Super Ikonta B 532/16

[telecentricity]

Camera Serial Number

Camera Serial Number

The camera serial number for a Super Ikonta B is embossed on the leather on the back of the case. I think it is written vertically on the left hand side. Maybe there is another location inside the camera with the number but I've never found one. The first letter in the number gives you the approximate year of manufacture. I remember that "A" through "C" is 1936, the other letters follow in more or less alphabetic order. If you can't see it clearly try making a paper rubbing or using strong sidelight.
The camera lens serial number you mentioned (2,xxx,xxx) is different than the camera serial number but suggests a post-war lens.
If you are still stuck on the serial number I can take a picture of mine tonight and show you exactly where it is.
Hope this helps and congratulations on your beautiful camera.
Gary

 

[telecentricity]

Serial Number

Serial Number

Here is a photo of where the camera serial number is located:

If you'll tell me the first letter I can look up the date of manufacture of the camera body. I believe you already know the date of the lens from the other posts.
Cheers,
Gary

 

[Chris Bail]

Here is a photo of where the camera serial number is located:

If you'll tell me the first letter I can look up the date of manufacture of the camera body. I believe you already know the date of the lens from the other posts.
Cheers,
Gary

I certainly appreciate the help. I've found the number on the back cover, and understand why I missed it the first time. It doesn't seem to have nearly enough digits. It appears to be a backwards 3 (E?) followed by 53...that's it. Far to the left of the number, there's a very lightly embossed "H" that doesn't look as if it's part of the serial number.

I'm going to get out the good lenses and take as close a photo as I can manage of it.

 

[Chris Bail]

Here's a close up of the back cover serial number area...I need to find my macro ring for a better resolved photo, but what I see is "H____ε 5 3 "

 

[Chris Bail]

Another view of the serial #

Another view of the serial #

 

[telecentricity]

More info on your Super Ikonta

More info on your Super Ikonta

Chris,
I've found a couple more interesting items about your Super Ikonta:
1. From McKeown's Price Guide: "Lens/shutter housing in black enamel through 1948, chrome after 1948". Also, "Compur Rapid shutter, no sync to 1951". Your shutter is a Compur Rapid in a black housing.
2. From Lens Collector Vade Mecum (p.74): "Some of the lenses for this camera were initially from Jena, owing to production problems in the West, but after 1948 this trade ceased owing to difficulties, and Zeiss production was made up with Xenar lenses from Schneider". Your lens is a Carl Zeiss Jena.
3. My Zeiss camera serial number list from Les Chiffres Cles only goes up to 1943/1944 and the letter "G" is skipped entirely (!).
4. The same source lists the lens serial number (different from the camera body) as made in 1938. I was confused because Zeiss Opton (the post-war West Germany Zeiss) also has a 2,2xx,xxx serial number in the 50's, but yours is Carl Zeiss Jena, not Opton.
Look closely at the photos from literiter's post-war Zeiss-Opton version and you'll see all the differences.
Hope this helps a little. I am still a novice at Zeiss cameras so take all of this with a grain of salt.

Cheers,
Gary

 

[phl0w]

Sorry to revive this thread, but I bought this great Super Ikonta B at a local store and would like to know when it was built. I already found out about the lens thanks to the side mentioned above, but couldn't find information about the body on the web. All I know is that it's between 1937 and '48 because it features the older Compur Rapid shutter housed in black enamel, not chrome.
Here's the s/n: F 56xx

That's the beauty, just a quick pic I took yesterday night:

Information about a more precise year of production appreciated!

 

[oilman930]

The letter F would mean made 1937/8.

Or another way, late 1937 to early 1938.

It looks like a nice camera. Go forth and take pictures!

 

[jnoir]

Mine is a chromed 532/16 with red T Opton Tessar. I don't really like it for color work, but I have had better luck with B&W.

Camera's letter is X, I have always assumed it is from 1953 based on the lens' serial number. Any confirmation on this, now that we are at it ? 😀

 

[phl0w]

Thanks for that! For 35-year-old camera the thing is in tip top shape.

It looks like a nice camera. Go forth and take pictures!

It is! Leather is in top condition, lens is clean, bellow 100% proof, and shutter times are spot on @ all ƒ-stops. It's been never used practically. I was looking for one with an uncoated Tessar, because I'm not that experienced when it comes to repairing cameras, and I figured the uncoated lens is way easier to clean as the need arises.
Shot 2 rolls (TM400, Portra400) right after I bought it to check exposure and the lens - negatives looked alright, will get the prints tomorrow. Plan on using it for B&W, the colour film was out of interest as I really like Portra on 35mm.

 

[oilman930]

X production dates are in the range of September 1952 to October 1952.

