Jeremy Z
Well-known
I sized it so that it should print all 15 copies of it on a standard 8.5x11" sheet of paper, and can be laminated with two strips of standard 2" wide clear packing tape. It did when I printed it in Excel, anyway. Then, leave one (or tape it to the back of) each meterless vintage camera you have.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1Ud5vcEKFE7X0vHcGXjUuYhzONKhvWvB2QWooD5Awppo/edit?usp=sharing
I left it open for commenting, but not editing. I think you can copy it and use it as a basis for modified ones, if you want. (please share, if you do!)
I'd like one for low light work, maybe just with ISO 1600 and 3200, but going to lower light levels, if someone wants to try their hand at it. (I'd share this with my Night Trips Facebook Group)
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1Ud5vcEKFE7X0vHcGXjUuYhzONKhvWvB2QWooD5Awppo/edit?usp=sharing
I left it open for commenting, but not editing. I think you can copy it and use it as a basis for modified ones, if you want. (please share, if you do!)
I'd like one for low light work, maybe just with ISO 1600 and 3200, but going to lower light levels, if someone wants to try their hand at it. (I'd share this with my Night Trips Facebook Group)
Shac
Well-known
Thank you Jeremy
charjohncarter
Veteran
I used to tape 'Sunny 16' on the bottom of my cameras, but this is better. Thank you very much.
Doug A
Well-known
Assuming that the lighting conditions are intended to represents steps of one stop, which is standard for Sunny 16 tables, there are some inconsistencies here. For example, the first two cells in the top row are identical and the last two cells are two stops apart. There are issues with the second row too.
The Sunny 16 table I was given and told to memorize years ago looked like the attached.
Trying to quantify light levels for lower levels is difficult. When I was my school's "sports photographer" my instructions from the newspaper editor were (1) set the aperture to wide open, (2) set the shutter speed to the lowest I could hand hold steadily and (3) try to get the subject into the best available light.
The Sunny 16 table I was given and told to memorize years ago looked like the attached.
Trying to quantify light levels for lower levels is difficult. When I was my school's "sports photographer" my instructions from the newspaper editor were (1) set the aperture to wide open, (2) set the shutter speed to the lowest I could hand hold steadily and (3) try to get the subject into the best available light.
Attachments
seany65
Well-known
Do any sunny 16 tables extend the settings by taking into account the time of day and time of year?
farlymac
PF McFarland
Do any sunny 16 tables extend the settings by taking into account the time of day and time of year?
This is by far the most comprehensive Sunny-16 calculator I've ever seen or used.

Univex Mercury II Back by P F McFarland, on Flickr
Click on the image for larger views.
PF
seany65
Well-known
Thanks for the pic, farlymac.
I had a close-up look at it, and my two braincells started to ache!
I had a close-up look at it, and my two braincells started to ache!
davidswiss
Established
Thankyou for the charts. Can you confirm that f16 should stay at hazy bright for ISO 100 and 250 ?
I always believed that the aperture setting should descend by 1 stop at a time as the light became less bright.
I always believed that the aperture setting should descend by 1 stop at a time as the light became less bright.
retinax
Well-known
Something slipped in the first two lines.
A lot of info on "sunny 16" including a decent chart here: http://www.fredparker.com/ultexp1.htm
Handy pocket exposure calculator here: https://expomat.tripod.com/
A lot of info on "sunny 16" including a decent chart here: http://www.fredparker.com/ultexp1.htm
Handy pocket exposure calculator here: https://expomat.tripod.com/
Jeremy Z
Well-known
Thanks for the proofread; I fixed those first two rows.Assuming that the lighting conditions are intended to represents steps of one stop, which is standard for Sunny 16 tables, there are some inconsistencies here. For example, the first two cells in the top row are identical and the last two cells are two stops apart. There are issues with the second row too.
That's certainly The Classic, but it leaves us doing calculations in our head. Not complex ones, but it takes a few extra seconds.The Sunny 16 table I was given and told to memorize years ago looked like the attached.
I bought one of these for lower light: https://www.ebay.com/itm/124838963400?ViewItem=&item=124838963400Trying to quantify light levels for lower levels is difficult.
That's good advice, too. Then rely on the film's latitude and darkroom technique to get what you can out of the negative.When I was my school's "sports photographer" my instructions from the newspaper editor were (1) set the aperture to wide open, (2) set the shutter speed to the lowest I could hand hold steadily and (3) try to get the subject into the best available light.
Pastor Chris
Well-known
Thanks for the useful post!
Mr_Flibble
In Tabulas Argenteas Refero
Here's another printable one. I personally like this one a little better than expomat
http://www.squit.co.uk/photo/exposurecalc.html
http://www.squit.co.uk/photo/exposurecalc.html
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