naruto
GASitis.. finally cured?
So, I have managed to bulk roll a bunch of stuff, into assorted cartridges of 100/200/400, over the last year, and shoot a majority of the rolls. However, I am now left over with 12 assorted rolls with no markings on the canisters. 
There are only 3 possible types of film in the canisters:
1. TriX
2. APX 100
3. APX 400
So, can you help me come up with a strategy to shoot all the film at some E.I. and develop it in Rodinal to get acceptable results? I also have XTOL if it helps.
BTW, 6 of the rolls have a brownish backing and the rest have grey backing. I assume the brownish back rolls are APX 100/Arista 100?
Yes, I do have an order of reloadable cartridges coming in from B&H where I can mark the ISO.
Thanks
There are only 3 possible types of film in the canisters:
1. TriX
2. APX 100
3. APX 400
So, can you help me come up with a strategy to shoot all the film at some E.I. and develop it in Rodinal to get acceptable results? I also have XTOL if it helps.
BTW, 6 of the rolls have a brownish backing and the rest have grey backing. I assume the brownish back rolls are APX 100/Arista 100?
Yes, I do have an order of reloadable cartridges coming in from B&H where I can mark the ISO.
Thanks
payasam
a.k.a. Mukul Dube
24 DIN and small paper stickers.
funkpilz
Well-known
I would suggest 200 ISO and stand development.
MartinP
Veteran
Looking at what I have here, Tri-X has a more purple-grey backing than the APX400, while the APX100 is a very different darker brown-grey. My couple of rolls of Tri-X are from a twenty year old bulk-roll tin which I rediscovered after a house move, so it may not be representative of fresh film !
johannielscom
Snorting silver salts
My thoughts excactly.
Rodinal 1:100 gets just about everything right. 200ASA is one stop off, the shots will still be usable, definitely if Rodinal 1:100 stand is used.
naruto
GASitis.. finally cured?
@Mukul: Yes, I have learnt my lesson.
@funkpilz: The thought did cross my mind.
@MartinP: Thanks a lot. So, that confirms it the brownish backing rolls are APX100. Yes, some of the grey backing rolls are a bit purplish. I think those might be TriX. But, I think I can shoot both at EI 200~250 and develop it in Rodinal 1+50 for 10/11 mins.
@Johan: Thanks. I'll try that for the grey backing rolls. The brown ones might be APX100 as corroborated by MartinP.
@funkpilz: The thought did cross my mind.
@MartinP: Thanks a lot. So, that confirms it the brownish backing rolls are APX100. Yes, some of the grey backing rolls are a bit purplish. I think those might be TriX. But, I think I can shoot both at EI 200~250 and develop it in Rodinal 1+50 for 10/11 mins.
@Johan: Thanks. I'll try that for the grey backing rolls. The brown ones might be APX100 as corroborated by MartinP.
DNG
Film Friendly
+1 here also...
You'll get usable negatives from all films.. may need a little contrast adjustment in printing or editing.. but not overly so...
JohnTF
Veteran
More simple and precise perhaps, clip a bit of the film in the darkroom, develop for 1 or 2 minutes in a tray of Neutol, or Dektol, then read the edge markings after the film clears in the fix. Obviously make sure you pull some unexposed film out before you clip, watch your fingers.
I had done the same, film turned out to be TMY. ;-)
Regards, John
I had done the same, film turned out to be TMY. ;-)
Regards, John
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naruto
GASitis.. finally cured?
@DNG: will try it for a couple of rolls
@John: I don't have either Neutol or Dektol. Any other chemical?
@John: I don't have either Neutol or Dektol. Any other chemical?
JohnTF
Veteran
Any basic developer, but paper developers are very fast so you do not have time to be bored in the dark too long, us old timers probably did tray development of film at one time or another, when I was a kid we often developed sheet film in Dektol, you had to be quick, ;-). I used Neutol for sheets of ortho shot in pinhole cameras, and could use normal paper safelights.
I would use stock concentration to speed things up, probably not a critical time, if you are doing more than one at a time, either notch them or mark them for ID. You need to develop long enough to produce enough gamma for ID.
Since it is such a small piece, almost anything can serve as trays if you do not have a darkroom for printing, you can use your film fix, so almost any developer will work, all you need is an id on the edge printing.
Someone gave me a bulk loader with TMY in it, which is how I came up with this -- after trying to see the colors, etc. The color of the film sticking out of the loader changes with exposure to light. I notice the color of the films and their bases, but just never paid much attention to ID from that alone.
This will give you the exact film.
Regards, John
I would use stock concentration to speed things up, probably not a critical time, if you are doing more than one at a time, either notch them or mark them for ID. You need to develop long enough to produce enough gamma for ID.
Since it is such a small piece, almost anything can serve as trays if you do not have a darkroom for printing, you can use your film fix, so almost any developer will work, all you need is an id on the edge printing.
Someone gave me a bulk loader with TMY in it, which is how I came up with this -- after trying to see the colors, etc. The color of the film sticking out of the loader changes with exposure to light. I notice the color of the films and their bases, but just never paid much attention to ID from that alone.
This will give you the exact film.
Regards, John
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