Landberg
Well-known
Hi!
I shoot a lot at iso 1600. I use a leica and is therefore limited to 1/1000 of a second and f/16. If i follow the sunny 16 at iso 1600 the settings would be 1/1600 of a second, but thats not possible. So now to my question, if i shoot at f/16 and 1/1000 of a second in bright sunlight will the photo be to over exposed to use? Isn't it just 1 stop over? or a half stop?
Help me with some advice!
I shoot a lot at iso 1600. I use a leica and is therefore limited to 1/1000 of a second and f/16. If i follow the sunny 16 at iso 1600 the settings would be 1/1600 of a second, but thats not possible. So now to my question, if i shoot at f/16 and 1/1000 of a second in bright sunlight will the photo be to over exposed to use? Isn't it just 1 stop over? or a half stop?
Help me with some advice!
Dwig
Well-known
In theory, it is 2/3 stop overexposed. In practice, it will be a bit more or a bit less given the limits of shutter accuracy.
This would significantly overexpose any transparency file, but would be unnoticeable on any modern color negative film. On B&W films, it would probably result in useable negatives, though they would be denser than normal and my suffer additional highlight detail loss. YMMV, or more likely YMWV.
Richard G
Veteran
Why 1600 ISO with these constraints? I am presuming this is a digital Leica, or you have a stash of Delta 3200 you're exposing at 1600. If it's black and white film why not use 400 and push to 800 if you need the speed. If it's a digital Leica the overexposure in bright sun is going to be killing, blowing the highlights. You could stick to lenses with f22, but that is not a good aperture to be using deliberately if you can avoid it owing to diffraction issues, maybe.
Landberg
Well-known
I use a film leica and i shoot both day and night and indoors. iso 1600 has been working out the best. But maybe i should try to shoot at 800.
Huss
Veteran
Just use a neutral density filter when you are in bright sunlight.
p.s. I checked your site, nice photos!
p.s. I checked your site, nice photos!
Landberg
Well-known
Thanks! Thats a good tip! 
ktmrider
Well-known
I find the sunny sixteen rule actually gives a bit of underexposure. I usually shoot at 1/ISO plus f11 to f13. A lot of people on this site recommend giving black and white a bit more overexposure then underexposure.
Rob-F
Likes Leicas
Yes, my rule is, "Sunny 11.5"
Yes, agree with Rob-F and KTMrider above, especially in the north country sunny 16 is more like sunny 11... So you should be ok at 1/1000 sec and f/16 as a starting point, then ~3 stops further open for shadow with sky illumination.
mfogiel
Veteran
Have you actually ever tried to make a speed test on your film? Just for fun, shoot the same scene with EI between 50 and 1600, that is up to 5 stops overexposure according to your ei 1600 intended speed. My bet is, EI 200 will come out the best.
Fraser
Well-known
It's normally sunny 5.6 in Scotland!
Sparrow
Veteran
Like Manchester ... one doesn't need a meter, but a rain gauge can come in handy
Sparrow
Veteran
I've measured how bright a clear sky is all over the place ... using a Studio Deluxe with the incident dome pointing straight up ... and found it the same value everywhere I've been
(I use the sky's brightness like a datum value for exposures ... then just count how many stops I'm off from sunny f16 I am ... it sounds more complicated now I've typed it)
MrFujicaman
Well-known
Go buy a ND filter or a #21 orange.
Lauffray
Invisible Cities
I shot 1600 in daylight for a few years, I never really saw a lot of problems even on sunny days, the film is still underexposed (assuming you're pushing).
I'd also say it matters a lot how you develop your negatives after
I'd also say it matters a lot how you develop your negatives after
Dwig
Well-known
The Sunny 16 rule applies in summer and in the country, away from aerial pollution. Most large modern cities require some correction since it is never truly a "clear sunny day". 1/2 stop to 2 stops correction may be necessary.
Roger Hicks
Veteran
Quite. Also northern latitudes.
Also, I wasn't aware that there are any ISO 1600 films left on the market. Ilford Delta 3200 is about ISO 1250 at fastest. At EI 1600 there will be at least 1/3 loss of shadow detail by ISO standards.
A stop or two over will rarely cause any problems. I've been known to shoot Delta 3200 in my Pen W (smallest aperture f/22, fastest speed 1/250) and develop it as for EI 3200 because among the 72 shots there are some low light shots and some in bright sunlight).
The thing is, pos/neg photography is incredibly flexible. If it weren't, half the people who think they understand the Zone System would fall flat on their arses.
Cheers,
R.
airfrogusmc
Veteran
Especially if they didn't do the tests...
Not as much latitude in transparency films as in color negative especially in the upper tones.