Stuck, and need some help!

[jaypolaski]

Okay, I dove in, and opened the hood on the Kiev... easy as pie, thought I dare say that the screws are both tiny, and have slots that aren't centered, which was a bit awkward, if nothing else. If ound the light seal on top of the prism just sitting there, with the glue not even attached, which I promptly relaced with the innards of a film paper bag. I also, just to be on the safe side, added the closed cell foam to the film advance sprocket, and the baffle at the rangefinder looked fine. I also noted oddly enough, that there was NO baffle under the viewfinder window, and chalked that up to late desing. Closing the camera back up, I rejoiced after my first repair, and ran outside to burn a roll of film to check. I ran down to my local lab to have it developed, and the light leak IS STILL THERE!!! I'm at a loss now...I'm thinking of adding a piece if the foam to under the viewfinder window, but it doesn't look like that's where the leak is coming from. The leak forms a straight line from before the sprocket holes, gets wider and more intense where the actual frame starts, and travels downward, losing width and intensity to the other side of the film where it reaches the other film sprocket holes. I;m wondering if there is a problem with the back cover itself, and maybe I needed to change the light seals there as well, or if the film pressure plate wasn't tight enough.

I could really use some hlep on this, and any advice would be greatly appreciated. I'd love to do this myself, and not have to send it out...I pad more than I should for the body as it is, and even went out and bought a new meter so I could go shooting 😉 Not that I don;t love my Nikon, but street work is SO much easier with a rangefinder.

Thanks in advance.

 

[FrankS]

When you are trying to analyse where the light may be coming from, remember that the image is upside down in the camera. So, if the light leak comes from the top of the image, that means the light is coming in from the bottom of the camera. Good luck!

 

[Jon Goodman]

Is there any way you can scan an image and show it? With that, I may be able to point you to a more precise spot in the camera. I am presuming you are using color C-41 film...if not, that is the best to use when studying light leaks. A whitish to grayish leak damage area almost always means light is striking the front surface of the film. A colored (yellowish, reddish, orange-like) leak damage area almost always means light is striking the back side of the film.
Jon

 

[varjag]

Also, check the swivel latches at the bottom of the cover. Try using a cassette instead of takeup spool and see if the problem persists or is as strongly manifested.

 

[varjag]

Does the leak looks like this one?

http://www.boblycat.org/gallery/Random-street/two_ages2_640

(The line, not the edges which is an enlarger vignetting artifact).

 

[captainslack]

Post a pic showing what the leak looks like. That'll help the experts a lot more than a description. You can attach a pic by using the Manage Attachments button at the bottom of the Post Reply screen.

Also, order one of Jon Goodman's light seal kits. That'll help you immensely.

 

[RJBender]

Is the lens loose in the bayonet mount?
http://www3.telus.net/public/kaylalyn/loose inner lens mount.html

R.J.

 

[jaypolaski]

PROBLEM SOLVED!!!!

Alright, I haven't found THIS problem yet in any place I've looked, but it's a good one to keep in mind. Apparently, the person using the camera before me tried to use the PC socket, and pushed it back inside tha camera under the black housing, causing the casting to rise up. This allowed light to leak in straight from the front of the body, and made the lines. I opened the casting, and pushed the PC socket back in, threw in some fresh electrical tape, and put the cover back on. GOOD AS NEW...wait...READY TO SHOOT (I've heard a bunch about what good as new means from these places😉)

Thanks again everyone, this place is WONDERFUL!!!!