Sunny 16/1600 Film

This would be ever so much simpler if you developed the film yourself. That way you could do a roll or two to test, then tailor the development to the look that you prefer.

I sent my film out for years and years. It always looked pretty good to me, but at age 60 I decided to try developing it myself. It didn't take much money to buy the tank, reels, thermometer, chemicals, etc.

My first roll worked great, and it was amazing how much money was saved compared to sending the film out. What was even more amazing was how much better I did compared to the lab! It really is easy, and you quickly learn that experimenting with different films and developers allows you to fine tune things and get them exactly like you want them. Just your agitation scheme can give you a different look.

After learning this, printing in the darkroom (or bathroom, or bedroom) was dead simple.
 
I develop, scan or print by myself. In 2017 to 2018 months I used same as OP film @1600, @3200. During day light hours I used it f16, f11 1/500, 1/1000.

It is hard to accept once you are back from digital to bw film, but the bw film comparing to digital is hard to overexpose.

To support me mentally on earlier stage I used x2, x4 contrast filters to drop ISO.
But in reality it didn't make significant difference with clean, protective filter.
 
Sadly on my scanner, Canonscan overexposed dense negs do not get scanned!
Scanning poor substitute to projection printing.
Negs. totally ignored by scanner, print beautifully..
I am at present using 100 speed BW.
Sharp and clear, fun to use wider apertures or slow speeds..
A friend of mine shoots 21 and 28 mm lenses at small apertures, using
the hyper-focal distance method.
It's a bad idea!
Depth of field scales are for 5x7" print ! :bang:
The larger the print, one sees less of depth of field..
Making a RF into a point and shoot "Brownie" a poor substitute for use of a great camera.
 
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