is still here.
essex emailed me today and said it would cost money and that it would not be 100% clean. i had to email again for an actual quote.

gerry in canada is off till monday and i was told he will call me then.
i would prefer keeping it in country just because everything will be quicker and he has a great rep here.
joe
 
It's just a tiny little chip! Patch it.

A good Vulcanite lasts pretty long, not forever. Not as long as the covering on the Nikon S2.

But a good Polyester lasts forever...
 
I agree with FrankS. I used the knife method to remove the vulcanite off my FED 2. It worked really fast, and clean. Use great caution when using the knife. The knife can slip at times and cut you pretty good if you're not careful.
 
I found the easiest thing to us on the FSU ones I have done is a cheap set of gouges/chisels sold at hobby stores. My set were about $5 and using them maeans there is less chance of slipping.

Kim
 
Joe, I wrote this in another thread as well: a little warming makes the voulcanite more brittle. The volcanite on my M2 dropped off when it had been in the sun in teh conservatory for some time.

For the rest: dry method, careful with knives but it works.

Rob.
 
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