 

[jnoir]

Thanks for that, it seems that the production was faster than my calculations.

Does that imply that SI 532/16 with serial number X***** were made for just a couple of months only ? Is the same time used for other letters ? Looks a short period to me, either they were doing lots of cameras by then due to huge demand, or maybe they restarted production serials, or is it just plainly normal .... ?

 

[johannielscom]

Seems that pretty soon I will be the proud owner of a 1937 specimen as well. It will be replacing my Rolleiflexes which I cannot afford to hang onto at the time. I'm kinda looking forward to the uncoated Tessar on this camera for portraits. I love low-contrast-but-sharp shots.

Questions:

• What size filters does the camera take? Screw-in or clip-on type?
• What size lens hood would I need, and again: screw-in or clip-on?
• Anybody that can post shots from this camera to this thread? And pls add a line stating coated or uncoated lens? :angel:
• Mine will come with the dedicated RF-correct close-up attachment for portraits. Does anybody use that too? Show a picture of the result?

 

[literiter]

Questions:

• What size filters does the camera take? Screw-in or clip-on type?
• What size lens hood would I need, and again: screw-in or clip-on?
• Anybody that can post shots from this camera to this thread? And pls add a line stating coated or uncoated lens? :angel:
• Mine will come with the dedicated RF-correct close-up attachment for portraits. Does anybody use that too? Show a picture of the result?

-Filters and hoods on the 532/15 are push on. A good wind, or bump, will take the hood off as quick as a wink. I'll check the size as soon as I'm home later, if no one else comes up with the size.

The hood is a good idea, just be careful.

 

[jnoir]

On mine, 37mm push on. I keep the original ZI yellow filter always on: another good point of this camera, I can store mine with its filter and it closes perfectly. Well thought, that.

And one sample picture (on the negative one can read the writings on the dust of the chair right from the light table, how couldn't I love MF?)

​

taken with this camera. Opton "red T" Tessar.

 

[phl0w]

My first rolls: http://flotografie.smugmug.com/Category/6x6/urban120/25945238_6nrrM6#!i=2154067973&k=8J8WSLM

uncoated Tessar 2.8.

It's not the cleanest lens anymore (1937), so I wanna ask if haze/dust is noticeable in those pictures? I'm a bit uncertain whether to have CLA done to it (quite expensive).

Sorry for the black lines. Not quite sure yet if it's the camera or from scanning. Will know tomorrow with the next 2 rolls.

 

[Platinum RF]

The optical system is fairly easy to clean
1. the front lens element is secured by three set screws, turn to the focus to closest distance to reveal these set screws, dip little acetone to loose it, with caution, screws can be damaged (if you damage it, DAG has these screws for 8-12 dollars a piece)
2. unscrew the front lens element and mark the place they separate
3. use a rubber plug to unscrew the second front lens element
4. folded the camera, use a spanner to unscrew the rare lens group, CAUTION, secure the spanner, DO NOT scratch the lens, very common to see scratched lens element on these works done by shoes repairman.
5. put everything back
6. Adjust focus at infinite: use a ground glass on the film gate, make sure the rangefinder focus on the infinite (distance pole or tree et al), adjust front element until the image on the ground glass in sharp focus. Tight the set screws you are all set.

These Tessar lenses may contain lanthanum, yellow coloring is very common (you do not need to use a yellow filter). I have get great BW image from this camera wide open.

 

[jwanerman]

Zeiss 532/16

Zeiss 532/16

That's the one! Some of these lenses are marked with a red 'T'.

My 532/16 is about 1951 manufacture and has no red T

 

[phl0w]

The optical system is fairly easy to clean
1. the front lens element is secured by three set screws, turn to the focus to closest distance to reveal these set screws, dip little acetone to loose it, with caution, screws can be damaged (if you damage it, DAG has these screws for 8-12 dollars a piece)
2. unscrew the front lens element and mark the place they separate
3. use a rubber plug to unscrew the second front lens element
4. folded the camera, use a spanner to unscrew the rare lens group, CAUTION, secure the spanner, DO NOT scratch the lens, very common to see scratched lens element on these works done by shoes repairman.
5. put everything back
6. Adjust focus at infinite: use a ground glass on the film gate, make sure the rangefinder focus on the infinite (distance pole or tree et al), adjust front element until the image on the ground glass in sharp focus. Tight the set screws you are all set.

These Tessar lenses may contain lanthanum, yellow coloring is very common (you do not need to use a yellow filter). I have get great BW image from this camera wide open.

This is NOT how you clean/adjust a Super Ikonta B 532/16!
The lens assembly and rangefinder are way more complex on the coupled models.
See my thread http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=125395 to get an idea.