Summilux 50/1.4 ASPH vs pre-asph on Leica M9. Worth to change?

[Alex Krasotkin]

Guys,

1) what is basically the difference and worth it to change my silver Summilux 50/1.4 pre-asph last version for ASPH version?
2) Did someone ever make comparison between these 2 versions?
3) Will I get better results (spot on focus and better sharpness) at f/1.4 on M9 with ASPH. What will I loose? Signature?
4) what is approx fair price difference between these 2 versions in silver?

I used 50/1.4 pre-asph last version for a few years was very happy with results on M7 and M6. I still keep my M6 together with Leica M9.

many thanks for your thoughts,
Alex

 

[Steve Bellayr]

There are a number of internet sites that have done the comparison, including I. Puts. As I recall there was no advantage of the pre-asp Summilux to the Summicron but the new Summilux is allegedly fantastic. I am on an endless waiting list for the new Summilux. I have not made any comparisons but that is what I have read.

 

[Ronald M]

Used both and they are not in the same league even.

 

[peter_n]

I have both and they are just different lenses, at least on film. The ASPH is a great lens in terms of performance but can show that clinical look that many of the ASPH lenses have. It's a very good lens but my personal preference is for the last version pre-ASPH both in terms of its rendering and its handling. The ASPH after several years of use is still a bit tight at the close focus end where the floating element gets moved.

My use of these two lenses is the pre-ASPH for people especially close-ups, and the ASPH for shots that require detail and sharpness such as architecture and long distance shots. Also I use it on a 24 megapixel digital body where it shines and the crops from it are quite amazing.

I would not give up your pre-ASPH for the ASPH. You have a silver chrome copy which is brass and I have the black paint version also brass. You won't find an ASPH lens that will handle as well as your current lens, so see if you can can swing keeping the pre-ASPH and save for the ASPH and then take your time over choosing between them. I'm keeping both.

 

[Roger Hicks]

What differences are you looking for in your pictures?

Cheers,

R.

 

[Damaso]

There are large differences in terms of price and image description. I happen to like the pre-asph look but many people prefer the razor sharpness of the asph lenses.

 

[ramosa]

These two lenses are both excellent, but render quite differently. It depends on what look you like. On digital, I prefer the rendering of the pre-asph Lux), as I find the asph version's rendering somewhat clinical (as has been noted above). But it comes down to personal taste. I had the Lux asph, but sold it to get a pre-asph Cron.

 

[Marc G.]

I'm one of those persons who prefers the performance of the aspherical. and it has character too. it's razor sharp at all apertures on film but the bokeh is second to none (taste wise...) and the sharp parts really stand out in the images. I really love it and the chrome brass version gives you a great feel too. definitely the best lens for me.

as people above said... if you want the smoothest bokeh and razor sharp in-focus parts (peaking at f/4-f/5.6 but even at 1.4 extremely sharp) then thats the lens.

the downsides are the higher cost, about 500g weight for the chrome version (but I'm willing to carry that chunk of glass everywhere) and 350g for black paint, a slightly stiffer focus at first.

the reason I say at first is that after some months of usage my version focuses just as smooth as the other lenses I've tried and as smooth as my 28 elmarit asph

 

[Alex Krasotkin]

Guys, many thaks for your thoughts and advises. It is really valuable. I will keep pre-asph version for the time being and enjoy it on my M6 as well.

 

[icebear]

Alex,
to get the most out of your lens(es) on the M9, have your M9 checked along with the lenses. I had a noct' and a 2/90 (pre asph.) with slight back focus issues. I had them 6-bit coded and matched to the M9. The sensor position is adjustable, I bought mine used and the sensor was off by 20 microns acc to the Leica tech. After that they both focus spot on.

So you have two parts of the camera that can potentially be out of the perfect position. If the camera's RF and sensor are perfect and the lenses are adjusted accordingly, you will be able to get to the limit what your lenses are capable of.
Your 'lux might be a stellar performer after that adjustment.